Springfield 1911 broken slide stop question

[trigger753]

I have a Springfield Armory GI 45 (Stainless Steel) that has broken it's second slide stop. Both failed at about 1200 rounds. Springfield sent me a replacement for the first one. When the replacement slide stop broke today I noticed it's not stainless steel inside but a porous metal. Both broke in the same place right at the pin on the outside of the slide. Does anyone know if this is a common problem? I have only used WWB, no heavy loads other than a couple magazines of Golden Saber. I ordered a stainless steel one made by Wilson today. I hope that fixes the problem. Any Advice?
Thanks

 

[Robert Hairless]

I don't have any experience with that Springfield version of the 1911 but your descriptions--of the problem and of the material--make me think that the slide stop is a part produced by Metal Injection Molding ("MIM"). I've had MIM slide stops break exactly as you describe.

At this point your idea of jumping to theWilson-Combat part is exactly the right solution. It's pricey but it should simply drop in, and it should put a stop to your problem.

 

[rmw]

Your bbls rearward travel may be being stopped by your slide stop and link rather than the bottom lugs of the bbl contacting the frame , or it could just be poor parts but it is worth checking out .

 

[Jim K]

It could be MIM or, more likely, cast. Either way, if you know anyone who is still forging that part, get one from them.

Jim

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Jim...The Springfield slide stop is a casting...and it's a dead ringer for the Brown Hardcore. Methinks there's a common vendor in the woodpile.

Colt's factory stops are machined barstock. Wilson's Bulletproof is also machined, but has an odd thumbpiece that's actually very functional when maually locking the slide. It brings to mind the old design that was used on the pre A1/1911 Improved models. A little like the one on this vintage 1919 USGI pistol. May require a click to enlarge. The Wilson BP stop also has a machined-in shelf at the rear to prevent premature slidelock, and they usually require a bit of modification to work correctly.

 

[delta53]

Browns hardcore

1911Tuner Are you saying that Browns Hardcore may be a casting also? I hope not since I payed good money for mine

 

[1911Tuner]

Brown Hardcore Stop

Delta...The Brown Hardcore is a casting, but much use has led me to feel that it's a very good casting.

 

[Jim Watson]

My 'smith once showed me three slide stops of different brands. Then he turned them over. The mould marks on the back of the lever were the same on all. There are only so many places actually manufacturing stuff these days.

At least three different brands of those "prefit" lockwork kits are out of the same plant with cosmetic tweaks and packaging to suit the vendors.

 

[1911Tuner]

Parts is Parts

Jim Watson wrote:

>There are only so many places actually manufacturing stuff these days.<
***********

That pretty much covers it. Like when the discussion turns to which 1911 magazine is best. If it's a good-quality magazine, chances are it was made by either OKAY Industries...Check-Mate Industries...Metalform Company...or Mec-Gar, and highly likely one of the first three. Mec-Gar is a fairly new entry. Often made to the (gun)manufacturer's specifications, it's hard to tell the difference between an OEM Colt 7-round mag made by OKAY, CMI, or MFC without the letter ID stamped on the bottom. Of the three, CMI seems to use a better spring, but for all practical purposes, they're identical.

 

[45auto]

I'm "careful" about the wording when manufacturers or resellers describe their product.

If it doesn't say "from barstock" or "forging", I assume it's cast or MIM.

I used to think the word "tool-steel" mean't it was made from a solid piece of steel until I read that tool-steel simply indicates a certain "grade" of steel, rather than the method of manufacturing.

That said, is a barstock or forged slidestop better than a well made, hardened cast slide stop...equal hardness? The pricing difference is substantial...is it worth it?

 

[1911Tuner]

Stops

45AUto asked:

>The pricing difference is substantial...is it worth it?<
************

Well...I guess the answer is: "It depends." What price peace of mind.

I've seen both types of slidestops break...usually in the normal place. The lug...right in that doglegged area where the slidestop shelf bears on it. The corners are sharp, and the cross-section relatively thin.

My half-dozen range-only beaters are not only my recreational toys, but I also use'em for test platforms in order to put the latest and greatest product to the test...and I wring'em out. I've redefined the term "Beater" because I'm anything but kind and gentle. I've had consistently good service from two Brown Hardcore stops. A third one...the first that I installed...broke in the usual place about 15,000 rounds into the beatin'. The other two have long since passed that mark. A McCormick MIM stop repeated the failure at roughly 12,000 rounds. Overall, not bad for a 15-dollar slidestop if you get the gunsmith discount from Brownells. 20 bucks if you don't. The hardcore is a little more at $23.00 with the discount.

Of course, a bad casting or a bad lot of castings is always possible. Same goes for barstock, but with a much reduced chance of a bad part. As with MIM, it the part doesn't fail within a thousand rounds, chances are that it'll go for 25,000 or more.

Besides the sharp-cornered area in the lug, the next weak point is where the arm meets the crosspin. USGI and commercial stops of the same era...and on into the late 60s had a small fillet there that strengthened the area and made it less prone to develop stress-risers and cracks. Even the fully machined barstock Wilson Bulletproof doesn't have this feature, being machined with wire EDM that leaves a depressed area at the junction. Smooth, and better than a sharp corner...but still not as strong as the old ones.

Would I trust a cast slidestop on a carry gun? Sure...if it held up for a 250-300 round proof floggin'. I don't shoot my carry guns very hard BUT...My primary carry guns have USGI small parts in'em, and one IS a USGI pistol...a '43 Colt.

Necessary? Probably not, but I'm pretty anal over reliability...not only the normal "Pull Trigger/Go Bang reliability...but durability too. No guarantees.
Just a little stackin' of the deck to increase the odds against a failure.

98 times in a hundred, when a slidestop fails...it usually fails at the lug. That only causes the slidelock function to fail, and doesn't put the gun out of action. The slidelock function is something that I've never allowed myself to rely on. I work to insure that it does function...and then I ignore it. Being a proponent of reloading on a hot chamber, I've long maintained that if you're fighting for your life, and you shoot the gun empty...you've screwed up. A locked slide and an empty gun is essentially a stoppage...something to be avoided if possible. An engineered stoppage...but still a stoppage. Like surgery is no more than controlled trauma...but it's trauma all the same.

 

[45auto]

I've got about 12,000 rounds on an EGW slidestop which appears to be cast.
Perfect fit and no peening of the shaft or anything. Appears to be hard enough, we'll see! . $20 part by the way...looks well made.

I bought one after breaking the lug of a Colt slidestop, which any slidestop would have broken given what happened, and balked at a new Colt slidestop which was around $50 I believe. The Colt lasted 30,000 rounds and can be used as a backup, just won't lock the slide back. I will just keep testing the EGW and see if it holds up.

In the past with a different gun, I've had a bad barrel fit which has snapped both barstock and MIM slidestops in half where the link contacts the shaft. I don't think the finest made slidestop is any "match" for a poorly fit barrel..."been there and done that".

 

[1911Tuner]

EGW Stop

The EGW stop is a casting, but looks to be another good one. I currently have two in the testing phase, but without enough rounds past'em to make a call just yet. So far, no problems whatsoever.