Shooting glue sticks.

[Bwana John]

I have been reloading .45acp with glue sticks.
I found that .44 caliber works best in a .45.
I drill out the primer hole to 1/8' and am using Large Rifle primers.
The glue stick are engaging the rifling and are very accurate to 75 ft.
At point blank they penetrate 7 layers of heavy cardboard.
At 10 feet they go strait through an empty Coke can.
They feed through the mag if I load them so ~1/8" of gluestick sticks out beyond the case mouth.
They are much quieter than just poping the primer, I can shoot them almost anywhere.
After 150 rounds I see no sign of plastic fouling, and have experienced no problems with real ammo after shooting them.

I had more fun shooting on the last camping trip than I usually have with the family around.

Anybody else try this? WAY more fun, more accurate, cleaner, and much harder hitting than wax bullets!

 

[Floppy_D]

Sorta. I bought a set of molds to fill with hot glue, and cast my own reuseable .358 and .452 hot-glue bullets. I reckon just cutting them would be easier. And yes, they punch through cardboard or soda cans at short ranges.

Good times, I ought to try just the cut glue sticks instead of melting them all down for injection molding.

 

[orrwdd]

Some people have waaaaaaay to much time on their hands

 

[UpTheIrons]

Some people have waaaaaaay to much time on their hands

Yeah, but those people can also "go to the range" in the garage when it is raining, too. Works great when there is no other indoor range nearby.

 

[Jeff H]

Anybody else try this?

Yes but slightly different than you. I used regular LP primers and didn't drill out the flash hole in case I wanted the cases for reloading some day. Just shove a glue stick in the case and cut off flush.
The round would do considerable fracturing to a piece of 1/4" plywood at 15', but wouldn't penetrate. nice and quiet fun. I can shoot them in the basement and no one in the house really notices the noise vs my usual noise in the workshop

Good cheap fun, but I haven't done it in a year or so, maybe sometime soon.

 

[Maj Dad]

I use paraffin blocks - just push the case over the block (around 3/8" - 1/2" thick or so) & presto: loaded round. You can prime before or after, but after makes pushing the case easier. You do need to drill out the primer or risk binding the cylinder, at least on my Ruger SBH 44 mag. They will dent old weathered clapboards at 20 yds and smack the hades out of wild dogs terrorizing your pets & other animals. They are definitely not toys.

 

[Oyeboten]

Sounds like fun...


I had some old .38 Special Blanks one time...thought I would try one, and, just for fun I put a Dixon 'Ticonderoga' No. 2 Pencil in the Barrel to see how well it would shoot.

Wow, it felt like a .357 Hottie.


That was NOT a good idea, I realized...


Pencil was a spray of fine splinters was all.


Glue Sticks over a Primer...much more sane...much more easy going...

 

[mallc]

Air Soft?

Airsoft has come a long way over the last few years. I have a couple of green gas powered semi-auto blow back pistols that are the same weight and configuration as full size 1911 and FNFiveSeven. These are very accurate for indoor use and are really cheap to shoot.

Anyone looking for cheap practice should give them a look.

Scott

 

[Sport45]

I drill out the primer hole to 1/8" (fixed it ) and am using Large Rifle primers.

I'd stick with LP or LPM primers. The large rifle primers are taller and may not seat flush in a .45acp case.

 

[dagger dog]

Bwana,

You could get yourself into a real sticky situation shooting those things.