Speed up hammer fall with stronger spring?

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eldon519

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I'm contemplating getting some trigger work done on my Bisley, and a thought occurred to me that perhaps I could get the trigger mechanism lightened lower than I would like but then use a heavier mainspring to get it back to where I like. The advantage in my mind would be a faster hammer fall. Compared to my S&W, it feels like the Ruger hammer falls about as slow as the sun in the evening west. If I did succeed at this venture, would there be any problems like piercing primers? I suppose I could also reduce the trigger return spring and increase the main spring strength to even it out. I'm pretty happy with a SA trigger around 4-5 lbs, I just want my present trigger pull to be more crisp.
 
Many knowledgeable SA smiths will install heavier than standard mainsprings to shorten lock time. My Bisley uses an extra power mainspring and the hammer does fall faster. I think it is a good idea on a SA revolver that already has a slow locktime with the standard spring. Many people install lighter springs in the belief that it will improve the trigger pull. It won't solve the problem and will introduce a new one. A SA gun set up like that will be harder to hit with simply because you will move the gun after the hammer is released. All trigger improvement work must be done on the hammer hooks and sear nose. Playing with lighter springs is not the way to go. With careful stoning I can get a Ruger SA down to a crisp 1.5 lbs. with an extra power mainspring.
 
I'll be contrarian:

First, handgun lock time, IMO, is highly overrated. It's true that precision rifle shooters might be concerned with it when trying to eek out the last iota of accuracy, but at this point they're well into sub-MOA accuracy. In contrast, a good handgunner is doing well to shoot 10 MOA.

Also, a faster hammer is beneficial when coupled with a lighter hammer. A DAO revolver with a bobbed hammer delivers a faster, more powerful hammer blow with less momentum. Power is what ignites primers, but momentum is what jars the muzzle upon hammer strike. The hammer of a SA revolver can't be lightened appreciably, though, so increasing speed means more momentum, and therefore more muzzle jar, likely offsetting any tiny benefit you might see by decreasing lock time.

There's plenty written on tuning SA revolvers. If it were my gun, I'd stick to those recommendations.
 
Heavier spring, lighter hammer, smoothed up surfaces.

Even some smiths use brass tubes and ream out the hammer pivot hole to accept the brass. The brass against steel hammer pivot pin takes some friction out of it.

Several ways to speed up the hammer lock time.

Deaf
 
Would more speed/impact from the hammer actually have that much affect? It seems like it would be pretty consistent shot-to-shot.
 
Don't!!

A SA hammer is heavy enough to move the gun before it fires if over-sprung..

You will find a lighter spring, and slower lock-time that doesn't jar the sights off target will be more accurate over-all.

rc
 
where exactly, is this ''plenty written about tuning sa revolvers''
i tried searching thr with no luck, but this info must be here.
 
Over the past few years I did the spring shuffle. I tried 26#, 23#, 20# 18# and some less than that. I narrowed my selection to 26, 23 & 20. I have 3 SBHs , 2 at 5.5" and 1 at 4.6", all with Dragoon grip frames and un-fluted cylinders. Each gun had a different spring. I fired 35 rounds per gun off hand at 10 yds. I had three targets set up side by side in a vertical fashion, I would fire 5 and grab a different gun and fire 5 more. The gun with the 20# spring gave the best group on all firings. I have placed 20# springs in the other 2 guns. Now as some people will say, YMMV.
 
Compared to my S&W, it feels like the Ruger hammer falls about as slow as the sun in the evening west

I am not sure what S&W model you are comparing to the Ruger. If you are comparing the single action on a double action modern S&W revolver to a Ruger Bisley the longer hammer fall on the Ruger is the nature of it's design.

The advantage in my mind would be a faster hammer fall...I'm pretty happy with a SA trigger around 4-5 lbs, I just want my present trigger pull to be more crisp.

You seem to be talking about two different issues.

A longer hammer fall is the nature of the beast for single action revolvers. Because it has a slightly longer distance to travel it makes it slower although you are talking about a faction of second.

A good gunsmith can give your gun a crisp trigger with less overtravel.





________________________________________________________________________________________

Just call me Elmer.
 
First, handgun lock time, IMO, is highly overrated. It's true that precision rifle shooters might be concerned with it when trying to eek out the last iota of accuracy, but at this point they're well into sub-MOA accuracy. In contrast, a good handgunner is doing well to shoot 10 MOA.
Agreed! Which is why ALL of my three dozen single actions have lighter hammer springs, coupled with smoothing the innards.

Folks have this misconception that because most revolvers come with heavy hammer springs, that they are necessary, or even beneficial. In reality, most revolvers are oversprung from the factory to ensure absolutely reliability with their gritty actions. Remove the roughness from the action and you don't need heavy springs.
 
If you're going to be working on your SA it is a good idea to get a copy of Kuhnhausens shop manual for Ruger SA revolvers.
 
I agree with the "no diff" crowd. If you have action/reaction, a hammer with a heavier spring is going to start with more reaction than the same hammer with the lighter spring. What is gained as far as control?
You can lighten the action, mainspring and still get faster lock time if you reduce the "stuff" that the hammer has to overcome on the way down. That is where the secret can be found.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
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