Seeking Detailed Comparison of FN Made Model 70 Sporter vs. Featherweight +Questions +Poll

Do you prefer the Model 70 Featherweight or Sporter?

  • Featherweight

    Votes: 15 88.2%
  • Sporter

    Votes: 2 11.8%

  • Total voters
    17
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Scout21

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I'm still kinda new here so if this is in the wrong place please let me know.

I've been looking for a nice, heirloom quality rifle for primarily deer and hog, and hopefully one day for elk, moose, and brown bear. I've really been looking hard at a new production wood stocked Model 70, most likely in blued, I haven't decided quite yet on the chambering. I'm only interested in a new FN production rifle, not a pre-64. Also only interested in a standard Sporter or Featherweight, not a super grade or Alaskan or anything else. For simplicity's sake let's just say that I'm gonna go with a 30-06 for now, certainly no magnum chamberings, that's for sure. I'd appreciate it if some knowledgeable folks could school me on the intricate differences between the Sporter and the Featherweight. I guess I should start with the differences that I'm already aware of.

Featherweight
-Lighter
-22 inch lighter profile barrels (standard, non-magnum cartridges)
-Schnabel fore-end
-Fancy wood checkering
-No cheek piece

Sporter
-Heavier
-24 inch sporter weight barrels
-Cheek piece

Questions

I believe I was told quite a while ago that the Featherweight has a trigger guard or floor plate that's known for it's finish wearing off faster than the Sporter, although Winchester states that they both have alloy trigger guards and steel floor plates. Is this true? It's been quite a while so I may be remembering incorrectly.

Exactly how much lighter is a Featherweight compared to a Sporter? Winchester states on their website that there is only a 4 oz. difference between them in the 30-06, although I've read that these measurements are inaccurate and there's a larger difference between the two.

Is the balance of the two variations all that different from one another, both in shooting and in carry? Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to play with either as no one close to me carries a Model 70.

I'd like to minimize muzzle blast, so does anyone have any first hand experience comparing the muzzle blast of a 22 inch barrel as compared to a 24 inch barrel? I know that theoretically the longer barrel should be better at mitigating blast, although I'm curious if two additional inches are enough to make a tangible, noticeable difference in the real world.

Is it possible to get a 24 inch barrel in the Featherweight stock from the factory?

I've read that these rifles come pre-bedded, does this mean that I can remove the rifle from it's stock and not have to worry about re-zeroing the rifle after reassembly?

I guess while we're at it I'll start a poll (because who doesn't like polls) seeing which variation people prefer.
 
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I 'm selling my Pre 64 collection right now, Here are the differences between the Featherweights and the rifles ('sporters' ) . The feather weights are a lot lighter. I have say a .264 Win Mag in a Featherweight and it weighs about 7 pounds with a 22 inch barrel with about a 9/16" muzzle and tapers up back to the action threads . The simple flip up Lyman sight is mounted in a barrel dovetail. The trigger guard and the floor plate are aluminum , good aluminum but the the finish is softer than the blued steel. The Stock has two lightening holes bored into it and covered by the butt plate. The rifle has a lively feel about it for a 7 pound gun and is well balance and not a sawed off carbine.
The Rifle Version of a .264 Win Mag has a 26" barrel in the earlier Westerner vesion and the last ones had 24" barrels as did all non magnum caliber rifles. The barrel is a little heavier profile about 5/8" at the muzzle and has a swell in it where the sights , usually an elevator style on the earlier guns . Both guns styles have a detachable hooded ramp front sight .. The rifle versions have the same trigger guard but all steel and have no lightening holes in Butt and are generally a little denser in the walnut , In .264 the rifle weighs 8 1/4 pounds.
The feather weights generally command a little more in price than rifles , depending on caliber and rarity. The Feather weights were only made in .264 for the Magnum calibers , I think. All the magnum calibers command a higher price in rifles. Non magnums in the uncommon calibers like .358 , which could be had in a carbine are rare. Others too like .257 Roberts , ,22 Hornet , and even more uncommon calibers get expensive quickly. The Target rifles also are worth more, the Varmint guns are worth more and express guns (which usually had 25" barrels) in Standard Grades are very valuable. Then there are the Super grades which have higher finish work and little exclusive features.
Now the barrel profiles between the 22" Feather weight barrels and 24" rifle barrels are different,as are there mid barrel attachment, no stock interchange.
I don't see any difference in the Muzzle blast of the overbore .264 22" versus 24" or 26". Same with .308 or .270 or .243 in 22" or 24" negligable except to lab equipment .. You lose maybe 100 FPS or less going down from 24" to 22" , most guns seem with in 60 or so fps.
Model 70s of the pre 64 are usually bedded with non floating barrels but with the multi screw bedding system did not seem to shift much is field conditions. The can be bedded very well with slight relieving and glass bedding of points. I like and was taught how to do full length pressure bedding of them with glass. That makes them pretty darn stable but adds a little weight. Pre 64 Winchesters are a very smooth and positive action with a great, simple trigger. One in good shape gives several lifetimes of service if cared for.
I have a beautiful, exceptionally accurate 30-06 Feather weight from 1957 that would make a great do anything "heritage" gun , 7 pounds unscoped, and with a light Leupold 3-9 and rings it would weigh about what a standard rifle does with nothing, 8 1/4 pounds which is ideal for a 30-06 . ,Mine is very similar to this one but $1200 shipped to you FFL
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/871730149
 
