I'm setting up the dies for my 243 Win bolt gun. I'm working on setting the OAL length such that the bullet, when chambered, is just off the lands. I started out with the bullet barely in the case mouth and gradually turned the adjusting screw on the Lee Dead Length die until I got it down to what Lyman's says should be max OAL (2.71") From there, I painted the bullet with black marker and chambered the dummy round, ejected, and inspected for nicks in the black coloring. Then I turned down the bullet seater some more and repeated the whole process.
Am I doing this right? I "think" this is how I remember doing it for this gun 20 years ago, but I also seem to recall some method that involved putting a cleaning rod down the barrel with a round in the chamber and making some measurements.
What I've ended up with thus far is an 80 grain Speer Spitzer (flat base, soft point) with just a slight nick in the paint and an OAL of 2.696" (Lyman's says that projectile should be seated to 2.655" OAL.)
I suspect this is just a starting point. Is there anything else I should do here before I start loading cartridges?
Also, I have several different projectile weights; is there an easier way to do this going from projectile to projectile?
Good advice/knowledge in this thread about not loading a bullet that is not at least one bullet diameter into the neck. So, IF you eventually decide to continue doing it this way, start there so the bullet will be adequately supported.
Every change of bullet brand/type/weight requires re-measurement. Bullet lot change should be at least considered as a factor.
The way you are doing this is likely making marks/grooves on the bullet, which
can change your readings from read to read. It all depends upon how finite you need and want your measurements to be, but a simple change in technique should be considered.
If you do not want to buy tools cited below, then what you are doing will
work, taking note of what I have suggested herein. However, If you accidentally seat the bullet too deep you have to start over. Better to use tools. My experience has shown that one should keep the ends of the lands clean between measurements or the magic marker will throw off readings because it builds up on the tips of your lands. You should also clean the bore before firing for same reason.
You said "
ejected". Using the bolt to push the bullet ahead is not advised. There are various ways to do this and feel free to ask should you proceed doing it this way. You are looking for a point where you
just feel the bullet touch the lands. The extractor interferes with a sensitive touch feel.
Keep in mind that any mark left on the bullet from using magic marker is an indicator that you already have jam, albeit slight - keeping in mind that I shoot solely for accuracy, where every factor needs to be addressed. Key is
finding the lands and using your seater die to get jam or jump.
OAL, for the reloader's purposes, relates
primarily to what will feed through your magazine, if using one. SAAMI specs are written in such a way that in following them, the loads will fire in
any known firearm in their database. Precision bench shooters often shoot either single shot rifles or feed singly for several reasons-one of which is that their COAL is too long to feed through the magazine because they are extending the bullet out beyond SAAMI specs in order to get the jam/jump they are wanting . If you are shooting a Howa or Weatherby, things are different but I will assume you are not so will not address
Shooters typically find the lands and work both jump and jam from there, depending upon the results from their barrel, bullet, load, etc. when shooting ladder loads to find optimal accuracy loads. So finding your just "
nick" with a marker is one way. The Hornady gauge:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Hornady-Lock-N-Load-Overall-Length-Gauge-straight/2255374290?iid=222651569512
is well suited for doing what you are doing. If you choose not to get one,
I would use a wooden dowel, to avoid possibility of damaging the crown, which is, of course, the last thing the bullet sees. My experience tells me to clean the ends of the throat and lands well so you get a true reading that does not change from session to session as much. And, you don't want the ink to bake in the throat. However, do remember to recalculate when changing lot numbers and types/brands of bullets and at intervals of at least every several hundred rounds because the throat will erode, resulting in the need to grow your OAL. Not recalculating when changing bullets can result in serious pressure issues.
Buying a "
modified case" for each of your calibers would be advised. Cabelas has them. Coupled with the Hornady gauge this setup will help you a great deal, whether you add more equipment or not. The necks are slightly oversized for the caliber, so when the bullet touches the lands you can lock the tool, remove it and measure you OAL. This is a good investment, as are those referenced below but not everyone wants to purchase them so I am presenting both options. I would suggest you go to Youtube.com and watch a few videos of these tools in use.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Horn...-A-L-Gauge-Modified-Cases/731927.uts?slotId=0
After you find your lands and make whatever jam/jump changes you want, it is advisable to measure from the ogive of the bullet rather than COAL and record this. As I mention elsewhere, this reading will change as the throat erodes, which it will.
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/sear...rway=desc&search_query=746974+&submit_search=
This bullet comparator nut comes in two different types, with a mix of caliber sizes on each of the two...
so read carefully if you purchase, there are two from PTG and other companies use different assortment of bore diameters. If you get more than one, I would not use them interchangeably even though they have the same bore holes because they are not precision and will vary slightly, one from the other. Available through midwayusa.com, others as well. Rather than expound, please do look at them on line and see how these tools, along with a caliper, will make what you are doing so much easier.
Recording this number for each bullet type/brand/weight will be useful. If you want more info, please ask. I am sure I omitted something but do hope I at least answered your initial questions. Welcome to reloading! Good to have you aboard.
If you keep me advised as to the route you want to go...
Always here to help.