Solid, cheap, single-shot break open 12 gauge shotgun with manual extractors

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rjc149

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Hey all,

I own a NEF Pardner in 12 gauge and the ejector jams sometimes, leaving the spent shell stuck in the breech and forcing me to find a stick to poke it out. I was wondering if there are any good, inexpensive single-shot break open shotguns, either modern production or discontinued models, that feature manual extractors instead of spring-powered ejectors.

Thanks, I appreciate any replies.
 
Chamber has concentric machine mill marks.

I have shot several of these. They selectively throw out full cartridges and fail to extract shot ones. You can make it work better with a little ATF down the ejector device, and work it back and forth a little by closing it gently. Some shells do stick much worse than others. I would be just as happy with a robust extractor, but only dislike the loud tink noise it makes.

You might try waxing the chamber walls lightly, like with a birthday candle. If you get it hot that will run out. That would help as well. Using a bronze brush on it might help, plastic stuck in the barrel of one of mine and I thought it was a dark rust spot, it did not come out for months of shooting and brushing infrequently. One day I noticed it was gone and expected a pit, but they are chrome lined and it was pristine. You may have a little something stuck in your chamber along the wall.

The NEF singles work surprisingly well. Worst trouble is usually recoil due to light weight.

There probably aren't any solid and cheap single shot break action 12 gauges, as Winchester 37 and 37A are not cheap anymore and almost no one sells them. They are better than an NEF or an H & R in my opinion.
 
I sprayed some WD40 into the spring mechanism housing, right beneath the chamber. It seemed to fix the problem, the shells eject reliably. But I don't want something like this happening again, I really wish there was an extractor where the leverage generated by breaking the gun open would pull the shell out of the chamber, regardless of whatever gunk was in there. That would truly make the gun bomb-proof.

Oh yes, and the gun kicks like Mike Tyson circa 1990 just smoked PCP and punched you in the shoulder. If you've fired 3-inch magnum slugs out of it, no safari rifle can give you cause for fear. Fire more than three shells, and you will be in pain. You will absolutely get black and blue on your armpit, even your cheek will be puffy and yellow. I read somewhere that filling the stock with shot would increase the weight and lessen the recoil. I tried this, my buddy's dad reloads shotgun shells and has loose shot in his workshop. All it felt like was Mike Tyson put on a boxing glove filled with lead and punched me in the shoulder.
 
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I had an Ithaca M-66 Supersingle years ago that had an extractor rather that an ejector. They turn up from time to time on the used market. They have an underlever, like a lever action rifle. You'll know one as soon as you see it.

but only dislike the loud tink noise it makes.

That's funny because I always like that "TINK!" sound for some reason.
 
A lot of shotguns come from the factory in the box with a thin coating of a thick grease protectant, and over the years if left there will attact powder fouling, dust, lint, gummy residue from cleaning, etc.

With the springloaded ejector that trips when the gun is opened, lube, dirt and gummy residue can build up until the ejector drags and eventualy stops ejecting. My H&R shotgun did the same after about ten years, until I made a point of once a year thorough cleaning and flushing the mechanisms whether they needed it or not.
 
What kind of shells are sticking in the chamber?
Might be your ejector is working fine, the shells you are using are expanding too much to allow the ejector to kick them free.
An extractor gun won't solve this problem.
Avoid using the brand of shells that commonly stick in the chamber...
 
Hey thanks for all the replies.

It always ejects the 2 3/4 skeet and game loads reliably, but it's the 3-inchers that give it problems sometimes. I suspect the greater metal-to-metal surface contact with the longer brass creates more friction. But I'm almost certain it's a problem with gum and goo in the ejector housing like Carl Brown mentioned, because lubricating the mechanism seemed to solve it.

I'll have to go to Cabela's and see if they have any singles with extractors on the used gun rack.
 
Rjc, get some ether and get that WD40 out of the mechanism pronto. It may lube it NOW, but give it enough time, and WD40 will turn into glue, making the original problem even worse.

Use either dry lube or something like clp or remoil, that wont dry into a sticky coating
 
I wouldn't worry about the ejection too much in a single shot. It isn't like you're going to be using it for anything that requires fast reloading, at least I hope not.

I do get that it's annoying to have a semi automatic that doesn't want to eject but I just don't see it as a major problem with a single shot.
 
I wouldn't worry about the ejection too much in a single shot. It isn't like you're going to be using it for anything that requires fast reloading, at least I hope not.

I do get that it's annoying to have a semi automatic that doesn't want to eject but I just don't see it as a major problem with a single shot.
It is always a problem when a firearm does not work as designed.
 
It is always a problem when a firearm does not work as designed.
Right but if you're using a single shot for anything that requires you to reload quickly, you're not exactly making the best choice in the first place.
 
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