Shooting target frame - Stainless

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Jul 25, 2020
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I purchased some 1/4 inch 316 stainless rod and had a local welder make a target frame for me. The cheap frame I had was made of steal and at most 1/8 inch. I had times when the cheap frame wouldn't even drive into the ground. So, I had the heavier frame built. My question is, will the 316 stainless rod hold up to being hit by bullets, 9mm, .357 or .556 rifle? I'm sure I will find out when I use it but thought I'd ask you guys.
 
I agree, no it won't hold up to hits from any of those.

If you are in a place where you have to drive it into the ground, have you considered maybe a 2 piece frame that just sirs on the ground with the base heavy enough that it sits still?
 
I once tried slipping rebar inside steel gas line pipe to create a “sturdier” rack. Errant rifle shots still ripped right through both items.

I made my target stands out of 60” tall 1/2” threaded gas line pipe, elbows and tees. It is 24” wide (to limit errant shots hitting the pipe) with four 18” pipes as feet. Portable, easy to transport, and holds up my 35 pound 1/2” AR-550 torso targets without a hitch.

Stay safe.
 
I once tried slipping rebar inside steel gas line pipe to create a “sturdier” rack. Errant rifle shots still ripped right through both items.

I made my target stands out of 60” tall 1/2” threaded gas line pipe, elbows and tees. It is 24” wide (to limit errant shots hitting the pipe) with four 18” pipes as feet. Portable, easy to transport, and holds up my 35 pound 1/2” AR-550 torso targets without a hitch.

Stay safe.
Thanks for the info. I will use the stainless frame till it gets shot up then switch to something similar to what you're using. I'm just using paper so it doesn't need to be as heavy as what you're using. I like the idea of using a wider frame to reduce the number of hits. I will be carrying this about 100 to 150 yards into the local national forest so want it to be light weight.
 
Since you will use it for paper and not for holding up heavy steel plates, you could make it out of schedule 40 pvc. (Lots lighter and MUCH cheaper!)

I’d glue the elbows to the vertical posts and the crossbar, and also glue the vertical post that rises up out of the T at the base. I would just use friction to hold the lateral feet in place that will stick out of the T for stability. (Making the stabilizing feet removable allows for it to be transported/stored flat.)

Just an idea. :D

Stay safe.
 
Since you will use it for paper and not for holding up heavy steel plates, you could make it out of schedule 40 pvc. (Lots lighter and MUCH cheaper!)

I’d glue the elbows to the vertical posts and the crossbar, and also glue the vertical post that rises up out of the T at the base. I would just use friction to hold the lateral feet in place that will stick out of the T for stability. (Making the stabilizing feet removable allows for it to be transported/stored flat.)

Just an idea. :D

Stay safe.
Easier to repair also
 
I bough this frame on Amazon. I had some point to use and thought I'd give it a try. I use 1x2 for paper targets and 2x4 if I want to hang a gong. If someone shoots the wood too much, it is easily replaced. the 2x4 just get shredded lead embedded in it. I cut card board from Amazon big boxes to hold paper target or the color change stick on targets. 4 big binder clips and clip the card board to the 1x2. It is not terrible expensive and it only gets splattered if you shoot steel and then only need paint. I have been completely pleased with this one.
https://amzn.to/3O29zNZ

61P69J8+QaL._AC_SX679_.jpg
 
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A friend of mine welded up a steel frame for me this year. It's got 2 levels; 50yd and 100yd due to the slope of my bench to backstop. The TGT backboard slides into either level depending on the distance. When I'm done I just slide the backboard out and put it in the TGT shed:

5q2TnOWl.jpg


mhJ3Dbdl.jpg


I'm sort of on pins and needles waiting for the 1st round to go through it. It's going to happen sooner or later as I get quite a few guys out to zero, with supposedly bore-sighted rifles..

My old stand was a wooden affair that I made out of scrap wood, easily repairable:

MbCWeE7l.jpg


I modified it to accept the same TGT backboard. Honestly, while the steel stand is cool, there's a lot to be said for easily repairable when there's projectiles involved.
 
I bough this frame on Amazon. I had some point to use and thought I'd give it a try. I use 1x2 for paper targets and 2x4 if I want to hang a gong. If someone shoots the wood too much, it is easily replaced. the 2x4 just get shredded lead embedded in it. I cut card board from Amazon big boxes to hold paper target or the color change stick on targets. 4 big binder clips and clip the card board to the 1x2. It is not terrible expensive and it only gets splattered if you shoot steel and then only need paint. I have been completely pleased with this one.
https://amzn.to/3O29zNZ

61P69J8+QaL._AC_SX679_.jpg
This could work but it's a little heavier than I'd like, since I will be carrying this, a pistol or rifle, and range bag about 100 yards into national forest.
 
This could work but it's a little heavier than I'd like, since I will be carrying this, a pistol or rifle, and range bag about 100 yards into national forest.


I've got 6 or 7 similar that I had welded from scrap steal to accept 1x2 Firing strips in order to use IDPA silhouettes, but they'll hold any backer:

urjx92W.jpg


mER4TGLl.jpg


They're not really heavy, but somewhat awkward when carrying several. Your best bet for really lightweight will be the wire "realtor" or poilitical sign frames that you can get at HD:


For hard ground I have a couple of these, which i also use for goose decoys:

 
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