Should I break the barrel In or not?

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possum

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Here is the issue i have a DPMS lr-308 on the way like i said before, with the 24" ss barrel and so on. now should i break the barrel in? i was told that DPMS recommends that you break in the barrel with 25rds cleaning after each shot, much like lapping the barrel. i know how to do it but what benifit will i get out of doing this. is it worth the time or not? will help the accuracy, what is the purpose? thanks!
 
9 out of 10 gurus disagree

there's an interesting article from lilja about it floating around.


edit
good overview
gale mcmillan thinks it's BS

krieger' explains why it's good and how to do it properly
from krieger link:
Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file. When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this gas and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it; copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the "fire-one-shot-and-clean" procedure.
 
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Barrel break-in has two purposes:

1. It sells a lot of ammo and components.

2. It gives barrel makers an excuse when your megabuck$ barrel won't shoot, "You didn't break it in right.":D
 
1. It sells a lot of ammo and components.

yeah that is what i was thinking 25rds of match ammo or at least good quality ammo will cost $20 plus just to "break it in"

now here is another question is there any ammo i should stay away from? how about that century arms 147gr fmj 1980's production for just messing around at the range is there anything wrong with it/ will it screw anything up? I will have match grade stuff for when it is needed but i don't want to take out a newbie with $25 a box ammo, you know. thanks
 
now here is another question is there any ammo i should stay away from? how about that century arms 147gr fmj 1980's production for just messing around at the range is there anything wrong with it/ will it screw anything up? I will have match grade stuff for when it is needed but i don't want to take out a newbie with $25 a box ammo, you know. thanks

By and large, there are three ways ammunition can harm your gun -- loaded to too hot, fouling too much, or depositing salts in the barrel and action.

Some military ammunition (especially in 8 X 57mm) is loaded very hot. Most surplus in .308 (7.62 X 51mm NATO) is actually on the mild side. I can't think of any I'd advise you not to use on that account.

Some ammuntion is very dirty (Wolf brand, for example) but won't harm your rifle -- you just have to clean it after each shooting session. Barnes X-bullets (which are solid copper) had a reputation for copper-fouling some barrels, and that's a real chore to remove. Later versions solved the problem.

Much military surplus ammo has corrosive primers. The seller should warn you of this, but treat all surplus as corrosive. Wash the barrel and all parts that come into contact with the gas with hot, soapy water, then dry and oil. Check the gun for rust each day for a few days after shooting -- simply run a patch though the bore and look for any signs of rust. If you find any, clean thoroughly again.

So, no, there is no ammo likely to damage your gun, provided you clean it properly. On the other hand, don't expect gilt-edge accuracy or even reliability from cheap ammo.
 
No, you should not.:eek:

You should send the rifle to me, and then keep sending me ammo untill I tell you to stop.:evil:

I will return the rifle when the barrel is "broken in";)

I personally worry about metal on metal moving parts in the action breaking in properly. For me this means lube, and cleaning, and sometimes even stoning.
In a autoloader the barrel is the last of my worrys when breaking the rifle in.
 
well thanks guys i appreciate the intel, i guess there will be no break in for me, just straigt shooting the minute i get it to the range!

No, you should not.

You should send the rifle to me, and then keep sending me ammo untill I tell you to stop.

I will return the rifle when the barrel is "broken in"

I won't do that but i will offer you to come shoot with me anytime you want.:)
 
Yes, barrel break-in is very important.

Here is my procedure that always ensures a proper break-in.

1. Clean weapon of any gunk leftover from manufacture
2. buy lots of ammo
3. shoot lots of ammo

repeat 2 & 3 whenever money allows.
 
Just shoot it and don't worry about it.

Of course my opinion is worth just what you paid for it, as are the others in this thread. :neener:
 
Here is my procedure that always ensures a proper break-in.

1. Clean weapon of any gunk leftover from manufacture
2. buy lots of ammo
3. shoot lots of ammo[/QUOTE

with the bonus i am planned on spending almost as much on ammo than on the rifle itself. i plan on doing lots and lots of step 2 and 3!:)
 
I don't see why you'd need match ammo to break it in, just use regular milsurp like SA or Port. I would steer clear of the .308 that Century is offering, If I'm wrong hopefully someone will chime in but I believe that is Indian .308 and has gained a horrible reputation with many .308 shooters. Pay a couple more cents a round and get some good surplus. BTW I can see the logic in cleaning the barrel especially around the chamber when it is new. Just like with a "new" internal combustion engine there will be some wear until the parts "seat" together properly. I wouldn't go scrubbing with a brass bore brush though, unless the barrel is extremely fouled metal bore brushes seem to me to do more harm than good. YMMV
 
So far my limited experience with breaking in barrels/not breaking in barrels seems to suggest that the only difference it makes is in cleaning the gun afterwards. The barrel that had a break-in done cleans up faster (4-6 patches).
 
