I'm with RC on this one. A drill and a bore brush makes quick work of filthy revolver chambers. Another helpful trick I found is to soak the chambers with CLP or Dexron at the range while the gun is still "warm" from shooting. By the time I get it home on the bench the fouling is much easier to remove. You can also heat it up with a hair dryer and soak the chambers - just give the solvent some time to work before you attack it. Dexron is a very good carbon cutter. Using a brush that is properly sized for the chamber is a big help. A bore brush will be too small for the chambers.
Shortcut for cleaning cylinders?
- Thread starter prestpat
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chicharrones
needs more ammo
I've always wondered how hard that is to push through. Six times the force required compared to just one brush, right?
chicharrones
needs more ammo
Maybe.
I clean my guns as best I can, but I sure hate how long it takes. Maybe if I just did quick clean jobs instead of deep cleaning jobs.
I have seen guys use those and they really don't hold up very well - plus they do not allow you to rotate the brush. They are useful to keep in your range bag for a quick "punch" in between stages if you run a moon clipped gun with tight chambers (like the early S&W 625-2s) If you didn't punch the chambers about every 2nd or 3rd stage your clipped reloads would not "drop in".
BobWright
Member
mbopp said:
Did a similar thing, except cut notches in the case mouth for "teeth." Then drilled out the primer pocket and tapped it for 1/-20 threads. Took a piece of steel rod and threaded about 1" of one end. Run a 1/4-20 nut on the rod, thread the case onto the rod, and run the nut down to lock it. Use this in a hand drill or drill press. As the "teeth" wear down, bell the case mouth again.
Bob Wright
Did a similar thing, except cut notches in the case mouth for "teeth." Then drilled out the primer pocket and tapped it for 1/-20 threads. Took a piece of steel rod and threaded about 1" of one end. Run a 1/4-20 nut on the rod, thread the case onto the rod, and run the nut down to lock it. Use this in a hand drill or drill press. As the "teeth" wear down, bell the case mouth again.
Bob Wright
fireman 9731
Member
It can't be over cleaned. It can be improperly cleaned though, resulting in damage or excessive wear from using the wrong tool for the job. For example, a steel cleaning rod wearing on the muzzle or hasty dis/re-assembly resulting in damaged parts.
I think that is what people mean when they say that. Its not that the gun is too clean, its that too much cleaning the wrong way results in damage, which is very true.
Appreciate all the advice so far. I should probably clarify a few things:
In general, I don't mind cleaning my guns. I actually enjoy cleaning a new gun for the first time because it's an excuse to take it apart and study its inner workings. After that I can't say there's much enjoyment, but I still clean religiously because I feel it's the best way to ensure reliability and maximize longevity, both of which are important to me. It's fair to say that most of my guns spend more time being cleaned than shot, and most of my barrels have had more brushes through them than bullets. And that's not a complaint -as far as I'm concerned it comes with the territory.
All that being said, the time it takes to clean a revolver cylinder to my satisfaction is a bit much even for me. Perhaps I should mention that all three of my revolvers are rimfire, which is dirty, and two of them are convertibles, which means double the cleaning if I use both cylinders.
The raised carbon ring that forms at the case/bullet junction is the biggest problem. I have to believe that will cause loading and extraction problems before long, and I've always heard that carbon fouling is much easier to remove when it's fresh, so I'm not inclined to let it accumulate. I find it takes a long time to brush that ring away. Granted, I'm using regular bore brushes, but at least for 22LR they should be the same diameter, right? Bore snakes save some time on single actions, but in my experience they snag and get caught on double action extractors.
The chamber brush in a drill method sounds appealing. Failing that, the flared case scraper would probably work well too. Incidentally, that Brownells multi brush tool is exactly what I had envisioned. Too bad they don't list any for rimfires.
In general, I don't mind cleaning my guns. I actually enjoy cleaning a new gun for the first time because it's an excuse to take it apart and study its inner workings. After that I can't say there's much enjoyment, but I still clean religiously because I feel it's the best way to ensure reliability and maximize longevity, both of which are important to me. It's fair to say that most of my guns spend more time being cleaned than shot, and most of my barrels have had more brushes through them than bullets. And that's not a complaint -as far as I'm concerned it comes with the territory.
All that being said, the time it takes to clean a revolver cylinder to my satisfaction is a bit much even for me. Perhaps I should mention that all three of my revolvers are rimfire, which is dirty, and two of them are convertibles, which means double the cleaning if I use both cylinders.
