SAR arms ST10 or HK USP help

[Impureclient]

I just picked up an ST10 and had a bad day the first day out with it at the range. The gun would fire one round and then the trigger would stick on the second. Eject round, fire a round then stick on second. Both mags did it and my son even tried the ST10 mag in the CZ and it worked in my CZ75 but just didn't stay open after the last round so the mags are out. So basically you fire and if you don't let the trigger go immediately to reset and then try to fire again it makes one click which I would think would be the trigger resetting. On that first click, if you try the trigger again, the trigger just sticks back inside the trigger guard and nothing happens. If you fire and let it go past the first click it makes a second click and only then the trigger resets. I can have an empty gun/no magazine and dry fire and pull the slide back simulating a real shot being fired and it will do the same thing only resetting the trigger on that second click.

So let down from all the great reviews on this gun. Anybody else have that issues with their ST10 or HK USP? I asked in a CZ forum as the SARS were being talked about in there which prompted me to purchase this one. The internals though are pretty much exactly the same in this gun as the USP so I figured it may get more help with that added. I think I have it narrowed down to the trigger bar, disconnect or the catch. If I remove the catch it doesn't function correctly and that second click doesn't happen. I called EAA and was told a gunsmith would call, nothing yet after two days. I've heard that the customer service for EAA is the greatest so here I am.

 

[snooperman]

I have the H&K USP but have had no problems over several years of use and thousands of rounds. It is a great gun and is used by the German army and police in many German states.

 

[Edarnold]

I just did a fast look: SAR ST10 offered for $335. The HK USP offered for $750.

You get, pretty much, what you pay for. Nobody at the Turkish factory bothered to test fire your gun, or they would have caught such an obvious problem. I think HK has a reputation for doing their quality control inside the factory, not in the hands of the buyer. Good luck in getting your gun replaced, I would think that at that price point trying to fix it would be a money-waster for the importer.

 

[Phaedrus/69]

The USP is pretty bombproof. I've had a half dozen of them over the years (right now I have three) and haven't had a lick of trouble with any of them. HK quality control is very high and the gun is a very mature design. I know knowing about the ST10 so I can't offer any input there. I will say that if my life depended on one NIB off the rack gun to fire it would be a USP.

 

[dwhite]

Did you take your new pistol apart and clean / degrease it THOROUGHLY
before firing it?

The packing grease they use in some guns, especially those from
overseas is incredibly thick. It will slow or stop motion of small parts.

Take the slide off and spray it out thoroughly with non-chlorinated
brake cleaner. Let it dry. Then try it.

The Stoeger Cougar I just bought had an incredible amount of grease in it.

Price is rarely indicative of quality. When you compare exchange rates
of Dollars to Euros or Turkish Lira the real value of things change.

All the Best,
D. White

 

[Impureclient]

First off I would like to second what dwhite said:

Price is rarely indicative of quality.

Also:

HK quality control is very high and the gun is a very mature design.

I would imagine that is the reason SAR copied it and the internals are almost exactly the same in this gun as the HK USP.


I have two Caniks that are clones of a CZP01 and a Magnum Research Baby Desert Eagle. Both are machined and fitted much better than what they were molded after. I haven't shot the Stingray yet but I did take the T-120 out on the weekend along with a heavily modified CZ75b. The T-120 was shooting just as good if not better, without anything done to it yet, as the CZ. At 15 yards I was making a ragged one to two inch inch holes firing every second. Emptying the entire magazine quickly at 20 yards was all inside the human silhouette targets head. Not bad for a $300 gun or even a $1000 gun for that matter.
I bought the SAR because I assumed that with the quality of the first two Caniks, I would be safe with a SAR. This gun also is immaculately machined and fitted very tightly. The gun does work fine if you pay attention to letting it make that second click. I just want the first one to go away. Paying half the price of the HK to have almost exactly the same gun is worth a little teething issues for a range only gun in my opinion.
I like expensive quality guns as much as the next guy but I also like quality guns made for half the price due to a lesser demand and being a newer gun. I can send it in if I need to but I would rather just fix it myself if I can. I wasn't looking for reasons I shouldn't have bought this and a HK instead. I can go to the HK forums for that.
The gun came very dry and I did field strip it and lightly oil. After shooting I took it almost completely down and made sure it was cleaned and oiled. It still would make that first and second reset click. I talked to the receptionist at EAA and she said the gunsmiths were busy with some huge order so I'll give them a few days to catch up and see what happens.

