Around ten minutes while you clean the rest of the gun.
Shortcut for cleaning cylinders?
- Thread starter prestpat
- Start date
- Status
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Well, if you are cleaning a single action revolver like a Colt, it is MUCH easier to remove the cylinder to clean it. Much, much easier. Just depress the latch to pull the cylinder pin and the cylinder comes out in your hand. much easier to run a cleaning rod through it. In fact, you can't run the cleaning rod all the way through the chambers unless you remove the cylinder. Plus, you can't remove the cylinder bushing to clean it unless you remove the cylinder.
I know, I know, you were talking about a modern double action revolver. I find it easier to clean them too if I remove the cylinder, particularly with a Smith and Wesson. Just one screw to remove the entire cylinder/crane assembly. I don't go any farther than that, but holding the cylinder in my hand it is easier and quicker to run a bore brush all the way through the chambers than if the cylinder is still in the gun.
At least I think so. But of course, I don't clean modern revolvers very often.
Zaydok Allen
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 13,274
While I really don't care how often or to what degree other people clean their guns, I agree with MrBorland. I'm meticulous but I have never removed the cylinder to clean in.
My process includes this:
Soak a patch in Hoppes #9 and pass it through each chamber and the barrel a few times.
Next throw a brush on the rod and scrub out each chamber and the barrel a bit.
Another Hoppes soaked patch pass through on the chambers and barrel.
Leave that alone now and let it soak.
Now clean any fouling with a paper towel and qtips from the exterior.
A bit of Hoppes, a brass brush, and about 50 seconds of scrubbing and the carbon rings on the front of the cylinder are about 95% gone.
Now use a dry patch on all the chambers and barrel.
Bore snake through each.
Quick oil job.
Done.
The entire process takes me about 45 minutes. And it's 45 minutes I enjoy.
Sunday I cleaned my 1911, 686 Competitor, and oiled my HK45 and VP9. It was fun.
Normally when I handle my cell phone, it smells like Hoppes.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Why in the world would you need to clean a shotgun barrel that way? Do you have huge amounts of fouling left in the bore that is difficult to remove with just a bore brush and mop?
I wouldn't say I "need" to do it that way, but I was so impressed at how much faster I got my revolver chambers clean, I thought, why not do the same thing with any smooth bore?
glocking26
Member
I've always wondered how hard that is to push through. Six times the force required compared to just one brush, right?
I use one on my RUGER LCR and your right it is harder to push thru but it does make short work of cleaning it. I would not recommend using it on a Smith Wesson Airweight J Frame.
I use one on my RUGER LCR and your right it is harder to push thru but it does make short work of cleaning it. I would not recommend using it on a Smith Wesson Airweight J Frame.
I spray my bore cleaner in the cylinder chambers and barel. I shoot Ballistol through the action and let it drain out. I then put my cleaning rod with bore brush in my drill. I scrub out the barrel and chambers. I then spray break clean through the barrel and cylinder. I then send cloth patches made from old T-Shirts, socked with break clean through the barrel and chambers followed by dry patches. When it's dry and clean a light cote of Ballistol. BE CARFULE WITH BREAK CLEAN. IT IS VERY STRONG. KEEP IT AWAY FROM WOOD, PLASTIC AND YOUR SIGHTS.
RA40
Member
I took the 66 out yesterday and while cleaning I had this thread in mind. Removing the cylinder is also part of my process and allows wiping up the cleaning fluid that would otherwise migrate into the crane recesses if left in. Takes about 25 minutes to do the cleaning routine.
On some of the reloads there would be a heavy deposit to scrub out. Usually the cylinder it wipes quite clean with a few strokes of a brush passed through it. Cleaning the semi auto and the magazines is about the same amount of time.
On some of the reloads there would be a heavy deposit to scrub out. Usually the cylinder it wipes quite clean with a few strokes of a brush passed through it. Cleaning the semi auto and the magazines is about the same amount of time.
Carbon rings on the front of the cylinder? Yes, that procedure works....only on a blued revolver, because you can't clearly see the carbon rings & it looks like they're gone.
On a stainless revolver, you'll see that a brush & solvent alone won't remove them. But a treated "Kleenbore" cloth will. (The fact that it will remove blueing is a hint that it will remove those carbon rings.
Zaydok Allen
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 13,274
Wrong. If you use a bit of elbow grease and a couple of doses of Hoppes, you can completely remove carbon rings on stainless guns with a brass brush. I used to scrub mine for 5 minutes or more and completely remove any carbon rings, or use a brush on a Dremel. I've just realized that it was totally unnecessary and a waste of my time. So now I just give them a quick scrub and don't worry about it.
