Shooting Steel -- handgun

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RB98SS

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I have a couple questions for you guys shooting steel.

I purchased a 10" AR500 steel plate recently and am planning on shooting it with various handguns. I have the plate hanging from chains that are attached to two bolts on the back side of the plate so it hangs tilted downward. I am hanging it from a steel rebar frame that will be driven into the ground as close to the berm as I can. My question's are... Is it safe to shoot the plate with jacketed hollowpoint rounds of 10mm and 357sig? I will also be shooting 44mag and 357mag but these will be lead. Is 35 yards far enough distance?

Thanks.
 
We usually consider 11 yds adequate distance for shooting steel poppers and plates with handgun rounds.
 
Yes, you're fine for shooting jacketed. And 35 yards is more distance than you need.

Look at the minimums for shooting at steel for IPSC and IDPA. I don't have my IPSC rule book handy but IDPA is a minimum of 10 yards. Shooters at these events typically shoot jacketed rounds without issue when the targets are in good condition. And with using AR500 in your case "good condition" will not be an issue. You'll get many, many years of handgun caliber use from that target other than when you take out the chain and bolt heads used for holding the target up.

Watch for straight on hits on the bolt heads that produce a "crater". Change such bolts right away. It's the rounded craters that have the potential for "U" turning the rounds back and potentially causing some lead or jacket to "spray" the firing line.

This issue with the bolt heads is why my local club that shoots monthly Speed Steel events does not use bolts and chains. Instead the armor plate targets are drilled and the targets simply hang on re-bar hooks bent into the top of the stands. Spatter from the rounds hitting the target therefore doesn't hit any angled "divots" in any bolt heads and end up reflecting back. It just hits the re-bar and deflects in the same plane as the rest of the spatter.

When watching folks shooting these targets often the jackets can be seen arcing up and away from the targets. But the direction is always more or less in the plane of the target face. So there's no safety concern AS LONG AS THE FACE IS CLEAN AND CRATER FREE and there's nothing on the face of the target or sticking out of the target that is angled such as to reflect back any of the spatter.

So all in all I'd suggest that you modify the target stand to just "hook" the plate onto re-bar hooks that stick out and that the hooks have shallow bends in them. That'll likely end up being less trouble and more reflection free by avoiding any issues of damaged bolt heads.

Be aware that there is some east European ammo out there that has steel cores and steel jackets. I doubt that the steel jackets are an issue but steel core ammo is something to be avoided. Not only will it run the risk of cratering even the AR500 but steel against steel has a far, far greater risk of reflecting back to the shooting line. It almost certainly won't be an issue with .357 and .44Mag but if you have anyone visiting and shooting at your target with 9mm then it's something to watch for. We've run into some of this ammo locally and it's very dangerous to use with steel backstops or steel targets. The same warning would apply to any steel shot shells. Lead target loads used on a steel plate at around 10 yards makes for a really nice ringing sound when hit and is just fine from a safety aspect. Any pellets that do come back are greatly reduced in power. But shooting any steel shot at a steel target is a gauanteed way of finding out what a duck feels like when being shot at.
 
Thanks guys for the quick responses.

BC, I'm reloading so I don't have any worries about the steel core or jacked ammo. How about one more question... What about shooting FMJ TMJ bullets as such is common in 45ACP? My son has a 45 and he most likely would like to shoot the steel also.

Thanks again.
 
Same deal. They spatter with the lead and generally much of the jacket flying out in a "sheet" of side spatter that is along the same face as the target. FMJ and TMJ is just another way of describing "jacketed". The copper or brass skins still split open on impact and allow the inner lead core to spatter. The ripped open jackets will just be a little bigger and easier to see arcing off to the sides.

Shoot the steel for a few hundred rounds and you'll find a little ditch or rut of cut dirt along the base of the target that is in line with the face of the plate. It'll be about 3 to 4 inches wide with very little sign of spatter impact outside of that rut. From what I've seen you'll find that about 95% of the spatter will be in that plane with the other 5% not veering off by more than a few degrees from that line. The split open jackets that arc upwards may be found up to maybe 5 feet in front of the target depending on how much tilt the plate has. When you see the first few arc up and over you'll realize that they have about the same energy as if you lobbed the torn jacket up with your hand to allow it to reach about 10 to 15 feet height before falling back. Magnum rounds may be strong enough to see them hit 20 to 25 feet of height. Because of this maybe magnums would be better to shoot at 15 yards or more. at least until you can confirm that there's no spatter coming back to the firing line.

Having said this I've felt the odd bit of "mosquito bite" when shooting around steel. THose of us that do have all felt it at some point. Nothing that's enough to break any skin or even leave a mark or any sort of impact pain that is more than momentary. But then that's why we wear safety glasses on the range, right? It happens but it's not of any sort of power that would in any way be called a safety risk. Revolvers typically spit powder and bits of lead out the cylinder gaps that are more risky and cause as much or more pain when felt.
 
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