Smith Warranty, New Used Gun

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Texasred

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Hey guys I just snagged a nice used 686+ with 6" bbl. The gun has a couple scratches and otherwise looks nice. I bought it on clearance at a pawn shop that normally has this thing marked for 500.00. I've been watching this one for over a year and happened to walk in soon after they had marked it down. :neener:
Anyways the gun has a lock, and everything looked good. But the lockup was a little looser than my Ruger GP100 and SP 101. My older 686 also is a little loose but shoots very nice regardless. So my plan is to just go and shoot it and hope everything works out fine.
Should the gun not be very accurate can I assume that the lockwork may need some attending and that Smith and Wesson can be relied upon to remedy this?
Does their lifetime warranty apply to the gun or to the original purchaser?
 
Technically, the warranty applies only to the original owner

From the S&W web site:

1. Lifetime Service Policy

We will repair any defect in material or workmanship without charge to the original purchaser for as long as you own the handgun.
 
gwnorth has it right: 'technically'....

1. Two-plus years ago I bought a used 442--looked like it had been fired less than 50 rounds, but the finish was carry-worn on the ears. I called S&W about it--found out it had been manufactured within the preceding twelve months--and, based on my description, said they would stand behind it. I traded it in some 300-rounds later with no adverse affects.

2. I bought new a 640 / current--has over 20,000 rounds down range. At about round 300, it had five very overpressure reloaded rounds shot through it. The chambers were expanded. I sent it to S&W and told them the truth--and they replaced the cylinder and maybe the barrel, n/c.

However, I sent that same gun a few weeks ago, again honestly describing its usage with reloaded rounds. The service this time include a new ejector, springs, hammer(?) and maybe forcing clone cleanup--total bill, incl. 2-day one-way, about $135.00.

With your 686, who is to say? Call and find out when it was made. If it's reasonably new, and not shot an awful lot by its original owner, they may well cover it. But, it really is on a case-by-case basis if you are not the original owner. Even if they charge you, their fees do seem to me to be reasonable.

Jim H.
 
Shot the gun this afternoon, VERY, very accurate...but, I was getting light primer strikes and only could get off about 50% of my rounds with four different types of ammunition. I suspect that the previous owner had maybe switched out a spring or two because the trigger is ridicuosly smooth and light for a double action. I know that the 7 shot models have nice triggers because of the shorter distance traveled by the cylinder. But I have 2 Rugers, a Dan Wesson, and another Smith 686 and it beats them with an ugly stick. Can I remedy this on my own. I'm not worried about the lockup because the gun was very accurate. But I was considering sending it back to SW just to have some work done on it if it needs so. I was also considering one of their "Master Revolver" packages, what do you think?
 
IME, S&W may correct a manufacturing defect on a used gun at no cost. I think this is excellent customer relations on their part. However, on a used gun that's loose due to normal wear, I'd certainly expect to pay for the work.

The strain screw is the screw that sets the basic tension of the hammer spring. It's on the front of the grip strap toward the bottom. It may be covered by your grips.

The light primer strikes could be due to either weak springs/strain screw OR excessive end-shake in the cylinder. Also it could be a short firing pin. But since you said it was loose, I'd check endshake. Smiths and Rugers don't need to lock up perfectly tight in the XY plane to be accurate - a little wiggle gives room for the bullet to align the chamber and forcing cone upon firing, allowing for not-freedom-arms-level manufacturing techniques. A perfectly tight cylinder with misaligned chambers would be quite irritating in contrast.

Endshake, however, does not help in this process, and causes further battering especially with heavy loads. If the primer is nearly out of reach when the cylinder is pushed all the way forward then you've definitely got an issue. You might test it by making sure the cylinder is all the way rearward before each shot. If you get consistent ignition that way you might narrow it down. Likely the inertia of the cylinder and ammo will be sufficient to prevent the firing pin from pushing the whole assembly forward, but I'm speculating.

-Daizee
 
Red, if the strain screw is not a player (seated fully & tightly), and endshake does not appear excessive consider the mainspring. I replaced the rebound spring in my 686 but left the stock mainspring because I wanted sure-fire ignition. Trigger pull is a feather on SA, and very acceptable on DA. I have a Mod 10 that was getting light strikes & misfires, and found the strain screw had backed out ~ 1/4 (only one fourth!) turn. Tightened it up and problem solved. You'll still see some people advocate loosening it for a quickie trigger job, but I have never found it to do so without affecting relliability. The mainspring is an easy replacement; check out the Mod 10 sticky at the top for details or ask here for a deluge of info.... :cool:
 
Smiths and Rugers don't need to lock up perfectly tight in the XY plane to be accurate - a little wiggle gives room for the bullet to align the chamber and forcing cone upon firing, allowing for not-freedom-arms-level manufacturing techniques. A perfectly tight cylinder with misaligned chambers would be quite irritating in contrast.

Just ask anyone who's had an out of time Colt about that.

I'll take the reliability and durability that comes with slightly wiggly cylinders of S&W or Ruger guns over the extremely delicate lockwork of a Colt, especially considering how few 'smiths know how to fix Colts right.
 
Alrighty! I finally had the time to check it out. Your guess was good and it was the strain screw, it was backed out completely, too the point that the single action wouldn't work....I forgot to mention this. Now the hammer has much more force and the single action works. Best 350.00 dollars I have ever spent, a practically new 686+ 6". I am very happy!
 
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