If you don't think it can be done, you haven't tried hard enough. I shoot 4 stainless revolvers and have never needed Kleenbore to get carbon rings completely off. Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Copper Solvent are the only cleaning products I've ever used on my guns.
Five minutes of scrubbing the cylinder? Well, ya got more patience than I have. I'd be concerned about wearing off the bluing with that much.
Zaydok Allen
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 13,274
Yes blued guns are a different matter. I think carbon rings look like hell on stainless guns, and I find them easy to deal with. Blued guns show carbon rings to a much lesser degree. So who cares.
But I haven't given my revolvers that kind of diligence for years. It isn't necessary.
But I haven't given my revolvers that kind of diligence for years. It isn't necessary.
Indeed. I still hand wax my pickup. My basement floor in the house I bought last summer is dirt, over a giant piece of granite. I'm hand excavating it with buckets and a shovel so I can put gravel down and make it more useable. My mother once told me I was born 40 years old.
Last edited:
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,477
Cleaning? I bought a new 686 a year ago. I have put 3k+ rounds thru it and haven't cleaned it yet. I wipe the soot off with an oily rag to keep it from getting on my clothes....I have several shooter revolvers that I don't recall cleaning in at least two years.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes, but, some of us are more OCD!!
I couldn't go to bed at night after shooting and not cleaning the gun down to bare metal again.
I'd dream of little Rust Demons chewing holes in the shiny chambers of my guns, and leaving corrosion causing poop under the black carbon fouling in each chamber.
(Yes, Chamber & bore Rust Demons are real!
Just like Underwear Gnomes are real!!)
rc
I couldn't go to bed at night after shooting and not cleaning the gun down to bare metal again.
I'd dream of little Rust Demons chewing holes in the shiny chambers of my guns, and leaving corrosion causing poop under the black carbon fouling in each chamber.
(Yes, Chamber & bore Rust Demons are real!
Just like Underwear Gnomes are real!!)
rc
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,477
I shoot 3-5 days a week. I wouldn't have time to sleep if I had to clean a gun every time I shot it...
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Well, that's one problem I don't have anymore!!
rc
rc
Homerboy
Member
I've never gotten all the carbon rings off with just a brush. Then again, i lve never tried it for 5 minutes. A lead away cloth has them gone in seconds. Why scrub with a steel brush for 5 minutes when it can be gone in seconds?
As for never cleaning, that's absurd. A firearm (particularly a fine classic revolver) costs a good chunk of change. Why abuse it by not cleaning it? Just because it will probably still work? A BIG part of gun ownership for me is pride. I love taking them out and just holding them and showing them off. After 100 rounds of my reloads, the gun looks like hell. I would never put it back in the safe without cleaning it.
As for Hoppes, that has been my product for years, but I am slowly shifting away from it. Hoppes will harm the bluing on more modern blued guns, and it sure took the clear coat off my 642. Not to mention the "this causes cancer" warning on the label. I've mostly switched to MPro 7 products. But I DO give a pass through the chambers and barrel with Hoppes after I use the MPro. Guns just don't feel clean if they don't smell like Hoppes. I wear gloves though.
As for how long to clean a revolver, I've got it down to about 12-15 minutes. And I mean SPOTLESS. Spray down the gun with MPro 7. Pass MPro soaked patches through barrel and chambers and let sit while I use an old toothbrush on the outside of gun. Steel brush on forcing cone. Chuck a cleaning rod with soaked patches onto drill an 10 seconds on each chamber with nylon brush. Clean patch or two to clean up after the drill and they come out black. Last patch is perfectly clean white. Switch to bore brush dipped in more MPro and 25-30 passes through barrel. Couple of clean patches to mop up. Drop or two of oil behind hammer and trigger. Pull trigger several times to spread it around. Lastly, clean patch dipped in Hoppes. Only one needed for all chambers and barrel since they're already so clean. No more carbon or lead comes out. Follow with clean patch.
Cylinder face? Clean in 30 seconds with a lead away cloth. Same one I've been using for about 15 years.
When it's all done (15 minutes, MAX), I generally use a bit of Renasaince Wax.
Every 1000 rounds or so, I'll use a Lewis Lead Remover, but very little comes out. Before my current method, I used to pull chunks of lead out of there.
As for never cleaning, that's absurd. A firearm (particularly a fine classic revolver) costs a good chunk of change. Why abuse it by not cleaning it? Just because it will probably still work? A BIG part of gun ownership for me is pride. I love taking them out and just holding them and showing them off. After 100 rounds of my reloads, the gun looks like hell. I would never put it back in the safe without cleaning it.