I'll believe break in a barrel helps when I see some actual testing - say 20 barrels of same manufacture and caliber - do the break in procedure for 10 and compare the accuracy of the 10 broken in and the 10 that aren't
 
m38,

i agree that would be a good test, maybe Guns and ammo magazine should do that for us! they got plenty of money and they would probally get the test guns free of charge. sounds like a plan to me. maybe i should send David Fortier an e-mail!:)
 
I broke in the barrel of my Browning A-bolt, and now it is the easiest gun I have ever had to clean. Usually it is clean after around 5 patches. I wll always break my barrels in from now on. Don't have a clue if it helps with accuracy though.
 
If the barrel has been hook rifled or cut rifled there could be small chunks or strips of steel still in, but I have never figured out whether you were better off removing them with elbow grease or by shooting...:)
 
I think I would break it in

I think it's beneficial from the point of view of cleaning. By cleaning each round for the first 25 rounds or so, you move out some of the remaining crud from the original manufacture.

I have not done this with a rifle yet, but with my pistols I did something along these lines. With my 45, I just shot it when I got it and really didn't pay any attention to breakin other than what the gun store suggested. Put a minimum of 100 rounds through it just to be sure it's going to operate fine before you put it on nightstand duty.

This I did, and it was a real bear to clean. Then I did some internet digging and found that there were many ways to get this breakin done. Abrasion coated bullets, bore pastes, rubbing compound and so on. I cleaned the barrel as best I could with copper remover and bore solvent until the patches came out clean. I then cleaned the barrel with soap and water and ran some medium grit automotive rubbing compound on outers rifle cleaning patches. It took about 8-10 patches, roughly two or three passes each before they started coming out clean. The bore was notably more shiny after this process. Now I'm sure that some of the crud on the patches was definitely leftover carbon fouling. I don't have a borescope however, just a bright light and decent eyesight.

However, after this procedure, the barrel is literally a breeze to clean compared to before this process. So in light of this, I feel it is effort well spent. I put my 10mm Witness through this procedure before ever firing a shot and find it quite easy to clean also. I will be doing this to every future firearm I buy, new or otherwise. The cleaning effort went down so far I can't see not doing it. It simply saves me time, and from my 45 experience, it saved a LOT of time.

jeepmor
 
Your car's or truck's engine is manufactured in mass quantities, and everyone acknowledges that they need to be broken in. Reason: when the engine is manufactured there are little bits of metal that are left over. This is why you are told to change the oil at (for instance) 1,000 miles and at 3,000, and then go to a regular schedule. The engine, just by operating, will get rid of the metal and the oil filter will collect it. Since there's so much initially, you have the possibility of clogging the filter much earlier, hence the recommendation to change the oil and filter earlier.

With a mass-manufactured gun (as opposed to one with a custom barrel), there's no automatic filtering system - you have to clean it. I would recommend doing it, but certainly not with match ammunition. I'd also recommend using David Tubb's Final Finish product (available at Midway and Brownell's, and cheaper than retail if you're a C&R dealer). I used it on my AR after having put over 1,000 rounds through it (didn't know about the Tubb kit until then), and it has become easier to clean and even a bit more accurate (though not massively so). I will shortly be doing the same to my Remington 700, my M1A and a Finn M39.

BTW, I'd highly recommend that you read the following article: http://www.chuckhawks.com/affordable_accuracy.htm It discusses the Tubb kit and other cheap means of making rifles more accurate.
 
Break in complete

I did the rubbing compound scrub on the barrel after a quick clean with Hoppes number nine to remove the oils and what not that came with it as delivered.

I shot and cleaned it after every round for twenty rounds, then did it about every five. Now I'm cleaning it after every session, not really counting rounds closely, but roughly after 40 rounds of shooting.

It cleans up quick and can be done in about 15 minutes including bore copper reomover sit time. Glad I did it, not going to fret about it now and I'll just clean it after each outing as usual.

Thanks for the link, gonna start reading it now.

jeepmor
 
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