I know this is probably an old post, but I found it by searching Google.
I just finished adjusting the trigger in my 110. I have heard that you are not supposed to stone, or sand, the sear or trigger but I figured I had nothing to lose as if I destroyed it, I would just buy an aftermarket trigger. I reduce the "creep" to zero. The gun now fires as soon as the trigger moves. I did my own version of "heat-treating" after the grind & polish. I basically heated up the surfaces that I worked on until they were glowing red and then let them air cool slowly. I don't know if this helps to heat-treat or not, but I thought what's the harm in trying. Again, if I destroy this trigger-an aftermarket one is only a few 'puter clicks away.
I also reduced the over-travel to near zero using the factory supplied screw. I lightened the trigger pull as far as I could by relieving tension on the trigger return spring, and also by reducing the over-all length of the firing pin spring. This helped some, but even after all of my work, the trigger still requires more pressure to release than I like. I would guess it is now done to 5-6 lbs..
In the end, the design of the trigger DOES NOT lend itself to lightening anymore without reducing reliability, or safety. So, for those who want to try and tackle the 110 trigger-just go ahead and buy an after-market trigger and be done with it.