Scuffing/marks on colt types

[Tomahawk674]

Hey guys, I just noticed marks on the barrel near the wedge from tapping it out. Also, I was using cabela's wedge puller, and that has apparently marred the finish on the other side of the wedge. It went unnoticed for a long time, even though I clean it thoroughly after shooting every time. I'll make sure to use a little rubber pad from now on.

My question is, is it pretty common to see colt type guns with marks near the wedge, or am I the only fool who didn't notice what I was doing? The steel on this Uberti must be pretty soft since I never used forceful blows to get the wedge out, just the lightest taps.

I am willing to accept some damage as unavoidable, like the score around the cylinder from the bolt. I'm just wondering if I'm the only one with this type of marks. Missery loves company...

 

[madcratebuilder]

It does not take much to scare the bluing or even put a scratch in the steel. Yes it is common to see the area around the wedge beat up to one degree or another.

My primary tool for wedge removal is a rawhide mallet, no matter how hard I hit it there is no marking. For real stubborn wedges I use a BRASS punch. Almost all used Colts I have bought have some minor marks on the wedge when I get them.

 

[Das Jaeger]

674

Yes , in haste or battle especially you can get some real ugly marks on your COlts from the wedge pulling . Actaully pulling is a bad name for it as you 90% of the time tap out or push out a wedge anywayz .
I use a small nylon face hammer from Brownells . When its stubborn I use an alluminum wedge punch form Navy Arms I got years ago . When I just don't care and I know there is ample wedge out to the one side and I won't hit my barrel I just tap it with my brass hammer .
I also use a sight drift punch from Brownells , shaped to fit the wedge and go through the slot as you tap , made form hard white nylon . Those work good too , 3 for a few dollars is all they cost .
Trick to the COlt is DON'T beat them in to start with and they come out real easy for ya that way . Just make sure the cylidner gap is functional and acceptable when your doing it . Hitting it harder is not going to tighten up the cylinder gap anyways on alot of them , the arbor will not permit any further tightening on some of them anywayz as its bottomed out already .
These are not KORTH Revolvers , they were never meant to be or have cylinder gaps of the Dan Wessons and such anywayz . It was made to be a tool and to work on with simple tools , smack it in, smack it out, softly !

Jaeger

 

[Snaggletooth]

674, being cheap and living in a remote area, I cut off about three inches of a broken handle from a splitting maul, drilled a hole in the center to accomodate a 3/8 inch dowel cut to 9 or 10 inches and glued a piece of leather on the mallet cut from an old belt, trimmed the leather and have a mallet that is handier than pockets on a shirt.

 

[BCRider]

I'm not sure what a Cabela's wedge puller looks like or is made from. But if you use the rawhide, wood or plastic options mentioned here there's no way that you should ever see a mark. In some cases brass or aluminium may leave some marks on corners of the wedge but if you're seeing anything on the flat areas then these are just metal scuffings from the drift metal sticking to the blueing and they should clean off. If by some chance the Cabela's wedge puller is made from steel then I'd stop using it pronto.

 

[Tomahawk674]

Yeah it turns out the wedge is made from steel; the thing was that it had a cover layer of some sort that was softer, but that has fallen off and I think that's when the marks started to happen. I just didn't notice them in time. The damage isn't horrendous, but it's still upsetting.

 

[Hellgate]

I have always used a hard wood dowel to knock out the wedges. If they are tight then I will use the edge of an old house key (the part you hold to turn it). The keys are made of bronze and are pretty hard but won't mar the gun metal.

 

[A. Walker]

A wedge puller is used on a rifle, not a revolver. Get yourself a brass punch to remove your wedge with, and stop boogering up your piece with that rifle tool...

 

[Tomahawk674]

Well, I never did notice how it said it was for rifles. I could have sworn someone recomended it to me for revolvers. Anyways, it turns out it will damage your rifle stock too, according to a review on the Cabela's site.

 

[madcratebuilder]

I tried one of those wedge pullers years ago, tossed it in the scrap pile. You can make a revolver wedge tool from some 5/8 diameter brass stock. A piece about five inches long and then grind one end to resemble a giant screwdriver tip, a six inch wheel makes a nice radius. Finish it up just smaller than the end of your wedge. Then radius to end of the tool to match the radius on the end of the wedge. You now have a large contact area that is much stronger than a round punch.

 

[alemonkey]

Hardwood dowel works for me.