Help! I can't remove the wedge on my Pietta 1851

[Mobius]

I thought it was as simple as tapping the wedge out with a hammer. Nope. I've tried everything, and marred the hell out of the finish in the process. I did recall someone mentioning the use of a penny, so I tried that early on with no success. When I got home I searched for that thread, but it didn't help. I can't seem to find any new information. How do you do it? Am I just being a wimp and not hitting it hard enough?

Edit: Here's more info on the problem, after reading my post it seems kind of vague. This is the thread I made reference to:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=131145

I don't have a wedge removal tool and I can't even seem to find what one looks like from searching the web. I've tried using a penny in pretty much every position and orientation possible. What am I missing?

 

[20cows]

Use a brass drift and smack it pretty good. After you get it out, file on the wedge until it fits so that it can be removed with firm thumb pressure. I did this on mine so i could easily reload it in the field by changing cylinders (don't cap the cylinder until it's in the frame, however).

(Edit) I just looked at the link above and saw I was repeating myself a little, but you're going to have to remove it and I think the brass drift and a real hammer (16-20 oz.) is the best thing to do at this point.

 

[vega]

I marred my 1851 too when I tried to remove the wedge the first time. I have a wooden clothes pin which I use to tap it out. I put it on top of the spring so it would go inside that hole. Give it a good smack.

vega

 

[RobW]

There are brass drifts especially made to start out wedges on revolvers and rifles. They have a round handle approx. 3/8" diameter and narrows to a blade approx. 3/32" wide. They work perfectly and don't cost a leg and an arm. Look up Cabela's or Ox Yoke. When you see it, you KNOW that is it!

I wouldn't advise to file the wedge. If you do too much, you have a loose barrel, barrel alignment problems, or the barrel is getting loose during shooting.
The wedge should be as firm in the slot as possible without binding the cylinder to the barrel.

 

[Mk VII]

I turned a piece of brass rod to the right diameter and used that as a drift if necessary. It shouldn't be so tight that you have to knock it out, if pushed home far enough it may make the front of the cylinder drag on the frame. Remember the wedge is cheap and easy to replace, so it should be the component that distorts over time. I've got through three so far.

 

[mec]

Ive seen a post detailing the same problem on another board. May be your post but if not, It could be that Pietta is doing something wierd with current 51s.

They do seem to find all sorts of ways to show their customers the depts of their....... appreciation.

 

[Mobius]

No, that wasn't my post. Could you give me a link? It might be helpful.

I actually managed to pop the wedge out last night. I used a cheap Chinese screwdriver that was made out of copper or something. All I did was place the blade of the screwdriver on the wedge, under the slot where the wedge spring is cut out, and hammered the hell out of it with a 16 oz. hammer. It took a lot of force, I thought I was going to break the damn gun. The weird thing is the wedge seems to have only one position. People have told me to tap the wedge in until the cylinder drags, then tap it out a bit. Well, I can't do that. It's either in or out all the way. It doesn't go very far in, either. The end of the wedge is flush with the side of the gun, on most of the 1851s I've seen the wedge protrudes a bit. Maybe it is a Pietta thing.

 

[Jim K]

I use a plastic mallet, but wood or rawhide will do. Once the wedge is loosened up a bit, a crab mallet works just fine. Don't use brass. I know it is softer than steel but that does not mean blows from a brass hammer won't dent, bend or mar steel.

I have one of those wedge pullers, but don't use it, as it depends on leverage against the barrel and even with aluminum I don't like to take a chance on marring the blue.

Jim

 

[mec]

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=62581

One guy said something interesting- maybe the wedge is in upside down. I can see somebody in Brecia, Italy cheerfully hammering wedges in like that.

 

[Hellgate]

Mobius,
I use the edge of a house key as my drift. Put the part you would normally hold, on edge and smack that with a hammer. Or you could saw off a rifle cartridge case about an inch long and then pound the mouth flat to make it straight to use as a drift then pound on the case head with a hammer. Be sure to lube the wedge before reinstalling it.
To make a "feeler guage" buy a piece of .007" thick paper from your corner print shop and cut strips of paper and place one between the cylinder & barrel as you carefully tap it back in. As soon as the barrel bites into the paper you are set and pull out the paper or tap the wedge out a little if the paper gets bound.

 

[20cows]

If the wedge already goes ALL the way in, then it may need to be replaced. There is expected to be wear on the wedge of C&B as the pistol is taken apart every time it's cleaned and that should be alot. Please note that I said to file on the wedge and not the barrel or frame. As the wedge wears it should go in a little farther with time (it's tapered), meaning when it's new it shouldn't already go to the hilt. Dixie Gun Works would be a good place to get a replacement.

Having the wedge where it can be removed by thumb pressure was a common practice when these revolvers were used in the 1850's and later. Texas rangers of the period often carried two to four guns and extra cylinders to facilitate quick reloading in the saddle on the move. The little retention spring on the wedge is to keep the wedge from being lost in such a procedure.

A friend of mine found a cylinder (from a Colt's 2nd model dragoon if I remember right) on his ranch in Taylor county that was probably lost in such a hurried reload. There was a Butterfield Overland Stage station near there and lots of Indian activity in the vacinity.

 

[redneck2]

I had a wedge that was really tough to remove once...

I was in grade school and the big high school kids caught me on the playground

 

[Smokin_Gun]

Wedge removal

The best thing I have found is using a teflon cleaning brush, you know the white ones with nylon bristles, you can get them anywhere. Cut and shape it into a wedge like a flat tip chisle and using a brass hammer in case you miss gently beat the hell out of it. No damage to revolver. And yor lucky its tight most has a loose wedge problem and this may be Pietta's cure for that. Does your set screw go in straight or at an angle. If angle the screw will hold the wedge where you want it.
Just a footnote: This is one reason why Remmington did so well over Colt in 1858. I love the look and feel of a Colt, but there's nothing like an 1858 New Army .44.