 

[Impureclient]

Pray you don't have an issue with your EAA imported gun.

Update: Nov 3rd -I finally got through to a gunsmith. Right out of the gate, he was being highly contemptuous and I didn't know why as it was the first time I ever talked to the guy or anybody there past a secretary for that matter. I tried to explain what my gun was doing wrong but he didn't want to hear it. Then towards the end of me explaining what it was doing wrong he finally says I had called 10 times and everybody told me the same thing every time I called which was to "send the gun in" so that's what I need to do. Um, no. First off just checked my cell phone which records calls back for months of each and every call and I called 10/20, 10/21, 10/23, 10/31 and today 11/3 and never got past an operator that said to either call back as they were busy, just left or that she would send the message for them to call back. I hope their gunsmithing is not as bad as their customer service because it stinks. They were apparently getting the messages to call but ignoring them. This is the first and last gun I will purchase that has EAA stamped on it. If they don't screw this gun up after they attempt to fix it, I'm making sure I go above the gunsmiths heads as they need a talking to by their superiors. I just hope the gun doesn't come back worse in some way because I interrupted them so much and they take their frustration out on the gun.

 

[agtman]

I called EAA and was told a gunsmith would call, nothing yet after two days. I've heard that the customer service for EAA is [*NOT*] the greatest so here I am.

Fixed it for you.

Just sayin' ...

 

[tarosean]

count me as confused... Is it a CZ clone or HK clone???

 

[agtman]

Pray you don't have an issue with your EAA imported gun.

Well, some prayers go unanswered. They just do.

Update: Nov 3rd -I finally got through to a gunsmith. Right out of the gate, he was being highly contemptuous and I didn't know why as it was the first time I ever talked to the guy or anybody there past a secretary for that matter. I tried to explain what my gun was doing wrong but he didn't want to hear it. Then towards the end of me explaining what it was doing wrong he finally says I had called 10 times and everybody told me the same thing every time I called which was to "send the gun in" so that's what I need to do. Um, no. * * * I hope their gunsmithing is not as bad as their customer service because it stinks. They were apparently getting the messages to call but ignoring them.

So how was ol' Paul to deal with? Sounds like you caught him on a good day, although persistent customers who call repeatedly have been known to get ... "the treatment." Googling his "customer service" rep would have provided you with some insight, but not in a good way. Apparently, he's got family relations somewhere higher up at EAA, or he'd probably have been sent to the unemployment line years ago.

'Course, since this is EAA you're dealing with, maybe not.

This is the first and last gun I will purchase that has EAA stamped on it.

Can't imagine why ...

If they don't screw this gun up after they attempt to fix it, I'm making sure I go above the gunsmiths heads as they need a talking to by their superiors. I just hope the gun doesn't come back worse in some way because I interrupted them so much and they take their frustration out on the gun.

They will ... and it will.

You'll even get a note in the return box handwritten by The Gunsmith his ownself, stating, in effect:

"[Problem] fixed. Test fired. Okay."

Of course, it won't be.

Then 'round you go again. Good luck.

 

[Impureclient]

After reading what you wrote agtman, I was not sending the gun in if I could help it. I talked to the receptionist, Dawn, to see what I needed to do to get this sent in and she seemed very empathetic of this issue. I explained how I read bad things on a guy named Paul. Turns out that's who I talked to the other day. I guess what is said about him everywhere is true as he has some reputation for his customer service issues. She said not to judge him off of what I read on the internet.
So anyway, I took it down to every last screw and spring and studied what how everything worked inside. Putting this up so if anybody does a search, they have an answer how to fix this. Close up you can see a little extra shelf of metal at the end of the trigger bar that needed to be filed off. Then I wetsanded it 1000 grit. Back together and one single click for the reset. Also wetsanded a couple parts recommended on here: http://webpages.charter.net/gemarsh/hk usp trigger smoothing.html and it's nice and smooth.

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