The raised carbon ring that forms at the case/bullet junction is the biggest problem. I have to believe that will cause loading and extraction problems before long, and I've always heard that carbon fouling is much easier to remove when it's fresh, so I'm not inclined to let it accumulate. I find it takes a long time to brush that ring away. Granted, I'm using regular bore brushes, but at least for 22LR they should be the same diameter, right? Bore snakes save some time on single actions, but in my experience they snag and get caught on double action extractors.
The chamber brush in a drill method sounds appealing. Failing that, the flared case scraper would probably work well too. Incidentally, that Brownells multi brush tool is exactly what I had envisioned. Too bad they don't list any for rimfires.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy Again
Some smokeless shooters never cease to amaze me with how fastidious they want to be with their shooting irons. Try shooting Black Powder sometime and you will find out what it really means to clean a revolver.
Merwin Hulbert Pocket Army, 44-40, full case of FFg.
Some smokeless shooters never cease to amaze me with how fastidious they want to be with their shooting irons. Try shooting Black Powder sometime and you will find out what it really means to clean a revolver.
Merwin Hulbert Pocket Army, 44-40, full case of FFg.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Just three revolvers? What did I say earlier? Once you have enough revolvers you will stop obsessing about how clean they are.
You shouldn't have to go to heroic lengths (e.g. chucking up a brush in a drill) to clean the chambers, especially if you give them a quick cleaning each time you shoot.
I don't clean my revolvers to like-new everytime I shoot them (or anytime, for that matter), but they stay functionally clean & lubed. That means, in part, a quick cleaning of the chambers after I've shot. A pass with a solvent-soaked patch, a few passes with solvent and a brush, then a few dry patches. Clean under the ejector star. Done.
Make sure you're not actually seeing the chamber throat. If you don't know you're looking at the throat, it'll look like a big carbon ring.
I don't clean my revolvers to like-new everytime I shoot them (or anytime, for that matter), but they stay functionally clean & lubed. That means, in part, a quick cleaning of the chambers after I've shot. A pass with a solvent-soaked patch, a few passes with solvent and a brush, then a few dry patches. Clean under the ejector star. Done.
prestpat said:
Make sure you're not actually seeing the chamber throat. If you don't know you're looking at the throat, it'll look like a big carbon ring.
walnut1704
Member
It does take a bit longer to clean a revolver. For me this is offset by not having to pick up brass.
I remove the cylinder. I soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer for a while. I lock it in a vise, with padded jaws of course. I use an oversize brush. For .38/.357 I use a long .375 rifle brush. Goes pretty quick between being larger diameter, and more than twice the length of a pistol bore brush.
I don't usually bother with the carbon rings on the face, but a couple of times a year i will clean it off with with a Lead-Away cloth.
I also quit shooting bare lead bullets in revolvers. The coated cast lead bullets run much cleaner and cost only a couple of bucks more. They leave very little lead splash on the cylinder face.
I remove the cylinder. I soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer for a while. I lock it in a vise, with padded jaws of course. I use an oversize brush. For .38/.357 I use a long .375 rifle brush. Goes pretty quick between being larger diameter, and more than twice the length of a pistol bore brush.
I don't usually bother with the carbon rings on the face, but a couple of times a year i will clean it off with with a Lead-Away cloth.
I also quit shooting bare lead bullets in revolvers. The coated cast lead bullets run much cleaner and cost only a couple of bucks more. They leave very little lead splash on the cylinder face.
Last edited:
Zaydok Allen
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Yep. Very helpful on revolvers.
No. A chamber brush is larger in diameter and also longer than a bore brush which is why it is much more effective. Chambers are too large for a bore brush to work well. Ideally, you should have both a chamber brush and a chamber rod which doesn't turn unless you turn it. You'll find the job is much easier & goes much faster.
chicharrones
needs more ammo
Cleaning a gun like that is the biggest reason my Italian 1860 sits in silicone coated sock. I'd rather dry fire it than clean it.
MifflinKid
Member
Yes. But I use a CLP or Ballistol with an electric screw driver. The brush is held by a small chuck that has an hexagonal shaft. I then run dry patches through each chamber.
My Hoppes is in the barrel while the cylinder is being cleaned.
susieqz
Member
a 22 bore brush is worthless for a 22 revolver chamber..
i usea 25 ca bore brush for chambers n it works fine
i usea 25 ca bore brush for chambers n it works fine
I have a short (4" or so) piece of cleaning rod. I take the cylinder out of the gun, put the brush in the rod, chuck the rod in the drill press, turn on the press, and run each chamber up on it a couple of times.
