Sporterized Arisaka 6.5 T38

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Wachtelhund

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I am posting after reading various posts, mostly old on this forum and others. There seems to be a few of these sporterized Arisaka out there. People who buy them seem to have problems finding dies and brass to reload them. So hopfully this might help others who purchased these rifles.

I recently purchased a very nice sportized 6.5 Arisaka T38 on Gunbroker.com. Barrel and action had been turned down, shortened and polished, and bluing was very good-95%. Stock was a walnut Bishop MonteCalo, also very nice. Weaver bases with a nice Bushnell Scopechief 4 X scope, clear and useable. Trigger reworked removing the two stage pull. With sling.

It was listed as a 6.5 Jap and I was the only one to bid on and won it for $150.00. Later, after winning the bid the seller, a pawn shop, told me it was a 6.5X257 Roberts conversion. All the better I though, until I start looking for reloading dies. Couldn't find any, RCBS and Redding will supply them as custom dies for $150.00 to $170.00. Kind of expensive.

When my gunsmith received it, we did a casting of the chamber, just to be sure. It looked like a .257 Roberts, but the shoulder was a little short, could have been a .257 Kimber or 6.5X 54mm. The bore cleaned up and looked good.

What to do for Dies? For me the solution was easy, rechamber to 6.5x57 Mauser. The 6.5X57 Mauser case is the same lenght as the .257 Roberts, but the shoulder is longer by .00243" and .0016" wider. This is easily a hand rechambering job. I already have a European combination gun 12ga over 6.5X57R that I reload for. There are two 6.5X57 calibers - rimless for bolt actions and Rimmed for combination guns. The dies are the same for the rimmed and rimless version, just different shell holders. The 6.5X57 is a very good German sporting cartridge, not popular here in the States because it was never chambered in a military rifle. It is balistically better than the 6.5X.257 Roberts and balistically equal to the popular 6.5 Swede, using a few grains less of powder.

On the plus side, 6.5X57 Mauser dies sell for $68.00 from RCBS, Hornady, or Redding. Also, 6.5X57mm and 6.5X257 Roberts brass is easily formed from 30-06 or 270 Win cases. I had plenty of .30-06 brass, but no longer had a .30-06 rifle. For the cases, I first cut about about 3/16s off the .30-06 cases on my band saw. Then squared them up on a case trimmer, chambered the neck inside and outside, ran them through a 8X57 Mauser die to push the shoulder back, then through my 6.5X57 Mauser sizing die, and trimmed to lenght. 6.5X57 brass!

I could have rented the reamer and Go Gauge, but instead I ordered the 6.5X57 Mauser reamer this last weekend from Midway for $116.00 minus 10% for the 4th July promotion sale. A Go Gauge from PTG for $27.00. I could sell these later to reduce my cost, but I'll keep them. I always wanted to build a 6.5X57 on a small ring Mauser action. I know someone who has a 7X57 mexican Mauser rusting away in his garage that I have been trying to get for some time.

I hope to be shooting this rifle next week.
 
RB, This will just be a shooter, but is my second in the last 3 months. Just completed a build from scratch for F class shooting. Trued Rem 700 action, Krieger SS heavy varmit barrel chambered in 260 Rem AI, Choat F class prone stock, 20 MOA base, Nikon Monarch 8X32 42mm scope. Mounted scope on a Saturday, Tuesday fire formed brass, Friday fired six test loads, Saturday loaded one and fired to zero and cronogragh for ballistics drop chart, Sunday fired in first meet. My first league shoot I placed second, 3 sets at 300 yds, 433 out of 450 possible.
 
Fascinating.

You paid for a reamer and headspace gauge instead of more expensive dies.
But when you use them on that Next Project Rifle, the cost will come down.
 