As for Hoppes, that has been my product for years, but I am slowly shifting away from it. Hoppes will harm the bluing on more modern blued guns, and it sure took the clear coat off my 642. Not to mention the "this causes cancer" warning on the label. I've mostly switched to MPro 7 products. But I DO give a pass through the chambers and barrel with Hoppes after I use the MPro. Guns just don't feel clean if they don't smell like Hoppes. I wear gloves though.
As for how long to clean a revolver, I've got it down to about 12-15 minutes. And I mean SPOTLESS. Spray down the gun with MPro 7. Pass MPro soaked patches through barrel and chambers and let sit while I use an old toothbrush on the outside of gun. Steel brush on forcing cone. Chuck a cleaning rod with soaked patches onto drill an 10 seconds on each chamber with nylon brush. Clean patch or two to clean up after the drill and they come out black. Last patch is perfectly clean white. Switch to bore brush dipped in more MPro and 25-30 passes through barrel. Couple of clean patches to mop up. Drop or two of oil behind hammer and trigger. Pull trigger several times to spread it around. Lastly, clean patch dipped in Hoppes. Only one needed for all chambers and barrel since they're already so clean. No more carbon or lead comes out. Follow with clean patch.
Cylinder face? Clean in 30 seconds with a lead away cloth. Same one I've been using for about 15 years.
When it's all done (15 minutes, MAX), I generally use a bit of Renasaince Wax.
Every 1000 rounds or so, I'll use a Lewis Lead Remover, but very little comes out. Before my current method, I used to pull chunks of lead out of there.
Last edited:
Zaydok Allen
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 13,274
It wasn't an endorsement to do it that way. I was pointing out that the assertion that you can't completely remove carbon rings with only a BRASS brush and Hoppes from a stainless revolver was incorrect. It can be done. I've done it. But to be fair, I'm maybe a little OCD. My dentist told me I wasn't allowed to use a regular tooth brush any more because my gums were receding from brushing too hard and vigorously. Gotta use an electric toothbrush now.
Good lord, I remember many years ago I would spend an hour and a half cleaning my revolvers each and every time I cleaned them. No more.
Note, I assume you meant to say brass brush not steel. A steel brush should never be used on a gun as it would scratch the hell out of the finish and metal.
Homerboy
Member
I did mean brass brush.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Bingo!
IMHO, making every firearm squeaky clean every time it's shot is more abusive than not cleaning it (blackpowder and corrosive primers excepted). Sorry but this always comes from folks who don't know because they could never bring themselves to try it.
Here's my take, I used to clean my guns every range session. Nowadays, I clean my revolvers when they need it. I 'usually' wipe them down after every outing but only clean them when they actually need it. I swab the chambers every few hundred to couple thousand rounds. I only clean the bore if it's necessary and can't remember the last time I did that. Would you change the oil in your car every time you drive to the corner store? Disassemble the engine and clean every nook & cranny? Clean and vacuum the interior? Wash and wax the exterior? No, you do all those things in intervals. Guns are no different. Let's be real, you're doing it because you want to. Sure, you can try and justify it by saying it's "abusive" not to or that it's part of pride of ownership or that those who don't are lazy. The truth is you're doing it because you want to, not because the gun needs it.
I'm with CraigC and others on this.
Competition, for example, is tough on revolvers. High round count, rapid DA shooting, and fast reloads. They take a beating and they get dirty. Yet, they have to run & reload with 100% no-excuses reliability. That means they have to be functionally clean, particularly the chambers. Competitive wheelgunners live and die by the reload, so clean chambers are a must, lest the rounds hangup during a reload.
The rest is cosmetic. I quickly clean out the chambers after a practice session or match, and the rest of the gun gets simply wiped down. I might run a patch down the barrel (from the breech end). I don't remove the cylinder for cleaning, chuck up a brush in a drill, use a lead-away cloth or try getting the cylinder face like-new. Every so often, a drop of lube here or there. Once a year (or every 10-15k rounds), the gun gets opened, disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed.
Competition, for example, is tough on revolvers. High round count, rapid DA shooting, and fast reloads. They take a beating and they get dirty. Yet, they have to run & reload with 100% no-excuses reliability. That means they have to be functionally clean, particularly the chambers. Competitive wheelgunners live and die by the reload, so clean chambers are a must, lest the rounds hangup during a reload.
The rest is cosmetic. I quickly clean out the chambers after a practice session or match, and the rest of the gun gets simply wiped down. I might run a patch down the barrel (from the breech end). I don't remove the cylinder for cleaning, chuck up a brush in a drill, use a lead-away cloth or try getting the cylinder face like-new. Every so often, a drop of lube here or there. Once a year (or every 10-15k rounds), the gun gets opened, disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed.
- Status