SP101 Trigger pull

[DDrake]

I recently bought a Ruger SP101 (double-action only 5 shot revolver) and I am having trouble with the trigger pull. Basically after shooting 30 rounds, my finger started to ache (not because of the gun hitting the hand after the shot, but because of the strong double-action only trigger).


I've been told it is best to use the tip of your finger to push the trigger.... I can not do that with this gun. What I've been doing is pushing the trigger with the dead center of my finger... only way I can get it to work. Sometimes, I won't be able to push it far back enough (very close to dropping the hammer) and I will need to release the trigger... take a small break... get back to it.



Is this the issue with the grip or the trigger? Is it possible I can put a larger grip on it to give me more leverage? Do I need to do finger sit-ups to get my finger-mussels all in shaped


I really want to be able to go to the range, shoot 100 rounds and have fun with this revolver. Right now, it is painful.

 

[rich636]

Knocking the edges off the trigger will help some on the finger wear. I would hesitate to change the springs if it is your carry gun, unless you test a bunch of your carry ammo first to make sure it will pop the primers. If you decide to do so check out the Wolff spring kits.

 

[Stainz]

Do a search over at the Ruger forum for 'SP101 Tuning' - and follow the excellent steps in dissecting, deburring, and re-springing your SP101. I put the softest springs in the Wolff kit (Brownell's) in my 4" .32M SP101, bought with the nastiest/stiffest DA trigger I've ever experienced in a new firearm. Okay, my 1895 Nagants tweaked - are still worse. That was the most dramatic improvement I have ever experienced in a trigger - probably more of an indictment on Ruger's poor QC than anything else, sadly. It pops all primers - and all commercial loads I have tried - too. The SP101 trigger can be better than a J-frame S&W - but not a K/L/N-frame, of course.

Stainz

PS Where it suggests putting the trigger group in a ZipLoc bag to 'catch' wayward springs, it IS a good idea!

 

[MCgunner]

I bought a Wilson spring kit for mine, but haven't messed with it, yet. Plan to put the light one on and try it soon. I don't have a problem with it, really, as is. It's very smooth, just a little on the heavy side.

The zip lock bag is a good idea. I haven't pulled the spring on the SP, yet, but when I tuned my old Security Six back in the day, I put the paper clip in it, pulled the strut, then compressed the spring on a table and removed the clip. Probably do that with the SP, too, and use the bag so I don't lose the spring if I slip.

BTW, it don't have to be a good trigger to be better than the J frames. LOL But, I did the trigger on my Security Six and it turned out better than both my M19 (a K frame) and my M10 (a K frame) at the time. I still have the M10 and it's not a lot better than my SP, no smoother, just a bit lighter. If I lighten the pull, I don't need any trigger work otherwise.

 

[fletcher]

I replaced the springs with a lighter set of Wolff springs (both hammer and trigger) in my GP101 and it made a noticeable difference. I imagine it would have a similar effect on your SP101. Just make sure to put a few dozen rounds through to check if they all go *bang*.

 

[ronto]

I just dry fired mine for about a week while watching TV and the trigger smoothed out nicely and my finger must have gotten a little stronger during the process also.
If the grips are too small for your hands try Trausch Grips at www.trausch.com and click on the American Flag.
If all this fails, its time for a "trigger job" either a DIY or by a gunsmith depending on your level of mechanical ability. In my case, I'd opt for a professional job since I use mine for SD and I don't like to monkey with something I don't fully understand that my life my depend on.

 

[MK11]

I'm a big Ruger fan and usually sneer at Smith snobs who look down on the GP100's trigger but I have to admit the trigger pull on the SP101 ranges from OK to awful. Mine was awful--sharp edges and extremely heavy that no amount of dry firing would touch. I sent mine off to Gemini Customs and now I'm very pleased, but it's still a pain to send your stock gun off to become acceptable.

 

[MCgunner]

I imagine it would have a similar effect on your SP101. Just make sure to put a few dozen rounds through to check if they all go *bang*.

What I do is compare the hammer indents for depth and size to the other spring. The way I did my old Security Six was to trim the stock spring an iddy biddy bit at a time and fire primed brass in it in the house until I noticed the indention getting a little weaker, then stopped trimming. That gun was REALLY light and smooth and 100 percent when I got through.

Now days, there are spring sets more available and I decided that was a little more sane than trimming the spring. But, I'm still going to compare indentations between spring weights. I have two main springs to try, 10 and 12 lbs I think they are. The stock one is probably about 14, overkill to say the least.

 

[Ghost Tracker]

I did a 2 hour trigger job on my SP101 (see Stainz suggestion above) by carefully following a set of instructions I pulled off the Ruger forum. I additionally used diamond hones, Mother's Mag polish, and a 2x Jeweler's Loupe. The results were WONDERFUL & I didn't touch the stock springs at all. The trigger pull on my SP101 is now almost as good as that of my tuned S&W Model 13.

 

[Cosmoline]

The Wolff springs are good. But keep in mind that if it's a new SP, it takes about 500 rounds or more to get it tuned up.

 

[GaryP]

Ruger ships their SP101's with a 14 lb Hammer Spring. This is overkill for sure but it keeps the corporate lawyers happy. I found that an 11 lb Hammer Spring in my SP101 .357 Mag and SP101 .32 H&R Mag results in 100% ignition but my SP101 .22LR required at least a 12 lb spring for 100% ignition with all ammo. In each case there is a noticable difference in DA trigger pull over the 14 lb stock springs.

 

[Rexster]

FWIW, other than being a mite heavy, the trigger pull on the most recent SP101 snubby I bought is smooth, and I mean really smooth. My first two SP101 snubbies were customized by Jack Weigand, so I know a smooth SP101 trigger when I feel one. When I shoot an SP101, I use the part of my trigger finger just past the first joint, which I know is not "proper" but it works for me.