SAvage 250 with cracked barrel

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shinyroks

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So, picked a pretty Savage 99 in 250-3000. Gave 300 for the gun, anyhow, after the first time I shot it with Remington factory ammo, realized it has a crack in the barrel, Dead center on top which would line up with the chamber. Been keeping an eye on it, and loading light 75 gr for varmints, and the crack hasn't moved. Still would feel comfortable if I could find a barrel to replace that one with, but have been told by several people at gun shows "good luck". Does anyone here know of a source for replacement barrels for the 250?
 
No, and to continue to shoot it is foolhardy.

It should have been retired when you first noticed it was cracked.

You will be dealing with hot shrapnel and 47,000 PSI white hot gas in your face if it decides it's had enough the next shot!!!

rc
 
Thanks for the advice, it will be retired until I can find a barrel. I have heard that the 22-250 round will work with the rest of the gun, namely the rotary mag, and may be slightly easier to come by...
 
Been keeping an eye on it, and loading light 75 gr for varmints, and the crack hasn't moved.

The barrel has failed and is now unsafe. Just when that seam gives way is an unknown quantity.

If it gives the rest will be very bad. Take a look at what happened to a M1a barrel that split at the chamber: http://thegunzone.com/m1akb.html

Hopefully the pictures will emphasis better than two people warning you, about the risk of firing a cracked barrel.

Given that you are going to need a new barrel, you have lots of options.

I just looked up the 250 Savage, it has the same 0.473" case head of the 308 class cartridges. If you wanted to, and your gunsmith says it will work, you could rebarrell in 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5-08, 308. You would need to check it out before following my advice because I don't know anything about the magazine issues on a M99, but these might be options.
 
The only consolation I give you, check with Gramp's Pawn in Longmont, CO., he has a Savage 250-3000 '99 for sale there, nice rifle, I've looked at it 3 or 4 times. You won't get it for $300, but I'll bet it doesn't have a crack in the breech or barrel !
 
If you wanted to, and your gunsmith says it will work, you could rebarrell in 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5-08, 308.

Have to be a late .250. Earlier models back when the .250 was popular, were too short in the action for the .308 family.
 
Shinyroks, how about a good clear picture of the cracked area?

Slamfire1, that M1A failure looks a lot like an earlier one that was attributed* to a flawed barrel, which turned out to be a "no-name" replacement, not the original M1A (Springfield Armory, Inc.) barrel. It split further up and the two pieces spread apart and broke the receiver apart with much the same results. I can't tell from the pictures if the barrel involved had any markings or not or if it was the original barrel, but it would be interesting to know if there may be other flawed M14/M1A barrels out there waiting to cause trouble.

*Finally, when an expert examined the rifle, though there were a number of internet theories, including the "sabotage to destroy American patriots" nonsense.

Jim
 
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Savage 99 cracked barrel

Before I would do anything about replacing the barrel, have it checked by a smith or metalergist to be sure it's not just a surface scratch. It may not need anything done, the barrel should have a slight bulge from pressure that caused the crack if that is the case. Al
 
Plenty of barrel makers out there who can turn and ream you a custom piece. Krieger, etc.

Don't think you're out of options if there's nothing available on the market that you can just screw on..
 
That rifle is unsafe and you should never fire it again. Send it to me and I will dispose of it for you in a proper manner!
 
got busy, and forgot I had this post here. A pic of the damaged area... the longitudinal part of the blemish ends where the shoulder of the cartridge should rest in the barrel.

late reply I know, got busy and forgot I had this thread up!
 

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That looks more like someone got carried away with a Dremel tool than a crack, but if it is a crack that barrel is toast.

Jim
 
That looks like a previously-rusted and improperly-cleaned gun, in my opinion.

That much bluing wear, I can see- probably was removed from storage at some point and had a band of rust between the barrel and receiver. You can see indications of pitting.

Has the rear leaf sight been "modified" as best as you can tell?

Because if someone was "adjusting" it (opening the hole wider / shaving the front off to "repaint" or whatever), I can see the dremel slipping and making those marks.

Any chance of a clearer pic?
 
It does not look like a crack.

There is a simple test you can do to determine whether there is a crack or not:
Remove the foreend. Pour a small amount of gasoline over the barrel at that point, then wipe the barrel to remove most of the gas - if, after the barrel appears dry, the 'crack' continues to exude liquid, it's a crack.
Any experienced gunsmith should be able to tell you whether there is an actual crack there or not.
And, a crack at that point would almost certainly extend through the barrel shank and into the chamber - the barrel would have failed already, and you'd be in no doubt.
Good Luck!
PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
There is a simple test you can do to determine whether there is a crack or not:
Remove the foreend. Pour a small amount of gasoline over the barrel at that point, then wipe the barrel to remove most of the gas - if, after the barrel appears dry, the 'crack' continues to exude liquid, it's a crack.
Any experienced gunsmith should be able to tell you whether there is an actual crack there or not.
And, a crack at that point would almost certainly extend through the barrel shank and into the chamber - the barrel would have failed already, and you'd be in no doubt.
Good Luck!
PRD1 - mhb - Mike
August 17, 2012 09:25 AM

That is the old trick engineers would use to find cracks in machinery, they would coat it with chalk also...the crack would be outlined by the oil/gas and soak the chalk.

You could also see if you could find a can of dye penetrant, you spray it on a suspect part with a crack, and it shows the crack. Works great on turbine parts..:)...too bad you aren't close to me, we could figure this thing out. Either way, based on the picture you supplied, I think it is a blemish of some sort, hard to tell for sure though.


Dye Penentrant: http://http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPOTCHECK-Dye-Penetrant-3WU59?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1
 
Yep...

and it's a trick we old gunsmiths use to find cracks in receivers or other parts - it works.
PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
having a radiograph done and inspected will cost as much as a new barrel! there are a lot cheaper ways to determine whether it is a crack or not like the gasoline and chalk trick or dye penetrant
Yeah and I work with dye penetrants and never thought of the old gasoline trick. Bad Ron on that one! Failed miserably to consider the cost.

Ron
 
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