Setting up precision rifle handloading program

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CDignition

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Hi all..I have had progressive reloaders for years, but got out if it 5 years ago, and I have nothing...

I dont want to bother with reloading 9mm, with the Walmart WWB for 11 bux for 100 rounds, it just aint worth it..

But I have acquired a Sniper rifle in 308. I have 300 rounds of M118 Militry Long range match ammo, and I will save all that brass for handloads.

I want to get a nice simple setup...a single press would be fine, as im not going to do large volume.

I want to know, in 308, and a lesser extent .223, what is the best die /press set to get?? It would be nice to have carbide to reduce case lubing steps.


Also, I saw an ad for a powder dispenser, on TV, it throws a very accurate charge in 20 seconds...I dont know the brand, I think it was RCBS, but not sure..feedback??


anything else anyone cares to input would be appreciated..thanks

J
 
A Redding seating die with micrometer adjustment would be a good start, as well as a sizing die.

For low-volume, an RCBS powder measure and stand, when used in conjunction with a powder trickler and a beam-scale will get the job done nicely.

As for some of the little things that precision reloading requires, a flash-hole de-burring tool, a primer-pocket uniformer, and a hand-priming tool would be good to have. You will also need loading blocks, a powder funnel, a case trimmer (manual is fine for low-volume) and a set of dial-calipers.

As for the actual press, for what you described, any quality single-stage press will do.

Overall, you may want to look into the RCBS Rockchucker kits, as they come with many or most of the "essentials" you would need.
 
You aren't going to get out of the case lubing, AFAIK, carbide dies are only available for straight walled cases. Thumbs up on the RCBS kit. The Lee Anniversary kit only costs about 1/3 of the RCBS kit, throw the scale at your cat, and spend $60 for a decent scale, and you can get by with it. I use the Lee press for priming, and the Rockchucker for sizing and seating. I probably still have the Lee powder measure and scale in a box somewhere. I retired the RCBS 505 scale also and replaced it with a Redding Model 2, much more sensitive and accurate. With the climbing prices on individual items, the kits look more attractive all the time.
 
Sorry you won't get out of case lubing the first time around, but after that you can use one of the neck sizeing dies. I just dip my case necks in graphite, neck size, wipe them off, and they're ready for the next step.

For my 223 bolt gun, I FL size new brass, and thereafter neck size. I use the Hornady shoulder bump neck sizer with interchangable bushings for neck tension. The only down side is that the necks should be "peeled" first, which is rather time consuming, but a one-time operation.

I also de-burr the flash holes on the inside, and true the pocket itself- again, takes time, but only once.

After spending all this time with my brass, it gets to be my friend, and I take good care of it. It's my match and praire dog brass- basically places I won't loose it. I also have "expendable" brass, which is accurate, but not as finely tuned- that's what I hunt with.

Like they always say, if you neck size, make sure that brass goes back in the same gun.

I agree that a single-stage press is the way to go for low-volume, highly accurate loads. I use a single for match ammo, and a multi-station for blasting ammo.

Have fun!
Doug
 
M118LR is not the best brass in the world it is not match brass. I would invest in in some Lapua 308 brass. I have 10 reloads on one lot of brass. They still are going strong!
I would be buy Redding Dies, at a min. I would buy the Deluxe Set, comes with FL & Neck Sizer Dies, and a regular seater. I like the carbide expander ball upgrade. I really would suggest getting a Type S Neck Sizer and the 339 and 336 bushing to size your brass if you use Lapua brass.

I got RCBS and get the Rochucker Supreme Kit. I would buy a Wilson Trimmer. A person will always need a balance beam scale to back up any electronic scale. You can use the powder measure to dump a charge, then trickle up the charge on the scale.

The 308 is as accurate a cartridge with out tweaking much!
 
"As for the actual press, for what you described, any quality single-stage press will do."

Not always! There are presses and then there are better presses. Then there's the best! As far as I'm concerned, that is the forster co-ax,(formerly Bonanza). With forster or Redding dies, this press will produce ammo with little or no runnout.

image1_8.jpg


The dies slide in and out, no more screwing! No shell holders needed, the automatic shell holder plates self align as the brass enters the die. It's called the co-ax because the rods guide the shell platform, keeping it in alignment through out the entire stroke.
 
If I were going to set-up new for nothing larger than .308, I'd go with the RCBS Junior - or any single-stage press except Lee. For a die set I'd get a Redding bushing-type neck die, a Redding body die to do shoulder bumps & FL sizing, and a Forester Benchrest seater. Redding makes a shellholder set that allows you to adjust for headspace. it is very handy.
A good reliable scale, you'll probably want to weigh all charges at first, anyway. There are a variety of propellants for .308 (I don't load .223) that are excellent, Varget has given me the lowest ES of all.