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The only thing I can speak to is the factory bedding. It's total crap. Well, the bedding on my Safari Express was total crap. It was soft to the touch like silly putty. Had it professionally bedded and it shoots like a dream now.

For an all around hunting gun that includes brown bear I'd get the Alaskan in 30-06, or better yet, step up to 375 H&H.
 
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I own a featherweight in 30-06. It is a fine rifle. Even though it is not a sought after pre-64, but a more recent (late 80's/early90's) model it has beautiful wood, and great blueing. It shoots well enough, and as has been mentioned the factory bedding is questionable. It was years before I removed the stock. To this day it is a bear to remove so maybe bedding is not so bad... :)

At the time I purchased mine I was in my early 20's and buying a rifle to tote around the hills near Devils Tower in Wyoming. I wanted light, and this fit the bill. Over time as I got older the rifle is a handful for any range activity. Make sure you want light. A little weight in a 30-06 and up really doesn't hurt in a lot of cases.

I have not compared muzzle blast of 22 vs 24, but I can tell you that in 20+ years hunting in MI with my family they know when I shoot. I still get comments about the blast compared to other rifles. It does not seem so bad to me, but my father in law many years ago nicknamed the rifle "rolling thunder".

-Jeff
 
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Over he past couple of years I have given new FN made M70 Featherweight rifles (with a nice scope) to each of my nephews to get them started down the right path in life. The rifle is well made and I really like the looks of the Featherweight stock. The bedding is OK but it would be best to re-zero the rifle if you have pulled it apart.

I have both a new M70 Fwt. and a standard model. For me the standard M70 feels better, other fellows like the Fwt. better. You really need to go to a shop and get the feel of them yourself.

Others may have more sensitive hearing but I can not tell the difference in a 22" and a 24" barrel when shooting a standard cartridge such as a 30-06. I have experienced fairly good accuracy from the new FN Winchester rifles. They are certainly not target rifles but think they are better than the older production rifles. The M70 is a good choice for a hunting rifle.
 
I own a “new production” .308 EW; I can speak to it’s quality as being quite excellent. It is an average grouper with factory fodder but with hand loads, I have shot many 5 count ragged one hole groups at 100 yards. My current production M70 is a great rifle.
 
I have a pre-64 Model 70 -- actually a pre-War rifle, made in 1939.

