savage 30GM sling?

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conhntr

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ive looked around and cant find an answer to a front sling swivel for the savage 30gm (22mag octagon barrel) i found a few barrel band styles etc. but on such a small/clean rifle i think these would really look blocky.

my theory is to just cut the end off a swivel stud, clean it up, then attach it directly to the barrel. anyone tried? what did you use to attach it? i dont have any welding equip. but the rifle is about 3lbs and i think epoxy or even super glue should be alright.
 
Glueing it won't work - no matter whether epoxy or superglue.

You don't want to do things to affect your barrel - it can disrupt the rifle's available accuracy.

sling mounted through the forestock is an idea.
 
I cannot help you in any way...

have no suggestions. But I can't help commenting because: 1. I love those little rifles meaning the Savage 71, 72, 74, and 30G series. 2. One just sold on Gunbroker with a sling which was what the OP mentioned....a swivel on the buttstock and a little ring around the barrel with the swivel for the forward connection. I sort of wanted to bid on the gun but the sling looked so tacky to me and I did not want a swivel stud hole in the stock so I passed. But OP is right...a sling just does not look right on that style of rifle.

The only thing I can think of right now as I brainstorm....something straight out of Dixie Gun Works land...something that is simple and primitive might pass on this gun if that is your taste....such as a fringed bucksking thong attached in some simple way to stock and barrel. You follow me. Some people will think this idea sounds really ugly and others would think it looks, well, cool. Think about it.
 
sling through the forend wont work becuase that is only about 18" from the butplate! wouldnt carry right.

moe, i love the gun as well with open sights the 22mag i have shoots into 1" at 50 yards (the best of my ability with those type of open sights!).

last year i just used some green parachute cord slip knot on the but stock than a double loop knot (i have no idea the name of that knot) with one loop in front/behind front sight. it carried fine but didnt want something that looked so dumb.

i wonder if i could just get a spot/weld of just a sling stud (with the screw cut off) on the bottom of the barrel under the front sight. very small and w/o the sling should be unobtrusive. i just cant stand carrying the gun in my hand as far as i hike 5-10miles even a <4lb gun gets heavy.
 
Popular fix for this is to make a 'barrel band' of the correct form and as RC said, silver solder it to the barrel...re-blue, installation and fabrication cost of making the band all adds up to $$$...

There used to be a leather strap type thingy the coal burner guys used to use to position a sling strap to their barrels... try looking on some muzzle loading sites for this contraption, like a shotgun sling.

We have drilled the barrels of these rifles being the wall of the barrel is pretty thick on this thing, and it's a 22lr... you do not drill completely through the barrel wall, but drill and tap a 'blind' hole and install an 'European' type swivel stud.(Dakota Arms swivel stud)(Talley European Swivel bases).

This method avoids the fabrication costs and re-bluing costs, and it looks good.

You may have to machine the width of the swivel stub down to mach the barrel flat width, then just blue the swivel stud... your done, and you can do it yourself.

These can be silver soldered to the barrel also... you can cut the threaded portion of a wood screw type Uncle Mikes swivel stud off and solder the head of it to the barrel also.

N.E.C.G. makes a pretty swivel base you can modify to your project also... but the European style swivel stud is the best looking and least costly... and it just attaches with two screws.
 
/These can be silver soldered to the barrel also... you can cut the threaded portion of a wood screw type Uncle Mikes swivel stud off and solder the head of it to the barrel also.
/

thats what i was looking at, but i dont the tools... really not looking to spend ANYthing on this as the gun was 150$...
 
Get yourself the European swivel stud... it will have more surface area to solder to....give ya' a healthier amount of yank before the swivel lets go.

Drop a couple of screw heads in the mounting holes and solder them in also, it'll 'look' like the screws are doing something...you know, it will fill the holes.

Also you are aware that we are referring to 'Silver' solder and not run of the mill tin/lead composition solder.

If you Silver solder the swivel stud to your barrel you will more than likely have to touch up the bluing in that area.

You'll need some heat sink compound also, among other stuff.
 
What about a flush cup swivel (made by Uncle Mikes amongst others), it will allow you to completely imbed the swivel mount (similar function to a stud, not the swivel) into the stock and remain flush, as the name suggests. They are lightweight, look good, and comparably inexpensive, but are difficult to find locally. :)
 
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