Sharpest Production Knife Out of the Box?

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surprisingly (to me) the sharpest, out of the box pocket knife i've got is a cheap-o Buck folder. Will clean shave in one pass. I dunno how well it will HOLD an edge. I would say my best edge holding knive is my Case XX Trapper. I also have a super sharp S&W non-folder with a slight curved blade that is sharp enough to cut you without feeling it to. I keep it in my toolbox at work to make PB&J sandwiches with :)
 
Mora No-Guard Knives

I've got a Mora #1 that I am actually scared to use. It has no guard and the way the blade meets the handle there is a smooth transition from smooth wood right to razor sharp steel across about 1mm. It's a safe queen. The Eriksson above is the same knife basically but with a guard and a bit of a pommel on the end.

The standard Mora #1, #2, and so on are "guardless" knives.

That design has been around since . . . pretty much forever.

In Scandinavia (including Finland) there's been this tradition for generations that a Mora-style knife with a guard is a boy's knife, whereas once he has learned how to properly handle a knife, either the guard is removed, or the knife is replaced with a guardless one. Kind of a rite of passage into adulthood.

If you think about it a bit, there are a number of applications where a guard just gets in the way (think camp kitchen, cutting board, that kind of thing). Your kitchen knives don't have guards for that very reason. Likewise, look at the skinners and other butcher knives used by professionals. No guard. (Some of the newer models do have handles with grooves and/or side flanges to keep your fingers off the edge.)

The traditional Mora knife isn't intended for stabbing, nor are other traditional Nordic designs (e.g. Puukko, Leuku).

It's not difficult to train or learn a safe technique with guardless knives. In fact, a guardless knife is actually safer when it's really sharp than when it's dull, so you would want a Mora knife to be scary sharp.

On the other hand, if you expect to be stabbing or doing other point-force work with a knife, then the traditional Nordic design is not the best choice.

 
not the sharpest blade

"Once upon a time" -Blackjack had the reputation of being sharp, right out of the box.

Members; what is their reputation in 2009?

Arfin: That Scandanavian viewpoint holds for utility that those people esteem.
However, when Col. Applegate and the OSS investigated knives for the purpose they had in mind, they required guards; for daggers, to prevent the field agents from accidently disabling their own hands by running their palms and fingers upon the blades.

My own preference is to have a knife I can use for many purposes.
A compromise for certain. So my knives do not excell in special applications.
My sharpest is a Lapin Puukko; without guard, but large handle for good gripping. Followed by a Bark River; convex edge. It re/polishes / sharpens readily.
{Sigh} There seems to be no perfect knife.
Oh well, now, I don't have to yearn and buy every one I lay my eyes upon.

And so, comes the mention of those blade angles; small ones to get a razor edge, and wider ones to give sturdy field use. And in between to get, well, in between service. Sharp for straight razors is not sharp for survival edges.
 
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Absolutely, James, the edge must be suited to the use. That's why I prefer either convex or micro-bevelled edges. If the angle turns out to be too long, it's easy to reset the micro-bevel or final edge angle. Much easier than it is to lay an obtuse angle back for a more razor like edge.

I purposely allow my blade angle to change a degree or 2 while sharpening. I start'em out as flat as I can manage, and on the final stone, steepen it slightly to create the micro-bevel.

You've REALLY got to abuse a convex edge to chip it out. I really think the factory edges on most pocket knife blades is far too steep.

J
 
Arfin

Yes I agree. I believe that the traditional Scandanavian knives were designed (and are used) on the pull stroke. That's why the Leukkos and Puukos as well as the Moras haven't got guards. I specifically wanted the #1 because it was traditional. I am not knocking that style. In fact I find it very pleasing on several levels. On the other hand, I was raised "American style" when it comes to knives and other stuff so I expect, as you say, that I lack the proper technique to use such a knife in rough service safely. Bad cuts to the hand can cause permanent damage so, yep, I am a little scared to use it much. I have several of the "modern" Mora's (Craftsmen series and a Morakniv 2000) with more handle so I do get to enjoy the craftsmanship and the crazy sharpeness of the technology.

I do hope to own a Puuko and Leuko someday...and I am sure I will...so I got some learning to do to be safe.

QB
 
Guards

James sez:
However, when Col. Applegate and the OSS investigated knives for the purpose they had in mind, they required guards; for daggers, to prevent the field agents from accidently disabling their own hands by running their palms and fingers upon the blades.

Yes, I know:
On the other hand, if you expect to be stabbing or doing other point-force work with a knife, then the traditional Nordic design is not the best choice.

I have fighters. They all have guards. They are all (excepting the Glock Sharpened Crowbar™) satisfactorily sharp. (Reminds me, I gotta sell that Glock.) Not absurdly sharp, though.

As you said, "sharp" in one context isn't necessarily (or even desirably) "sharp" in another.



I remembered last night what was the sharpest production knife I've ever owned: a Holley Wharcliffe Whittler. Carbon steel. Bought for me by my grandparents before the Holley plant closed its knifemaking operation. I used to trim my nails with it. I could cleanly trim a fingernail without leaving burr or spur on the nail. I could lay a newspaper out, run one of the pen blades over the outline of an article, and lift it out without having cut the page below it (Dad taught me that). I've never had a knife since that was as sharp out of the box -- never mind sixteen years after it was in the box. Yeah. Made no later than 1949 -- the year I was born -- when Holley closed down. Given to me when I was sixteen. Sharpest new blade I've ever owned.

(I have this private obsession to own another such wharny whittler. There have been a couple modernly produced, e.g. Case XX "Classic" Wharncliffe Whittler. Very like the Seahorse Whittler, except the Classic has two pen blades, where the Seahorse has a pen and a coping blade.)

 
Mora. No question about it.