I prefer it to the new "Classic" Winchesters for two reasons:

1. One piece bolt. The new rifles have the bolt handle pressed on and you can twist them off under stress.

2. Classic trigger. The new Model 70s have enclosed triggers, which can freeze up on you.
 
I have been shooting and hunting with Model 70 rifles since the 1970's. In the early years I preferred the standard grade but over time I have come to like the featherweight better. Today my two favorite hunting rifles are both featherweight models. A rifle with a 22 inch barrel is easier to carry, weighs a half pound less, and is just as easy to shoot accurately as a standard grade. I still have four standard grade rifles but if I had it to do all over I would buy only the featherweight. I agree with Gordon in that a good weight for a 30-06 featherweight with scope and sling is about 8 1/4 pounds, and not over 8 1/2 pounds depending on the rifle. We're talking about a 13 ounce scope.
 
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Thanks for the info guys, it really helps. I wanted to ask around before I made the hour and a half trek to the closest store that carries both rifles.

I was kinda worried that the factory bedding would be sub-par like Robert said, but I'm always willing to learn new skills and wouldn't mind taking a swing at learning to bed if necessary. I've never had a bedded rifle, however I've always been under the impression that if your rifle is bedded you don't have to re-zero after stock removal. It'd be great if that was the case as it rains quite often where I hunt and I'd be removing the stock frequently and therefore be re-zeroing quite often.

It's unfortunate that you can't get a 24 inch barrel in a featherweight stock. I love the idea of a longer barrel in that beautiful stock. Plus it'd add a little weight to help with recoil. Oh well, I guess you can't have everything.
 
I have a pre-64 Model 70 -- actually a pre-War rifle, made in 1939.

I prefer it to the new "Classic" Winchesters for two reasons:

1. One piece bolt. The new rifles have the bolt handle pressed on and you can twist them off under stress.

2. Classic trigger. The new Model 70s have enclosed triggers, which can freeze up on you.

Vern, are these issues theoretical or have you had first hand experience with them? In my somewhat limited research I haven't come across anyone mentioning these things occurring.
 
Have an FN/Browning EW/SS in .270 WCF.

WP-20190419-15-09-30-Pro-50-crop-R.jpg
Action runs smooth as polished glass, and the trigger breaks like an icicle.
W/ 150 gr. loads - it gives up ~ 50 fps to the 24" Bbl.

So will the .30-06 Featherweight.

Doesn't bother me... and the meat tastes the same.

Better still hunting rifle.

Your call.




GR
 
Between the current production Sporter and Featherweight I'll take the Featherweight. By modern standards it is closer to standard weight. The Sporters are too heavy for a non-magnum chambering. A 24" barrel won't balance, nor look right with the Featherweight stock and barrel profile. They did make a few rifles a few years ago with a Featherweight stock and standard contour 24" barrel in magnum cartridges. It looked goofy and balanced poorly. Sold poorly too.

The Sporter may well be a touch more accurate, especially for long shot strings. But it would be rare for a Featherweight to not shoot the 1st 3 shots from a cold barrel very near 1 MOA which is perfectly adequate for hunting

In non-magnum chambering you gain nothing with a 24" barrel. Noise between the 2 is a non issue, as is velocity. Every barrel is different with 50-100+ fps difference between barrels of the same length. It isn't uncommon at all for a particular 22" barrel to shoot the same ammo faster than another rifle with a 24" barrel. My Winchester 30-06 is consistently 90 fps faster than my Remington 30-06, both with 22" barrels. My 20" Tikka 308 is 25-30 fps faster than my 22" Winchester 308 and 50 fps faster than my 22" Kimber.

If you are willing to take the time to search for one of the 1992-2006 New Haven Production "Classic" model 70's it might be worth the effort. Those rifles combine the best qualities of the Pre64 with modern manufacturing. IMO they are the best model 70's made. The prices are more reasonable than the Pre64's too. The biggest difference is they changed the trigger on the FN made guns. The newer trigger is smoother out of the box, but is an enclosed design that at least in theory is more likely to get crud in it and malfunction. The old style trigger can be great, but may need some attention. But it is the most rugged, reliable trigger ever made.