Hi, A little update on my 6.5 Jap T38 conversion to 6.5X57 Mauser. Been kind of busy and haven't had time to post. Hand reaming went smooth. I added a Timny trigger. I worked up loads with two bullets, 100 gn BTs and 120 gr A-Maxs and IMR 4350 and went to the range once. The 100 gn BTs shot well just under 1.5" to 2" groups. The A-Maxs shot 2" to 2.5" groups. This was with a 4X fixed scope. Only did one shooting as I've been busy. But my F class league well be finishing this weekend and other summer projects are finished, so I'll have more time working up loads. Gun shoots well enough to buy some 7X57 brass and fire form. I think I'll use this gun this deer season.
 
A nice solution. When those rifles were being worked over, nobody had ever heard of the 6.5x57, so the 6.5-257 was a reasonable choice. Of course, the .257 is nothing but the 7x57 necked down and the the 6.5x57 is nothing but, well, the 7x57 necked down.

Jim
 
Interesting solution. Years ago I went looking for a deer rifle for my fiancee. The shop had 2 Arisakas: a roughly sporterized number in original chambering for $125 and a nicely reblued one in a Fajen stock with Redfield receiver sight in 6.5/.257 Roberts for $65. Clerk explained wildcats don't sell. Bought her the nice rifle, dies and two boxes of .257 ammo to fireform anyway. Wouldn't chamber, because it was still in 6.5 Arisaka. Swapped ammo and dies and found it was a darn nice shooter as-is. Kept the rifle, married the girl. ;)
 
Milsurp Lover

Military bolt guns are really fun to collect and when appropriate, sporterize.
The early Arisaka's are one of the strongest Mauser based rifles out there (in the milsurp world). Some even had chrome lined bores (can't remember if it was the type 38 or 99).

I shoot cast in my '09 Argentine (Lyman 314299 sized to .313) in reformed R-P 30-06 brass. I use R-P because it's different from my other 30-06 brass which is LC and HXP. Makes it easier to tell the difference, i.e., R-P brass is 7.65x53 Arg ammo.

Keep us updated as I enjoy reading about these older milsurps, even if they are modernized!
 
I have a type 38 that has been rebarreled to 300 SAV. I went over it and reworked for a clean, lighter trigger pull and made the feed more reliable. New stock and now I have a nice custom $50 300 SAV. It is my understanding that a lot of these were made over to this cal when they were a dime a dozen and then sold on just about every street corner for hunting rifles.
 
Update on my T38 Arisaka

I had some time to work up loads. 100 gr BTs shot pretty good, but I couldn't get anything heavier to group to my expectations - 1.5". So I re-barreled this T 38 with a Midway Adams & Bennett .264, chrommoly barrel. Had my gunsmith thread and chamber the barrel again to 6.5 X 57mm Mauser, cut and crown to 22".

I purchased an older Hornady reloading book with 6.5 x 57mm load data at a gun show. So I went back to 120 gr, A-Max bullets. The Hornady data for there 120 gr started at 43 grains of IMR 4350 and maxed out at 47.5 grains for a velocity of 2,900 fps. I used Nosler 7 x 57mm brass to form the 6.5 X 57mm case. I loaded in half grain increments from 44 to 47.5 grain. The Adams & Bennett fowled easily and was cleaned after each 5 to 10 sfot firing. But the barrel shot better as more rounds were fired. Break was done with previously loaded ammo. Group size reduced as the load charge increased. Best load was 47.5 grains, but bolt was hard to open and velocity was 3,040 fps. According to the Hornady book the 47.5 charge should have had a MV of 2,900 fps. Other than the bolt being hard to open the cases showed no signs of high pressurer. I assume the Nosler 7 X 57mm brass was a little thicker brass. In the end I went back to 44.0 of IMR 4350. Fired eight shots into a .8" group, MV 2,744 fps. I will used this load for this coming deer season.
 
Arisaka Rifles made into Sporters

I am glad to see that someone else likes Japanese rifle made into sporters. How about posting some pictures. riceone
 
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