Lone_Gunman
Member
Will shooting bullets with an edge (ie, a JHP or truncated cone style flat point) cause problems with the feed ramps of an aluminum framed 1911? Will the edge cut into the frame?
Shooting JHP's and flat point bullets through 1911s with aluminum frames
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Lone_Gunman
Member
I knew the metal follower was a problem with aluminum frames, and that is why I was wondering about the bullets themselves. How is the bullet not a problem if the follower right under it is?
Zerodefect
member
The follower is sharper.
The bullet is softer than the steel follower and the bullet and ramp are at an angle to each other.
I've never seen a follower scratch up the ramp, but I've seen them dig into the frame under the ramp.
My Kimber CDP's ramp seems polished alittle from shooting but no real wear from rounds slideing up it.
The bullet is softer than the steel follower and the bullet and ramp are at an angle to each other.
I've never seen a follower scratch up the ramp, but I've seen them dig into the frame under the ramp.
My Kimber CDP's ramp seems polished alittle from shooting but no real wear from rounds slideing up it.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Early JHP designs would and did damage Commander feed ramps. Especially if someone had polished the hard anodizing off of them.
The alloy ramp would gets dings and divots all over it from the sharp edge of the JHP hitting them.
Most modern bullet designs are more forgiving.
However, there are some JHP, like the Remington GS that are almost Ball ammo shaped and are especially unlikely to hurt the ramp.
rc
The alloy ramp would gets dings and divots all over it from the sharp edge of the JHP hitting them.
Most modern bullet designs are more forgiving.
However, there are some JHP, like the Remington GS that are almost Ball ammo shaped and are especially unlikely to hurt the ramp.
rc
Lone_Gunman
Member
RC,
do you think the encapsulated truncated cone FMJ made by Hornady would damage the feed ramps?
do you think the encapsulated truncated cone FMJ made by Hornady would damage the feed ramps?
Here's some ways to deal with followers and alloy ramps:
1) Buy Wilson or Tripp magazines with the long skirted followers made of polymer (plastic).
2) OR, buy the Tripp "SUPER7" rebuild-kits that include one of their hybrid followers (has a steel insert at the step for positive slide-stop actuation and long life, unlike the wilson) and a ISMI chrome-silicon spring. $8 each for 5 or more. Can insert in any magazine body out there I have found. Cheaper than $35 each for a new magazine, and just about as good unless you have really bad magazines with weak bodies or feed lips.
1) Buy Wilson or Tripp magazines with the long skirted followers made of polymer (plastic).
2) OR, buy the Tripp "SUPER7" rebuild-kits that include one of their hybrid followers (has a steel insert at the step for positive slide-stop actuation and long life, unlike the wilson) and a ISMI chrome-silicon spring. $8 each for 5 or more. Can insert in any magazine body out there I have found. Cheaper than $35 each for a new magazine, and just about as good unless you have really bad magazines with weak bodies or feed lips.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Not a chance.
As noted, the problem was with the early, very wide, very sharp HP designs like the "Flying Ashtray" years ago.
Most current .45 ACP JHP are not shaped like that anymore and should not hurt a thing.
rc
The Lone Haranguer
Member
If you're really fussy ...
Cylinder & Slide - Install steel feed ramp insert in alloy frame
Cylinder & Slide - Install steel feed ramp insert in alloy frame
Lone_Gunman
Member
I am glad it didnt hurt your gun. Nevertheless, I have a Lightweight Commander and the lower part of the feed ramp is dinged up a little from using magazines with metal followers before I knew better. It does not affect function, but I would rather it not look banged up.
For preventing damage to the feed ramp from the mag follower on alloy 1911 guns:
1) Only use 7 rd mags with 13 coil springs (Wolff extra power springs) and milspec followers - they support the rear leg of the follower so it can't come forward and hit the feed ramp.
2) Better: use Tripp Research spring and follower kits.
3) Metalform round followers are safe.
Ammo:
1) Ball ammo is OK.
2) Plated truncated cone is OK.
3) Plated hollow points are OK like Speer Gold Dots.
4) Hollow points where the jacket curves into the cavity are OK like most of the Winchester Ranger loads and Federal Hydrashok.
5) Don't use +P ammo. Not only does it abuse the frame in recoil, it increases the forward velocity of the slide making the next round hit the feed ramp harder.
The 7075 alloy used by Kimber and others ??? is harder than the older 6061 used by Colt and is a bit more resistant to damage.
Anodizing is a microscopically thin coating on the surface of the feed ramp. It will resist abrasion a bit but will not protect against impact.
1) Only use 7 rd mags with 13 coil springs (Wolff extra power springs) and milspec followers - they support the rear leg of the follower so it can't come forward and hit the feed ramp.
2) Better: use Tripp Research spring and follower kits.
3) Metalform round followers are safe.
Ammo:
1) Ball ammo is OK.
2) Plated truncated cone is OK.
3) Plated hollow points are OK like Speer Gold Dots.
4) Hollow points where the jacket curves into the cavity are OK like most of the Winchester Ranger loads and Federal Hydrashok.
5) Don't use +P ammo. Not only does it abuse the frame in recoil, it increases the forward velocity of the slide making the next round hit the feed ramp harder.
The 7075 alloy used by Kimber and others ??? is harder than the older 6061 used by Colt and is a bit more resistant to damage.
Anodizing is a microscopically thin coating on the surface of the feed ramp. It will resist abrasion a bit but will not protect against impact.
Never had an issue witha 50's vintage Colt Lightweight Commander and stock Colt magazines, though the early Hydra-shock would slow the slide velocity down some. Silvertips and truncated cone flat points and SWC's fed just fine.
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