I have had 3 of the Classics, 2 of 3 were great. One was a 2006 made gun and had issues that needed to be corrected. The ones made in the last year or 2 of production can have minor issues. The closer you get to a 2006 production the least likely I'd be to buy it. The ones with 6 digit SN's are all pre 2000 rifles and are all great. Low 7 digit numbers are from the early 2000's and are every bit as good, it's just that it's easy to identify the ones with 6 digit numbers. Once you get to 2004-2006 its more of a gamble and I'm not sure where that SN range begins.

Of the current production guns I also much prefer the Extreme Weather. The standard diameter barrel aids accuracy, but the fluting reduces weight somewhat getting it closer to the Featherweight's weight.
 
Between the current production Sporter and Featherweight I'll take the Featherweight. By modern standards it is closer to standard weight. The Sporters are too heavy for a non-magnum chambering. A 24" barrel won't balance, nor look right with the Featherweight stock and barrel profile. They did make a few rifles a few years ago with a Featherweight stock and standard contour 24" barrel in magnum cartridges. It looked goofy and balanced poorly. Sold poorly too.

The Sporter may well be a touch more accurate, especially for long shot strings. But it would be rare for a Featherweight to not shoot the 1st 3 shots from a cold barrel very near 1 MOA which is perfectly adequate for hunting

In non-magnum chambering you gain nothing with a 24" barrel. Noise between the 2 is a non issue, as is velocity. Every barrel is different with 50-100+ fps difference between barrels of the same length. It isn't uncommon at all for a particular 22" barrel to shoot the same ammo faster than another rifle with a 24" barrel. My Winchester 30-06 is consistently 90 fps faster than my Remington 30-06, both with 22" barrels. My 20" Tikka 308 is 25-30 fps faster than my 22" Winchester 308 and 50 fps faster than my 22" Kimber.

Thanks JMR, this in particular was very helpful. I figured that the longer barrel would look and feel strange on the Featherweight, but I was hopeful anyway. It's good to have confirmation.

I was concerned about the barrel heating up with the Featherweight, but I forgot to mention it in my original post. I'd never shoot more than three shots while hunting, so the thin barrels seems like a non-issue.

I didn't think 2 inches of barrel would make much, if any difference in velocity. I was mostly worried about the potential for excessive blast with the slightly shorter barrel. It too seems to be a non-issue.

I appreciate your input, friend.
 
Vern, are these issues theoretical or have you had first hand experience with them? In my somewhat limited research I haven't come across anyone mentioning these things occurring.
A friend over-torqued the bolt handle and left the rifle out of action in his excitement to get off a second shot at an elk. I had an enclosed trigger freeze up on me in the Colorado Rockies on an elk hunt.
 
I saved and saved to buy a FN 30/06 featherweight in a maple stock. Shoots great, but theres one big problem; the damn thing is too pretty to take out into the woods.
 
Mine is a featherweight in .280 Rem. Yes, the trigger guard is painted Al. At least it was. I put in a steel trigger guard from Brownell's that matches the rest of the rifle perfectly. For my gun the limitation of the featherweight is that it will only shoot decent 3 shot groups. That is not a big bother to me. The first 2 almost always touch and are always in the same place. Good enough for a hunting rifle. But if you want to shoot a small 5 shot group you will need a heavier barrel. I would have more confidence in a heavier barrel that grouped when hot. And the stock of the featherweight does not fit me as well as a gun with a comb. I would look at the sporting model if I were you.
 
I put in a steel trigger guard from Brownell's that matches the rest of the rifle perfectly.

I didn't even think of looking at an aftermarket trigger guard. I just looked at the prices and they're higher than I expected a trigger guard to be, cheapest one I found was $115. I'd probably just try to live with the aluminum trigger guard at those prices. Thank for the idea, anyway.
 
I do not think it cost that much back when I did it. Maybe 15 years ago. But it is nicely made and is probably worth that now. At that time I think I was looking for ways to spend a little money without actually buying another gun. So I did some minor "upgrades" to stuff that I already had that I liked.
 
I voted for the featherweight. The only model 70 I have owned was a sporter weight it was to heavy. I like a lighter rifle around 8#s field ready.
 
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