several 50bmg reloading questions

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hornadylnl

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I'm looking at getting started at loading 50bmg. I'll start by saying that I'm not wanting to load max loads, I just want consistant loads. I will probably hand measure each load. How many times can I fire each case? I'll be buying once fired. I read somewhere that you can fire a case 3 times before you have to trim it. Is there any truth to that? I plan to buy the Lee 50bmg case trimmer pilot. I don't have a regular case trimmer now.

Also, several places sell unsized pulled bullets. What would you use to resize them? I've read where people are using the lee bullet sizer kits to resize pulled .224 bullets. Would you be able to size a 50 bullet with the lee .510 sizer kit? I'm thinking it would take a heck of a pull on the press handle to size it.

I'll probably use surplus powder but will try to buy several jugs of the same lot number of powder for consistancy. I'm planning on going with the Lee Classic 50 bmg kit as well. Are the primers crimped on military 50bmg cases? What do you use to swage them?

If any of you could post your load data using surplus components, I'd appreciate it. My Hornady book only shows commercial powders. TIA
 
How long cases will last depends on your particular rifle's chamber and how hot you load your ammo. Neck sizing and annealing will extend it's life in any event. For bolt guns, I've read of people going as much as 10 reloads.

If you shoot a beltfed, then controlling your barrel headspace will definitely extend case life along with annealing after every firing. Most of my M2HB brass will make 5-6 reloads before it shows signs of failure.

Before starting to anneal, I was only getting 5-6 loads from my bolt gun brass and 2-3 from my M2HB brass.

You might be able to get away with not trimming right away, but it will depend on your rifles chamber. I trim everytime now that I have a Giraud electric trimmer, but previously only did it every 2-3 times.

Lee's bullet sizer works fine, and they'll make a custom sizer for you too if you require such. Don't be stingy with the lube!

Here's a good review of the Lee .50bmg products:
http://members.cox.net/~rjring/

Military brass primers are either crimped or staked into place. You can use either a swage or chamfer cutter to remove them.
CH4D.com makes a press mounted swaging stem that should work with the Lee setup.
I use an RCBS chamfer tool chucked into a mini-lathe. The K&P primer pocket 'uniformer' is very popular as well. (they make other popular case prep toos as well: K&P Gun Co. (505)445-1311)

If you plan to shoot tracer projectiles, then surplus IMR5010 is the better choice for positive ignition. It burns hotter than the WC860 that would otherwise be used. 5010's a stick powder and 860 a ball powder, so WC860 measures a lot easier from a rotory powder drop.

With any of the .50bmg powders, a good starting point is 210-215gr of powder with bullets in the 650-750gr range. For my rifles, 225gr is max.
For 800gr or heavier bullets, the slower 20mm and VV20N29 powders will work better. There is some experimentation going on with the new US869 and surplus WC868 in this application too.
M48a1-2 'spotter' bullets should be kept to light loads, to avoid exceeding the design specs. 170-190gr of IMR5010 is what's usually found for them.

lee_setup_00.jpg
 
Would the 860 surplus be better to use than 5010 surplus? I've read where surplus stick powder grains can break and cause pressure problems so they said stay away from surplus stick powder. Any truth to that?

Are you pleased with your Lee 50 kit? I won't be able to shoot enough to justify spending $400+ on a reloading setup for 50bmg. If I had to spend that much, I'd be just as well of buying loaded surplus ammo. I called RVO and they gave me a price of $75 for 100 brass. I'm not sure if that was once fired or processed price. From what I've seen, ebay is about the best price for brass.

What exactly is the process of annealing? I know a little about metalurgy but have never done any annealing on brass? What do you have to do to anneal brass?
 
Sorry, I didn't notice the link to annealing in your post. I just read through most of that article and it looks like it would be a little out of my league. If I were to watch a pro do a few, I'm sure I could figure it out.
 
I've never had any problems with stick powder. The IMR5010 is a little more accurate in my guns than the WC860, but it takes a little more work to measure it out than the 860. If you're just loading plinking ammo, the WC860 is the better deal right now.

I primarily use a Hornady .50bmg press with CH4D dies for my target ammo.
The Lee I use to load my M2HB ammo and to form DTC brass. It's a very good press for the money. It's got it's quirks, but nothing that's a show stopper.

If RVOW is selling processed/primed brass for .75, that's a pretty good deal in today's market! All you'd have to do is add powder and a projo.

Here's a .50 manufacture that sells a complete loading kit based on the Lee press: http://www.50bmg.net/product.asp?specific=jnomppi4
 
Thanks for the info. I already have most of that stuff. I have a regular Hornady measure. I've found where I can get the kit to convert that measure over to the 50 bmg measure for around $50 or the complete 50 measure for a little over $80. I think I will hand measure each charge into my scale for the time being. I'm just wondering if the cup for my Hornady scale will hold 200+ grains of powder. I'll probably only be loading in batches of 100 so time won't be a huge issue for me.

Will the Lee dies work in the Hornady 50 press? From what I've read, only Lee dies will work in the Lee 50 bmg press.
 
Will the Lee dies work in the Hornady 50 press? From what I've read, only Lee dies will work in the Lee 50 bmg press.

You'd need a bushing adapter. May very well be that Lee offers one, but you'd have to call and ask.

I do know that Corbin's offers an adapter, but it's 89.00:
http://www.corbins.com/chp-b2.htm

I believe that CH4D makes a 1.5" to 1.25" bushing too, but it's not listed in their on-line catalog. Again, you'd have to call and ask.
 
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