And believe me, there really is no need to worry about your hand slipping...unless you decide to stab something solid, like a table or a wall, with full force.

There is one problematic and potentially dangerous thing about some Finnish knives (Tommi for example), though. The ones with a leather sheath sometimes require a correct technique when you draw the knife, especially when they are brand new. If you do not know it, there is a risk that you will cut yourself or ruin the sheath - probably both.
 
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Spyderco

Out of the production blades I have (including Kershaws, Gerbers, Bucks, a SOG, CRKTs, some SAKs, a Sebenza, etc.) I would say Spydercos are easily the sharpest out of the box.
 
I'm a big fan of Benchmade. The blue series knives are very sharp out if the box. I'm currently carrying a Benchmade Osborne, and it was really sharp out of the box.
 
From my limited experience:

Bark River knives are deceptively sharp - it must be the convex edge.

Bear MGC , made here in AL, range from 'Is that really a knife?' to 'Dude, you need to sharpen this!'. Seriously poor QC.

Benchmades are hit or miss, sharpness wise. I love my Rukus, but it is not a shaver. My Skirmish, mini-Skirmish, and even the 760 were fairly sharp, however.

Boker Tree Brand (German made classics) are very sharp slippies.

Bucks - all US-made I've bought - especially the 110 - come razor sharp.

Gerbers (US made.) are neither consistently edged nor impressively sharp.

Kershaws come very sharp. My JYDII in Ti/SG-2 came sharper than any knife I've ever bought.

Pumas (German made.) are fairly sharp.

Spyderco, if my pair of S30V Natives are an indicator, come very sharp.

Vic SAKs come uniformly sharp.

Stainz
 
might be cheating but a boker infinity ceramic get out the high power magnifying glass no steel blade can compare
 
Seems like "sharp" is a relevant term,judging by all the different choices.
So my sharp knife choice would be a Buck 110, folding knife. It`s sharp enough for what I do. :)
 
Straight Razor

Well, I have a new "sharpest knife."

:D

Last night I finally found my old "First Class" brand straight razor. It was a Cutlery World brand from the early eighties. Made in Solingen, Germany. (Picture to follow -- gotta dig up camera.)

I bought this one in 1982 to replace the one I lost when I returned from England ten years earlier.

I haven't shaved with it in about three, maybe four, years.

I will have to be more careful in my use of the term "razor sharp" because, frankly, there's not a knife I own -- and I own some sharp ones -- that is anything like as sharp as this thing.

Guess it's time to break out the Edge Pro Apex and see how close I can get with one of my better knives.

 
Mine was a Benchmade McHenry-Williams large axis folder with the M2 steel.

I sliced open my finger the first time I opened it - you would have thought it was a razor blade instead of a knife blade.
 
My sharpest by far has been a J. Marttiini. My dad also has a J. Marttiini fillet knife that has always been scary sharp, and I don't think he had to work on it at all. Seems as though the Scandinavian made knives are made very well.
 
William Henry folders are extremely sharp, at least the ones I have but the sharpest, production knife, is the Puukko from Karesuando of Sweden and the various ceramic knives come a very close second...
 
I just got the Knives of Alaska fillet models with small and LARGE blades in one BIG sheath. They are scary sharp out of the sheath! I used the large blade to clean several Redfish at the camp, and was amazed at the edge after cutting thru the scales and bones to get the fillets! They come with a small diamond sharpener that I will never use. It is so small it is a guarantee finger scar. I use an old butchers steel on my knives when the edge needs cleaning up. A good knife rarely if ever needs any abrasive sharpening if used as intended. I have never been able to duplicate the sharpness of the old Buck 110 folders from the 60s.
 
Buck Sharpness

I have never been able to duplicate the sharpness of the old Buck 110 folders from the 60s.

Funny you should say that.

Saturday I spoke to the owner of a local knife shoppe here in CdA, noticing he's down to a single Buck knife.

When I asked him if he had the other Bucks in a different section, he said no, that was his last one, and he wasn't stocking any more. Naturally, I asked why.

"I won't sell a knife I can't sharpen."

Evidently, he's had some bad experiences with the amount of time and effort (and stone) required to restore the edge on a Buck. He asserts the steel is just too hard, claiming it's got a Rockwell number in the low 60s. The man actually sounded bitter.

Buck's documentation claims a hardness of 58.

Now, to be fair, I've never actually lost the edge of any of my Bucks to the point where I needed to stone them, so I don't have comparative data.

The only one I couldn't fix was screwed up when it came to me (an old two-spring 301), so I took it to the factory for sharpening and polishing ($5), after which it was good as new.

A friend of mine in Nevada had an old beat-up 112 he hadn't been able to sharpen, so I brought it back with me and took it to the factory. They simply offered to replace it with a brand new one, which he now has.

One of these days I reckon I will find out first-hand whether a Buck is really that hard to sharpen. Mine are all still factory sharp.

 
I spent alot of time sharpening my 103 back when I first got it, about 15 years ago. They're far from impossible to sharpen, but can be a bit time consuming.

It's not the hardness of the steel that's the problem, it's the weird, i dunno, smudginess? of the steel that I had trouble with.... Certainly, though, it's easier to sharpen a very hard 1095 blade. It was about as difficult as a D2 blade, but completely different...

J
 
Different Steel

Talking with some of the Buck guys, I was told that previously they had used 440C in most of their blades, but it was "awfully hard on the machinery."

So, more recently (and I don't know how recently) they had switched to 420HC, which is evidently easier on the machinery in the stages prior to heat treat.

Current literature claims 420HC, excepting for their specialty and custom pieces.

I guess I'm gonna have to corner one of their guys again and have him explain this "hard to sharpen" thing. I've seen it enough now that I'm beginning to think there's something to it.

 
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