sluggish going into battery 1911

[cavman]

I have a Rock River Wadcutter 1911

The little over hang at the rear of the barrel that slips into the groove at the area near the firing pin is a little tight. Just a smidge.

Manually allowing the slide to move forward, it will sometimes stop about 1/8" before going into full and forward position. I think that the sides of that barre rear overhang are just a bit too wide.

I shoot Bullseye.

Will it be okay to take a little sandpaper to the side of the barrel to make it fit better, without the slow hang up?

 

[Kruzr]

Are there rub marks on the sides of the barrel hood extension?

 

[cyclopsshooter]

might need a new recoil spring

 

[cavman]

There are no visible rub marks on the "barrel hood extension". (if that is the part of the barrel that is sticking out at the rear)

The forward end of the barrel is slightly bigger than the barrel, ever so slightly, and there is a little resistance when the barrel goes into the bushing, however.

 

[cavman]

I just checked the bushing. The barrel needs a little push to get through the bushing.

There is a little ridge in the bushing (looks like it has been "buffed" from the outside in. This has created a little lip at the end of the "buff".

The barrel when coming from the rear runs into the little lip.

My question is how much resistance should a Bullseye barrel have going into the bushing?

 

[loadedround]

If a little lube properly placed doesn't cure your problem, then I would replace your recoil spring with a 16 lb spring. Your might possibly up your load a bit until your new spring "breaks in".

 

[gb6491]

Manually allowing the slide to move forward, it will sometimes stop about 1/8" before going into full and forward position....

How well does the pistol work when firing live ammo? If it's reliable I would not worry about it hanging up a little when cycling by hand. If the round count is low that little hesitation may work itself out after more use.
Regards,
Greg

 

[schmeky]

Since it's a RR target gun , the barrel bushing is going to probably be mininally clearanced and the lower barrel lugs may be very snug as well. Combined, there can be a delay in slide closing when slowly cycling by hand.

It will wear in with use, if these conditions exist.

 

[tjj]

+1

If it is cycling fine when firing then don't be sanding anything. It will break in. Just keep it well lubed.

Don't sand any surface anyway. Use a file or stone for more controlled and precise metal removal. Just remember, metal removed is forever. Make real sure you understand what all the effects will be before removing any metal on any gun part. Mistakes get expensive sometimes.

 

[rcmodel]

Lube the crap out of everything that moves, and keep shooting it.

It will break in and be a very accurate gun.

Take metal off now and it won't be.

I'd also second the stronger recoil spring until it loosens up from break-in.
Wad-cutter guns can be finicky beasts when they are still new & tight and it pays to play around with the spring weight.

rc

 

[cavman]

It was also having issues every once in a while when actually firing it.

That said, I did take a bit of sand paper and smooth out that little ridge in the barrel bushing. Now, the bushing doesn't have to be forced over the end of the barrel, it just requires now a little effort.

Hopefully that will prevent any failure to go into battery (as happened during the Bullseye match on Sunday)

Thanks

 

[cyclopsshooter]

tjj +1

 

[ROBBY.1911]

put some dykem on your lower lugs and slide stop. check from there. by the way, this iis a great problem to have, because it tells you the gun was hard-fitted. enjoy!