scale callibration

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deadeye dick

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Is it necessary to use test weights when zeroing out a scale. I have the Lee beam scale and just zero it with the beam at 0 ball at 0. To my way of thinking that should be dead on. Am I correct?:confused:
 
Most likely, yes.
I also use the same(proven) .172 25 grain bullet to check when loading .223 & the same 55 grain .224 bullet when loading heavier charges.
 
Check weights are an added safety precaution. It was a number of years before I bought a set but do use them now just to be sure scale is accurate at different settings.
 
Absolutely essential IMO when using electronic scales, as they all drift, it's just a matter of how much. Once the cal is dead on with a test weight nearest to your charge, cut and fold a piece of tin foil the weight of the charge to use as a quick cal check to detect drift. As for the Lee scale, I have one, but it doesn't agree with my electronic scales, which I trust more. It may be as much as a tenth grain off of a ten grain standard weight. Too much IMO for small charges.
 
Just zero it on a flat and level surface, as per the instructions, and you'll be all right.

Whenever I develop a new load, I first check on the digital, but then make sure on the beam scale, just to make sure. Whatever the beam scale says, it's right. And is a Lee like yours.
 
It is always interesting in that so many reloaders completely trust the accuracy of their beam scale without ever having put a check weight on it. Yet, they are more than happy to say how unreliable an electronic scale is. Never quite figured out the logic in that type of thinking.

Zeroing a beam scale so it indicates "0" does nothing to verify its degree of accuracy. And for the record, my Lyman beam scale is not "perfect".
 
I use the same scale that I have for over 40 years. It is off a little according to the check weights, but I start low and work up so it shouldn't matter as long as I use my readings only.
 
I always say, "Is it LEE or is it MEE?" When I calibrate to zero, put the ball on ten, and put ten in the pan, it is off a tenth. I only care because I load .32's and .380's.
 
So if a beam scale is off a little when I put a 30 grain weight in it, how do you adjust it and still have it to say zero when you take the weight out of it and put everything back on zero?
 
What I do on mine.....I move the weight adjustments until I get an exactly balanced 30 grains with the check weight in the pan....then use it.
 
I have a set of check weights. I had to recalibrate my 505 scale. I check it every once in a while. I used to work as a biology and chemistry lab tech so recalibrating a beam scale is exceedingly easy compared to old school analytical scales.
 
Calibrate the Lee at the nearest ten grains and back it in or out to balance your charge weight.
 
My digital scale came, as I guess most do, with a check weight. I've weighed that weight on the Lee beam scale and it was spot on.
 
Here is an admittedly extreme example. Hodgdon recommends loading 32 acp with 71 grain bullets with Titegroup starting at 2.0 grains with a max of 2.2. The max is totally unsatis-factory compared to factory ammo, so I load at 2.3. Not much room there for scale error.
 
I agree! I load so Im shooting just over the idpa power factor numbers I need! HowardJ is on the right track.

FYI something I learned in my younger, carefree days, a us treasury note, i.e. $1,5,10,etc weighs exactly 1 gram! So if ya need to check the scale on the fly, you can do it!
 
I check my Redding beam scale using the check weights I bought quite a few years ago, as well as checking my Lyman Digital scale, so far both have been exactly the same, however when I get near maximum load I'll use both to check my load data.
 
It is always interesting in that so many reloaders completely trust the accuracy of their beam scale without ever having put a check weight on it. Yet, they are more than happy to say how unreliable an electronic scale is. Never quite figured out the logic in that type of thinking.

Zeroing a beam scale so it indicates "0" does nothing to verify its degree of accuracy. And for the record, my Lyman beam scale is not "perfect".

yup, my beam scale seems to be off a couple .10's in the low range. My beam scale is a Lyman 505.

I ended up taking a couple small drill bits and grinding them to length to make my own check weights. I have a beam scale and a decent electronic scale and I borrowed another electronic scale. I made a check weight that matches my powder drop for the .45 and the 9mm. When I set up my beam scale now I can set one of those checks on the balance and fine tune the zero. Yes, I realize my 4.2 gr check weight is probably not 4.2 gr. but it doesn't change so if I set my scale, or any scale for that matter, to that weight I know my loads are repeatable.
 
Check weights

I have two scales, a RCBS 1010 and a Acculab VIC 123. I also have the RCBS check weights. I use the checks every time I load with either scale I use. I frequently check the scales for drift just because poo happens. I don't enjoy pulling down rounds due to an "an awe heck". If I lost my check weights I would order them again and probably wouldn't load until I got a new set. And yes i load RedHawks in 357 and 44 so not really worried that I am ever going to have a Kaboom. I just think it's good practice.
 
Who checks the checkers of check weights?

Leaving your electronic scales on constantly or allowing them to "warm up" for an hour or so will minimize the fluctuations you see. Something to do with the circuits or capacitors reaching a steady state. Ask the electrical guys why, but this had always worked for me. I don't get any drift with my RCBS scale
 
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