Savage 99 takedown rebarrel

[gfreder]

I recently bought a '99 in 250-3000 and the barrel is a bit less than tight. It has interupted thread, serial # in the 196xxx range and is in quite nice condition other than the existing barrel not being as tight as I'd like. (My idea described below would want to address this as well) This '99 has the rounded bolt with cocking indicator on top of the receiver. Anyway, read an old article in the Jan. '73 Rifleman describing converting a '99 into other calibers by rebarreling. The article suggests that you can convert either 250-3000 to .300 Savage and vice versa. With the exchange of a different carrier, you can also choose .308, .243, 358 Win., and .284 Win. The article deals specifically with solid frame 99's but I'm wondering why you could not do this on a take down and have a multi barrel rifle in say 22-250, 250-3000, .300 Savage, and 358 Win. Before any purists howl with outrage this is a 99 that has been restocked and reblued. Additionally I think I'd have the frame color case hardened' which should add a little strength to the receiver? Anyone ever heard of this being done or have any wisdom to impart? Thanks!

 

[Jim Watson]

If the rifle was made before the introduction of the .308s, the action may not be long enough for that series of cartridges even if you replace the rotor, check it out.

It got loose by being taken down a lot. A swap barrel set would be subject to looseness and unevenness because of differences between barrels plus the temptation to change barrels every weekend. Maybe a very precise job of barrel fitting would get it by. Winchester would do different frontends for their takedowns, I never heard of a Savage, except for the .410.

Are you set up to do the work yourself? It won't be cheap to get gunsmithed.

I sold off a deceased friend's estate collection of 99s. He had a takedown that had been converted the other way. It had been rebarreled to .250 with barrel screwed in tight. The foreend still unlatched and came off but you could not use it to unscrew the barrel. Load data on a slip of paper inside. And it still shoots very accurately with that load. Some old nut name of Whelen did one that way, too.

Probably had been a .22 SHP or .303 originally, which would get modern safetyshooters all upset, but it had held up for 60 or 70 years of pretty regular use.

He had some takedowns, too. None were very loose and they shot ok, as far as iron sights go. One .22 SHP shot very well with tang peep.

Color case hardening is not going to strengthen a blue action. Might give a little surface wear resistance but that is about all.

 

[Gordon]

By the serial # you have a 'Model 1899 250-3000' made 1914-1921 with yours prolly round 1915-16. These guns are trim and nicely finished with special wood and metal checking. All were take down. A good gun smith could tighten up that barrel fit with some welding and machining!

 

[Clark]

I also recently got a 99Sav 250/3000 take down.
Mine is a beat up gun with a pitted out bore.
I am looking for a good used 99Sav 250 barrel.