Savage Accu trigger mods: What is the skinny?

Status
Not open for further replies.

RussellC

Member
Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
2,662
I have a couple of 12 FV rifles with Accu trigger. I keep reading thing like, "With a couple of tweaks, spring changes this is a first rate factory trigger." I have seen recommendations of various spring changes, etc.

What is the low down? Both of my 12FVs are recent buys, during the last 100 dollar off plus 100 dollar gift card deals, so are recent manufacture.

Russellc
 
Most of those folks are talking about simple spring changes, or modifications. The creep and overtravel on the Accutriggers are typically manageable, and often better than most factory triggers, so reducing pull weight is about the only way to “improve” the trigger. A lot of guys take down the sear safety blade as well, such the blade is flush when the trigger is pulled, instead of slightly proud. All of this is easy enough to do, and as long as you recognize your particular trigger, YouTube has you covered (some of the accutrigger springs and screws have changed over the years, but the principle of the trigger jobs are all the same).

Take the accutrigger you have down to its minimum pull and see how you like it. If it needs more tweaking to suit your desires, then a spring job and the blade trim is all simple.
 
I replace the accutrigger blade spring with one from a bic lighter to reduce the weight on the safety blade. You can also trim the sear spring to reduce the pull weight. You must be careful with this as reducing the safety blade spring will make the rifle no longer drop safe if you go to far. In my 6.5x284 target rifle I have removed the safety blade entirely and the trigger is tuned to about 12 ounces. This is a single shot target rifle and the bolt is never closed on a round except when pointed down range, I would not go this far on anything I had a practical use for. With just spring work it is very easy to get a nice 2-3 lb trigger that will still be drop safe. If your trigger has side to side play you can also make some shims to go between the trigger and the body to take up any movement. I would advise against trying to do any smoothing work on the sear surfaces.
 
You can see it a bit in this picture. Accutrigger with safety blade removed. (again use common sense matching trigger work with the intended use of the gun)

image.jpg
 
Thanks. I have taken it down as far as he manual says to, until spring makes contact and turned it no further. It is slightly lighter than the original. Compared to my AR15 SPR clone with Giselle G2S, maybe ever so much lighter I think, ( No trigger scale on hand ) which is 2 lbs final stage.

Russellc
 
Most of those folks are talking about simple spring changes, or modifications. The creep and overtravel on the Accutriggers are typically manageable, and often better than most factory triggers, so reducing pull weight is about the only way to “improve” the trigger. A lot of guys take down the sear safety blade as well, such the blade is flush when the trigger is pulled, instead of slightly proud. All of this is easy enough to do, and as long as you recognize your particular trigger, YouTube has you covered (some of the accutrigger springs and screws have changed over the years, but the principle of the trigger jobs are all the same).

Take the accutrigger you have down to its minimum pull and see how you like it. If it needs more tweaking to suit your desires, then a spring job and the blade trim is all simple.
Yes, it was discussions about the various springs that had my attention. I did notice it seemed that various springs could lower below 2 lbs. Pull.

Russellc
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top