The short length of rod keeps the chuck from accidentally hitting the cylinder ratchet.
Jim
The short length of rod keeps the chuck from accidentally hitting the cylinder ratchet.
Jim
Bama Drifter
Member
As Mr. Driftwood J said,
Ya'll seem a bit anal about your revolver cleanliness. Unless we are talking investment grade (which most of my handguns are) I clean thoroughly every other range trip... especially my Ruger SBH. Finally accepted that carbon rings are natural, and as long as the rounds chamber, gun goes bang, and there is no red active rust I'm doing fine.
Shooting copious amount of cast bullets, I know there will eventually be a day of reckoning where I'll break down and buy the Lewis Lead Remover, but until then...
YMMV
Ya'll seem a bit anal about your revolver cleanliness. Unless we are talking investment grade (which most of my handguns are) I clean thoroughly every other range trip... especially my Ruger SBH. Finally accepted that carbon rings are natural, and as long as the rounds chamber, gun goes bang, and there is no red active rust I'm doing fine.
Shooting copious amount of cast bullets, I know there will eventually be a day of reckoning where I'll break down and buy the Lewis Lead Remover, but until then...
YMMV
BobWright
Member
Here's my tip for cleaning .22 RF chambers:
Buy those bristled pipe cleaner from the tobacco shop. Think they come in packages of 100.
Take a cleaner and fold it in half, then fold out the two legs, about 1/2" long or so, making a "T" with the stem longer than the length of the cylinder. Soak the "stem" in Hoppe's No. 9 solvent and insert it into the chamber. Using the top of the "T" twist the cleaner around to scrub the chamber. Clean each chamber in this manner, then dry and oil slightly.
Bob Wright
Buy those bristled pipe cleaner from the tobacco shop. Think they come in packages of 100.
Take a cleaner and fold it in half, then fold out the two legs, about 1/2" long or so, making a "T" with the stem longer than the length of the cylinder. Soak the "stem" in Hoppe's No. 9 solvent and insert it into the chamber. Using the top of the "T" twist the cleaner around to scrub the chamber. Clean each chamber in this manner, then dry and oil slightly.
Bob Wright
hollywood63
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Brush
I wrap a piece of chore boy around a old bore brush dipped in solvent of choice cuts time ten fold
I wrap a piece of chore boy around a old bore brush dipped in solvent of choice cuts time ten fold
If you're using a good solvent - it should do most of the work for you if you give it enough time. For lead buildup the Lewis lead remover or a chunk of copper scrub pad are the ticket. I used to be a NRA instructor and got the job of cleaning all of range guns after every class - sometime 20 at a time. Next class they were all spotless. It was never that big of a deal to me - it's just another job that has to be done.
susieqz
Member
what is enow time?
am i supposed to soak the cylinder before cleaning?
if so, for how long?
am i supposed to soak the cylinder before cleaning?
if so, for how long?
Tallball
Member
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1) Load around six handguns into range bag and maybe 100 rounds of ammo apiece into ammo can.
2) Go to shooting range. Shoot 50-100 rounds through each handgun.
3) Go home. Spend 5-10 minutes apiece cleaning the handguns. Maybe have a couple of beers while you're at it.
4) Put guns and excess ammo away.
I have been shooting regularly for 35 years and have NEVER had one of my firearms malfunction because it was dirty. The only reason one would take me more than ten minutes to clean is if it is a semi-auto that is tricky to take apart. They have to be clean enough to function properly; they don't have to be clean enough to eat off of.
2) Go to shooting range. Shoot 50-100 rounds through each handgun.
3) Go home. Spend 5-10 minutes apiece cleaning the handguns. Maybe have a couple of beers while you're at it.
4) Put guns and excess ammo away.
I have been shooting regularly for 35 years and have NEVER had one of my firearms malfunction because it was dirty. The only reason one would take me more than ten minutes to clean is if it is a semi-auto that is tricky to take apart. They have to be clean enough to function properly; they don't have to be clean enough to eat off of.
45Frank
Member
I agree I enjoy cleaning them as much as shooting them.
stu1ritter
Member
I shot on two Army divisional pistol teams (way pre G/Sgt Zinns) and we never cleaned the guns until they malfunctioned causing an alibi string. The team armorers always taught us that you increased wear in the cleaning process so, taking their advice I would suggest that you compulsivly shoot them rather than clean them. There really are places where neatness/cleanliness is detrimental.
Stu
Stu
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