BigSlick
Member
Hi guys,
I finally got a chance to get into the SP101 with the IBOK by my side.
The trigger is now MUCH smoother in both SA and DA.
The SA seems to have just a little creep to it still. I don't notice the same in DA, so I'm pretty sure the issue is the SA related only.
While I was able to understand the points to polish, I (totally due to my being new to this type of action) am a little unclear on where to address the single action stackup/creep.
On the sear itself ? If so, would it be better to look at the hammer, or the trigger ? Possibly in the trigger return spring tunnel/plunger ?
The SA sear ledge is *very* small and it is definitely easy to see the contact point. Not knowing enough about the geometry of the SP101 SA sear, I'm unsure what needs attention.
The SA sear has a slight ridge (maybe just a tool mark) right on the edge of the contact area. I'm not sure if this is by design to add a definite let off when the sear trips, or a machine mark that needs to be dressed a little.
I have a little Dykem, I plan to apply it to the sear and hammer and dry fire it enough to see where the actual wear point is.
My question is, should I be looking somewhere else for the SA sear stack up/creep ?
I went slow during the process, using a hard Arkansas stone and a crocus cloth with breakfree on it.
I broke the edges of the hammer strut shaft and smoothed the ball and wedge out as much as possible without taking off any more metal than was absolutely minimally necessary. There are two *very* slight ridges left just under the 'ball' on both the front and back (top and bottom ?) right below the ball.
Would this possibly be contributory to the SA stack as well ?
I would like to get the SA break to be crisp and clean. Light(er) would be nice, but it's light enough to work with as it is if I have to.
Total SA travel is about 1/16th inch with the first half feeling rough and gritty. Then it loads up, and breaks cleanly.
What am I missing here ?
I have resisted my inclination to remove the ridge on the SA sear and redress the hammer strut until someone that knows a lot more about the SA sear can enlighten me.
I *really* don't want to remove too much, or the wrong metal.
After the whole process, the DA is nice and smooth and feels much lighter even though I haven't changed the hammer spring (yet). It will be here this week.
I can't help but think it would also help if Ruger might add just a drop or two of oil to these during assembly.
My SP101 was completely dry inside, springs and all. I added lube very sparingly, but can tell a big difference fron the lube.
As you would expect, everything feels a whole lot smoother now.
If I can get past this SA creep thing, I will be 1000% happy.
If nothing else, the SP101 has to be the easiest revolver I've ever seen to disassemble and reassemble.
Can any of you good folks point me in the right direction here ?
Thanks in advance for the help
'Slick
I finally got a chance to get into the SP101 with the IBOK by my side.
The trigger is now MUCH smoother in both SA and DA.
The SA seems to have just a little creep to it still. I don't notice the same in DA, so I'm pretty sure the issue is the SA related only.
While I was able to understand the points to polish, I (totally due to my being new to this type of action) am a little unclear on where to address the single action stackup/creep.
On the sear itself ? If so, would it be better to look at the hammer, or the trigger ? Possibly in the trigger return spring tunnel/plunger ?
The SA sear ledge is *very* small and it is definitely easy to see the contact point. Not knowing enough about the geometry of the SP101 SA sear, I'm unsure what needs attention.
The SA sear has a slight ridge (maybe just a tool mark) right on the edge of the contact area. I'm not sure if this is by design to add a definite let off when the sear trips, or a machine mark that needs to be dressed a little.
I have a little Dykem, I plan to apply it to the sear and hammer and dry fire it enough to see where the actual wear point is.
My question is, should I be looking somewhere else for the SA sear stack up/creep ?
I went slow during the process, using a hard Arkansas stone and a crocus cloth with breakfree on it.
I broke the edges of the hammer strut shaft and smoothed the ball and wedge out as much as possible without taking off any more metal than was absolutely minimally necessary. There are two *very* slight ridges left just under the 'ball' on both the front and back (top and bottom ?) right below the ball.
Would this possibly be contributory to the SA stack as well ?
I would like to get the SA break to be crisp and clean. Light(er) would be nice, but it's light enough to work with as it is if I have to.
Total SA travel is about 1/16th inch with the first half feeling rough and gritty. Then it loads up, and breaks cleanly.
What am I missing here ?
I have resisted my inclination to remove the ridge on the SA sear and redress the hammer strut until someone that knows a lot more about the SA sear can enlighten me.
I *really* don't want to remove too much, or the wrong metal.
After the whole process, the DA is nice and smooth and feels much lighter even though I haven't changed the hammer spring (yet). It will be here this week.
I can't help but think it would also help if Ruger might add just a drop or two of oil to these during assembly.
My SP101 was completely dry inside, springs and all. I added lube very sparingly, but can tell a big difference fron the lube.
As you would expect, everything feels a whole lot smoother now.
If I can get past this SA creep thing, I will be 1000% happy.
If nothing else, the SP101 has to be the easiest revolver I've ever seen to disassemble and reassemble.
Can any of you good folks point me in the right direction here ?
Thanks in advance for the help
'Slick
