Should I save.......

[TanklessPro]

I found a Model 19 at a LGS and I'm thinking about picking it up. I do have some questions. I think it is a 19-2, can't remember for sure on the dash. I think it is nickel? The bore and cylinder are very clean, but the outside is a little rough. It has a few spots of surface rust around the S&W logo, the wood grip is chipped at the butt, and it appears that someone tried to clean the opposite side of the logo with something that scratched the finish. I do not own anything in nickel. My question is can nickel be cleaned up the same as SS? Can I bring the Model 19 back to its former glory and save this wheelie?

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Once the nickel is flaking, the only way to refurbish is to have it refinished.

 

[boricua9mm]

I'd tell them that it's going to need a refinish, and then at that point that the collector value price premium will be gone. Assuming typical "gun store price" I'd offer them $150 less and see if you get kicked out of the store or if you enter a price discussion.

A re-nickeled S&W most likely won't fool anybody down the road, so the question becomes 'why do it?" I personally think Hard Chrome would be a much better finish for the life of the revolver, but it's not a factory original configuration, etc. etc. etc.

Just some food for thought, coming from a guy that loves original condition Smiths. Nickeled guns are always a dicey situation. You're also clueless as to what's underneath the grips!

 

[BYJO4]

I would wait until you find what you want in the condition that you want.

 

[TanklessPro]

Once the nickel is flaking, the only way to refurbish is to have it refinished.

There is no flaking at all. None of the blimishes can't be felt, only seen.

 

[TanklessPro]

I would wait until you find what you want in the condition that you want.

Something about the idea of saving a classic that appeals to me. What can I say......

 

[CraigC]

Once the nickel is flaking, the only way to refurbish is to have it refinished.

Yep! If there is rust, the plating is compromised. There's no way to make it look any better without refinishing. Which is fine, as long as you understand and accept the costs involved. The refinisher I would use for a job like that, Accurate Plating & Weaponry, gets $335 for bright nickel. Then figure $150 for overnight shipping both ways. You have to get a sixgun for real cheap or just really want to go this route to justify the cost. Perhaps S&W would be less expensive but it won't be by much.

http://www.apwcogan.com

 

[TanklessPro]

Yep! If there is rust, the plating is compromised. There's no way to make it look any better without refinishing. Which is fine, as long as you understand and accept the costs involved. The refinisher I would use for a job like that, Accurate Plating & Weaponry, gets $335 for bright nickel. Then figure $150 for overnight shipping both ways. You have to get a sixgun for real cheap or just really want to go this route to justify the cost. Perhaps S&W would be less expensive but it won't be by much.

http://www.apwcogan.com

Thanks for he clarification. I'm kinda a nickel dummy. Makes perfect sense since nickel is on top of the steel.

 

[dogrunner]

Depending on just how severe the damage you describe is you just may be able to restore that gun to a presentable level.

By way of background I own a M/19 (no dash) that I picked up in a pawn shop in trade for a M/15 and 20 bucks..........that was way back in 1966! The 19 had some slight pitting in the grooved backstrap and had some discoloration of the existing nickel. I sent that gun back to the factory and had it refinished to as new condition.

Since that gun was my primary duty piece for well over twenty years it saw it's share of nicks and bumps.......dropped once in a fight on an asphalt road which nicked the upper backstrap and resulted in some slight peeling of the nickel. That peel is noticeable IF you look close, but it was easily polished using either Happich semi-chrome paste or Flitz......either will restore the shine to nickel that has gotten cloudy or lightly scratched.

My gun was made in 1959, saw service with two PD's and still looks good......discounting the holster wear on the front and rear sights and minor stuff that in my opinion is just honest wear.

Only you can evaluate if that gun's worth it to YOU. I'd suggest taking the most knowledgable gun buddy you have to look it over and go from there...................


By the way, I just polished up a real dog of an Iver Johnson .32 break top in nickel......some soak time in Kroil to restore it's function and a good polish with Flitz turned that old Owl Head into a presentable piece. Yeah, you can tell where the nickel is missing, but it's not at all bad.

 

[rswartsell]

You can still (how much longer? Who knows) find a similar Mod 19 in the condition you desire for less $ than you will need to spend on this one unless they nearly give it to you. There IS the satisfaction of "rescuing" a classic, and it's your money.

Were it me, I'd beat them down on the price and shoot the screws out of it. You would need to kill the rust, pay attention to maintenance and love it ugly.

 

[BCRider]

Nickel and chrome are funny metal finishes. Both are porous to some extent so they do require regular oiling or waxing to maintain their protective values against corrosion.

In both cases minor amounts of rust can bloom up through the porosity and produce "blooms" of rust that look far worse than the problem really is. In such cases these surface blooms clean away easily with some minor polishing with something like Flitz. But other times if you can feel any raised lumpiness under the plating then it implies that the surface bloom is just a warning about the bubble of crusty iron oxide hiding under the little covering of locked down nickel plate.