If you want to craft the best rounds you can, don't try to "cheap" on anything. Invest in good brass, prep it carefully, use "benchrest" primers, and match grade bullets.

Good luck,

Tom
 
Unless you are going to go with a bushing neck die, I think a sizing die with a carbide expander ball is a big plus and worth the extra $$. I use a competition seating die (micrometer adjust is handy, but you get the same results at the end of the day), but have had standard seating dies that gave me as-good results. Crimp is not necessary, although sometimes a rifle will shoot better with a little bit. Honestly, you shouldn't have any problem getting under 1MoA with a standard, off-the-shelf set of dies.

A case gage is essential for setting full length resizing dies. I like the RCBS Precision Case Mic. Stoney point makes a good one too. Check Sinclair International for all sorts of cool handloading tools and gages.

M118LR brass should be fine. From a quality standpoint, it's really no different than standard Lake City brass. I like to uniform the primer pockets and deburr the flashholes. I would also pitch any case that gives me a flier on a target.

For case prep tools (trim, deburr, flashhole deburr, primer pocket uniform), I would make sure you get something that either has a motor or can be driven with a cordless drill. I use a Lee hand trimmer ($6) and a 1/2" chuck drill and it works quickly and consistantly. Handles and hand cranks? :barf:

I use a Harrell powder measure, but RCBS and Redding work fine too. You aren't going to see much if any benefit from measuring each charge until you get out to 500 or 600yds. Ball powders meter nicely, but that doesn't work out to be much of an advantage on paper as you'd think. Extruded (stick) powders are much more insensitive to temperature and I value that more. Varget and the VhitaV powders are excellent.

Bullets are most important. Match bullets give match results, although I have found that the 125gr Speer TNT bullet shoots realllllly nice for half the price out of a 1:12" twist barrel (1MoA @ $50/500), plus the recoil is low.

Ty
 
Expander ball = runout.

FORGET EVERYTHING you've ever read about handloading.

Call Sinclair's (www.sinclairintl.com), and get their handloading manual. It doesn't have recipes in it, but it does tell you how to use the equipment.

Get a Redding sizing die that takes the different neck sizing buttons. Adjust it to barely bump FL size the case.

A Partner press will work fine. So will others.

To seat, order a Wilson seater from Sinclair's. Be prepared to send it and a coupla-three fired cases back to Wilson's. You'll need some sort of arbor press, but you can make one with a few pieces of wood and a bolt.

Wilson case trimmer - dead nuts accurate.

RCBS/Wilson chamfer/debur tool.

You're also going to need a carbide primer pocket uniformer - you'll also use it to clean.

You aren't going to need to do anything to the primer holes in that Lapua brass.

Use 0000 steel wool to clean the case necks.

Imperial die wax for sizing lube - just wipe it off when you're through.

IMR 4895 for .308 powder. A Lee Perfect measure will work fine. Get an old-fashioned balance beam scale - they're more reliable than the digital ones.

With a factory chamber (even some sorta "custom shop" factory...), you're not going to need to neck turn that Lapua brass.

Oh yeah - shoot good bullets. Sierra Matchkings, Walt Berger's (he's still going strong - saw him at the pointblank nationals) VLDs, or even something like Brady Knight's flatbases (saw a group that Tooley shot with 'em - you could cover it with your hand without a lot of stretching).
 
With what bullet weight?

Use the right quantity for your bullet. Tune the rifle at 200 yards, with some wind indicators. Shoot off sandbags for testing.

Start out at maximum magazine length (unless it's a single shot - then start at jam). Load three rounds at each load. Start at the starting load (load 3 extra as foulers), then three more with one grain more powder, etc... Look at where the vertical dispersion goes away. Those are your accurate nodes, where the barrel whip on firing has died down at one end of the swing.

Then do another set with the bullet seated about 0.005" deeper in the case.

You may be surprised at the differences you'll see.
 
With what bullet weight?
Click to expand...

My M118LR load consists of the following:

M118LR brass
Lapua 170gr D46 bullet
Winchester WLR primer
42.5gr IMR4895 pulldown powder
2.845 OAL (mag feeds in my FN SPR)

Start lower and work your way up when using 168-175gr bullets with this load.

Don
 
Suggest you get a single stage cast-iron "O" design tool of any make, second-hand or new...the cast iron Lee is fine, but the aluminum tools can spring slightly when full-length resizing large cases.
 
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