SKS firing problem

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ComputerFlake

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I bought a Chinese SKS the other day and it's having problems. It has the 30 round mag on it instead of the built-in mag but the first round fires perfectly. It loads the next round into the chamber but won't fire. It actually dents the next round before the trigger is even pulled. So here's my question to any SKS owners...

Does your firing pin move around freely with plenty of play in the carrier? Mine has alot of play in it. In fact, when I fired the gun the other day it fired two rounds in a row without my pulling the trigger. This doesn't seem right.

I took the trigger assembly out and cocked the hammer on it and pulled the trigger. It released the hammer properly the first time. The second time it didn't. I had to force the trigger to pull and the tension on it was extremely tight the second pull. Since the trigger doesn't seem to be working, I want to replace it. I cleaned the gas tube and the piston looked fine (I'll eventually be replacing the gas system and the piston with US parts) and since it loaded the next round I'm thinking the gas system is alright. Sounds like I need a new trigger assembly. Does anyone else concur?

Also thinking about replacing the firing pin and carrier since the pin seems so sloppy to the point that it dents the next round without pulling the trigger. Ideas?
 
Yes, the firing pin SHOULD move freely in the carrier. There's no firing pin spring in the SKS design. The denting is normal.

However, to avoid the potential of a slam fire, don't lubricate the firing pin.

Slam firing is NOT normal, and is in fact dangerous.

It does sound as if there is a problem with the trigger group.

Did you buy this gun new or used?

Could someone have been in there before you and messed around with it?

SKS trigger groups are robust, but fiddly to work on.
 
It was used but in excellent condition with all matching numbers on every part. It looks to have been well taken care of but the trigger definitely doesn't seem to be working properly. And I would completely agree with your assessment. The trigger is difficult to work with. It'd be cheaper to just replace the trigger assembly and be done with it.

If it hadn't been converted to the 30 round mag, I'd be disappointed about breaking up the numbered parts but it's not worth any more because of the matching numbers since it's been altered. I might just order a $40 new milled trigger group and see if that fixes it. I can't see it being anything else since it loads the next round flawlessly...even with the 30 round magazine. Since I'm probably going to mod the daylights out of it, I better get the trigger assembly replaced first.

Thanks for the help.
 
The SKS's firing pin should move freely in the bolt. It is not an inertial design and has no spring to restrain/retract it.

The only instances of "doubling" or FA that I've personally experienced or witnessed with SKSs were all with US-made commercial "hunting" ammo. I have fired upwards of 30K rounds of mil-spec and surplus 7.62x39 from a number of SKS carbines of various makes with absolutely no such problem.

The difference, IMO, is the composition of the primers. Military ammo of this caliber is designed to be used in true assault rifles and other FA-capable arms. The material from which the primer's "cup" is made is tougher than those used in commercial loadings to resist the relatively rough handling they get during the firing cycle and the impact of the floating firing pin when the bolt slams into battery. It is common to see a slight indentation on the primer of rounds that have been cycled into the chamber after another round was fired and removed manually. The composition of the priming mixture itself is also less "sensitive" in military loads than those used for "sporting" cartridges.

There is a "disconnect" mechanism built into the SKS's trigger group to prevent the hammer from falling when the bolt is not fully in the "battery" position. This is to prevent a round from being discharged unless the bolt is fully locked in place.

If the weapon has seen considerable use and/or has been poorly maintained, this part have worn to the point that its no longer functionally reliable. If the numbers on your trigger group do not match those of your receiver, it may well be a replacement that was not fitted to spec. There is also the possibility that the bolt is either not locking into battery properly or has incorrect headspacing. An examination by a professional gunsmith or armourer is in order to indentify and correct the exact problem.
 
Mike's right about the firing pin moving freely. Slamfires can be caused by the firing pin sticking(dirty channel), and there are also some FCG (trigger and related parts) issues, mainly (IIRC) with the Chinese rifles, that can cause them. From the sound of it, you have trigger group issues. Fortunately they're not too hard to find. I believe Cheaper Than Dirt still has them.

Good luck, and be careful!
 
Well I was using Remington ammo so that could be an issue with the slam firing. I've seen that happen with the MAK90 using mil-spec ammo too but it was just a fluky thing. You are probably right about the primers. I'll have to pick up some mil-spec ammo at the next gun show.

So far it seems like most people think it's the trigger assembly. I think I'll order one and give it a try. The cheaperthandirt.com site was actually more expensive than any place I've seen the SKS trigger assembly for sale, even new. Even Tapco has them for $10 less. Thanks for the info though.
 
Yeah, Cheaper Than Dirt very often isn't.

Until you get all the issues worked out, you might want to go with milspec ammo(hard primers).
 
Good point about the commercial ammo; I thought I had mentioned it, but I didn't.

Now, there's a way to get around the commercial primer issue. It seems counter intuititive, but it works...

A little thick-bodied grease, such as axel grease, on the firing pin. This is sticky enough that it impeds motion to such a point that inertia firing is a lot less likely, but it still allow the rifle to fire when the trigger is pulled.
 
I'll probably just pick up some military spec ammo at the gun show. Living in Nashville, we get one here almost every week. God bless the South. :)

Besides, I can't justify paying $13.99 for 20 rounds from Bass Pro Shops. What a rip. Even if it was gold plated I wouldn't pay that again.
 
I got a Yugo about 2 months ago, cleaned it for days with degreaser and tons of Break Free..., thought I had done an excellent job of getting the crud outb but when I finally got out to the range to put my first rounds through it...I shoot seven shots and the 8th misfires...I couldn't fire another so I take the rifle apart and see that the firing pin will not move.
A guy in the range shop says "Dont even try taking it apart, just soak it in mineral spirts for a day or 2, then hit it with compressed air". Well, I did just that and now 2 days later and it still wont budge.
Tried "tapping" the retaining pin out ( no luck), and am about to buy a new bolt assembly.
Any advice? Am I missing something?
 
Put a lot of Wolf down range with zero problems. Also a fix for the firing pin can be found on the sksboard mentioned earlier. A Murray firing pin modification will solve the problem. If I had the problem I would use them. I haven't had any problems with any of my sks's aside from having to seat the gas valve on one of my Yugo's. Great weapons. Also if you can get a 20 rnd box of Wolf for $1.50, jump on a few million rounds before someone wakes up!
kid
 
oki,

If you have time this may save you a few bucks.

Let the entire bolt soak in Hoppes 9 for oh, 4 days. Pull it out, and don't try to tap that piece out, whack it. SKS do not take gentle nudging, you need to get a hammer, and rod, and whack that little piece out. I had to do it on mine, and it worked. Got the blasted thing cleaned, hit the range, not a single slam fire.

These guys helped me a ton, http://www.gunboards.com/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=11

Good luck.
 
I have heard that many Chinese imports have spring loaded firing pins. Perhaps not all though.
 
okipapa

did you have the Murray mod installed?

I have had a problem similar in which the primer burst and SLAGGED the fp spring and caused all the parts in the bolt to seize up. sent it back to murray who fixed it for free because he felt that the fp he made hadn't been polished enough.

now THAT is a stand up guy.
 
silverlance

No, no aftermarket stuff on the bolt.
And...about 5 days have gone by now, a couple of days in mineral spirits, a couple more days in brake cleaner, and still wont budge...sheesh.
 
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