Silver Soldering

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Country_Soldier

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Was looking around online for a new shotgun and came across some nice ones that I like, just got one problem, been shooting rifles so long in the Army that I have lost the art of using the bead site, and I require some sort of aiming device, would prefer a scope so I can see my target alot easier. The shotguns I am looking at are single shot 410 ga.. Wanting to use it for hunting rabbit and squirrel (why don't I use an air rifle? Ft Hood regs say I have to use a shotgun).

So here is my question, I have been reading that I can't have these shotguns drilled and tapped, but I read somewhere about silver soldering. Does it work? Will it stand up to 410 ga. recoil? How often would I have to take the shotgun back for re-soldering? Biggest question, is it a good idea and how much would I be looking into spending to get it done? Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks THR
 
Silver soldering would be strong enough to secure a scope mount, no problem there. My question is why not look for clamp on, scope mounts or other types of sighting devices that can be clamped on or screwed to your shotguns receiver rather than barrel. It would be far cheaper and be reversible.

Roger
 
says the metal is to thin for drill and tap, was looking at single shot 410's like H&R, EAA, and a few others, their not drilled and tapped, looked at the owners maunal, says it can't be drilled and tapped, and while looking around the web I found one place where they said they had their silver soldered. just thought I would ask, may be a viable way of securing a scope

velocette - any recommendations on a clamp on style scope?
 
It seems very unlikely you need a scope on a .410 to shoot rabbits.

Why don't you get the gun and try it first.

You can hit a running rabbit with a shotgun bead sight.
Or no sight at all.

Not so much with a scope on it.

rc
 
Silver solder would work. Just heat it enough (but not too much). My concern is getting something to clamp the bead on tight enough. I'll ask my shotgun gunsmithing instructor on Monday. Sights were discussed, but not their mounting. Most of our guns were drilled and tapped for front bead sights.

BTW, so far in class we've lengthened forcing cones, back bored the barrels, installed choke tubes (requires measuring the barrel wall thickness at three points, reaming the barrel, tapping it for the choke tube). This Monday we port a barrel.
 
+1000 Chawbaccer!!

Apparently the OP is a man with no understanding of how a shotgun is used, as opposed to a rifle.

I tried to say in post #5 scoping a .410 for rabbit hunting would be a bad mistake.

So I'll say it again.

It Would Be a Bad Mistake.

rc
 
actually, you guys are right, putting optics on .410 for shooting someting that close, I don't know, maybe just need to get out and try it out. was just concerned, haven't really used shotgun in years for hunting, did when I was a kid, dad would only let me shoot at sitting rabbits (guess he was afraid me being that young I would swing to far and start accidentally pointing at others, idk), but then got away from hunting for many years, got in the Army, then somewhere got back into it. Did buy a shotgun though, more home defense, Mossberg 590 SP. Took it to the range and couldn't seem to get a handle on the bead site, so I gave up, fit it with a UTG rail and EO Tech holo site, was shooting great again.

Dad was telling me I'm trying to shoot a shotgun like a rifle, maybe need to just get out there with the shotgun and just shoot it till I get it right.
 
First off, the others are right. A scope on a 410 would be a bad idea. Second, you CAN learn to shoot a shotgun again. Third, don't base your ability to shoot a hunting shotgun on results you got using a tactical type gun. The Mossburg site says the 590 SP has a cylinder choke which is basically almost none at all so the pattern will spread out REALLY fast. It also shows the gun having a heat shield and a somewhat clunky shape. A nice sporting shotgun that fits you practically points itself. A gun that fits you well, with a modified choke will do well for most small game hunting. Go to a good gun shop or better yet, ask around on the base if there is anyone who shoots competitive skeet or trap and talk to that guy. Not all the guys who shoot trap or skeet are good shots on live game but they dang sure know about proper form and fit of a shotgun. You just might find a whole new way to spend your free time and not so free money.

If you decide to go with a 410, be aware that there are a lot fewer bb's in them than a 12 or 20 gauge shell. Honestly, I am a big fan of the 410 for rabbit hunting but I'm a medium fair shotgun shooter. It is real common for people using a 410 to go with smaller shot so that there are more bb's in each shell but I do the opposite. I like #4 shot best for hunting because it will go nearly through a rabbit and rabbits don't take but 3 or 4 pellets to kill them. I'd much rather eat a rabbit shot with a 410 at 25 yards with #4 shot than one shot at the same distance with a 12 gauge. I've shot a lot of rabbits and other small game with my 12 gauge before I switched and spent a lot of time spitting bb's out at the dinner table. Rabbits are real easy to kill but squirrels are almost bionic sometimes. The bigger shot really makes a difference on the squirrels so it's a win-win for me. I also know that when hunting with my 410's I need to limit my shot distance and be a little more precise than with a 12 gauge so I tend to take just a split second extra to make sure I'm "on" before I pull the trigger. I think I do better with the 410 than with the 12 which is odd. Many people struggle with hitting game with a 410. For a beginner, I'd suggest a 20 gauge for just a bit more versatility.

Lastly, remember that you don't "aim" a shotgun as much as you "point" it. The best practice starting out is hand thrown clay birds. And I mean literally thrown by hand, not even using a throwing tool. I started my kids on 410's and had them shooting clay birds that I hand threw until they got up some confidence. Later, we switched to a hand thrower. That probably doesn't make sense but the first is thrown with my actual hand, the second is thrown from a tool held by my hand. It's just a plastic handle with a "U" shaped end that a clay bird fits in and you throw like you'd swing a baseball bat and the clay bird comes out about 3 to 5 times faster than you could throw it by hand.

Aw heck, look up clay bird throwers and you'll see what I mean. You probably already know what I mean and are sitting there laughing. :)
 
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