I have an opertunity to buy two SMLE no. 1 mark III's for a very good price. Both are good shooters however on one of them it is very hard to rotate the bolt after a shot is fired, it works fine empty or even cycling rounds but after a shot it is a bear to move. any ideas what is causing this?? is this fixable or should I just get the good shooter that functions correctly?
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SMLE questions
- Thread starter fgr39
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Destructo6
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Bad headspace, probably. Get it checked and adjusted.
One of the really nice features of the SMLE's are different sized bolt heads. When headspace becomes an issue, move to a larger size. Whala.
Take it to a smith and have them check it. If you need to bump up a bolt head size, go here for parts:
www.bdlltd.com (brian dick, very nice guy has all you'll need)
www.e-gunparts.com
Either will have what you need more than likely.
Take it to a smith and have them check it. If you need to bump up a bolt head size, go here for parts:
www.bdlltd.com (brian dick, very nice guy has all you'll need)
www.e-gunparts.com
Either will have what you need more than likely.
RON in PA
Member
Since you state that the rifle is a #1 mk 111, please note that changing bolt heads is not necessarily easy as the SMLE bolt head is individual to that bolt and not as interchangeable as the bolt head on the #4 rifle. I don't think that head space is the only answer for the sticky bolt problem, but I don't have a good explanation. If it was me I'd pass on the gun and buy the other. Remember these rifles are often veterans of WW1 and show their age.
I didn't check the serial numbers on the bolt but if it is the original bolt I didn't think it would be not enough headspace prob. also wouldn't it be just as hard to chamber a round if it didn't have enough headspace, it is only after being fired that the bold is hard to move. I know the bolt heads are not like the no. 4's but would it be worth it to get for $50??
Ron's right, I didn't read your initial post very well. I thought you were talking about a No4 rifle. Bolt heads aren't interchangeable in the No1's (at least not as easily).
There are larger and smaller bolt heads, tho, and if you have access to a larger one, sometimes this can be used to correct headspace, but it's still a job for the smith IMHO.
There are larger and smaller bolt heads, tho, and if you have access to a larger one, sometimes this can be used to correct headspace, but it's still a job for the smith IMHO.
hondo68
Member
Bolt/b head threads locking?
I'm thinking that the threads on the bolt and bolt head are locking up under the force of fireing. The problem may be that the shoulders of the bolt and bolt head are not meeting when the bolt's closed. It's likely someone mismatched the bolt and head. Can you get a feeler guage much larger than .002" in between them when the bolt's closed?
The probable solution... a large pile of bolts and heads, mix and match until the headspace and head gap are correct.
I'm thinking that the threads on the bolt and bolt head are locking up under the force of fireing. The problem may be that the shoulders of the bolt and bolt head are not meeting when the bolt's closed. It's likely someone mismatched the bolt and head. Can you get a feeler guage much larger than .002" in between them when the bolt's closed?
The probable solution... a large pile of bolts and heads, mix and match until the headspace and head gap are correct.
Okiecruffler
Member
I'll second the vote for a pitted chamber
My Ishy was doing the same thing until I atttacked it with some sand paper and a dowel rod. Cases would get so stuck that it would take a rubber mallet to open the bolt. I couldn't complain too much since that was the reason I got it so cheap.
My Ishy was doing the same thing until I atttacked it with some sand paper and a dowel rod. Cases would get so stuck that it would take a rubber mallet to open the bolt. I couldn't complain too much since that was the reason I got it so cheap.
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