Springfield scout squad probs. :(

Status
Not open for further replies.

fried

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
7
Ok, I am getting really really frustrated with the quality of new guns. I have sent two "performance center" Smith and Wesson revolvers back for problems (both fixed now). I purchased a new Springfield scout squad to update from my SKS. Less than 75 rounds and the operating rod is striking the forward picatinny rail mounts as it cycles. The rifle kept failing to strip a new round from the magazine (about every other round). Initially, I just thought it needed to break in or the new magazines were tight. A friend noticed the problems. I removed the rail mounts and it STILL fails to feed a round after firing. It is going back to Springfield. Am I cursed with 3 out of 3 new guns needing to go back to the factory or are the new production guns crap?
 
No such thing as a new SKS.
"...a new Springfield scout squad..." Those aren't made for the SKS. They're made for the M1A.
"...STILL fails to feed a round after firing..." Mag issue. Try tweaking the mag lips open a wee bit with long fine needle nosed pliers.
 
sunray 2 s&w's + 1 scout squad =3 guns
the sks is the old gun he isnt frustrated with
 
I purchased a new Springfield scout squad to update from my SKS.

Reading the entire sentence is key.

is the rifle jamming up as it feeds from the mag or is it not stripping a round at all? What ammo are you using? It's possible the rifle is short stroking
 
I didn't even bother reading the other threads, but to me that's just unlucky man! Don't feel like your the only one either! Don't get me wrong you have had some serious bad luck, but I always have things happen to me where I just think to myself, "this crap would seriously only happen to me." That scout squad is a very nice purchase, i like that gun a lot. Anyways, keep firing and stay safe.
 
At the time this all happened I was using Federal gold match 168 grain with new Springfield mags. The gun would fire, cycle, but not strip a new round into the chamber. The magazine was seated properly. I checked multiple times. It was very obvious where the operating rod was striking the forward picatinny rail mounts. I removed the mounts and the rifle still would not feed a new round........????
 
From what you describe, the op rod would go all the way forward after cycling, closing the bolt on an empty chamber? And the round at the top of the magazine was left untouched?

And if this is so, how did the initial round become chambered? Did the rifle chamber a round when you manually pulled the op rod to the rear, and let it fly forward?

If so, preferably with a snap cap or two, try pulling the op rod back to just before the lip of the bolt catches the rear of the top cartridge in the mag. Then try to move the bolt up and down in the action, with your other hand. If there is any kind of significant play (enough for the bolt to "skim over" the top cartridge without stripping it from the mag), I think you've got some bad parts in your rifle.
 
If you removed the mount and it is still having issue then that is not the problem. Did you clean and grease the rifle in the proper places? You need to use grease on an M14. Also make sure your gas cylinder nut is tight and that your spindle valve is open all the way.

Also are the mags 10 or 20 rounders? You said they were SAI (CMI)? Just FYI buy CMI mags as they are $22 for 20 rounders. The SAI mags are made by CMI.
 
The magazine was seated properly. I checked multiple times.

I saw this, but I would check the magazine seating again. The M1A has a somewhat tricky magazine to seat with a sort of straight-up then rock both ways method to get it seated. Some mags will seat AK/FAL style with an angled insertion and a single rock, but not all will - depends on their tolerances. Your problem sounds just like a mag that is not fully inserted. I find the 10rd and smaller mags much harder to get in than the 20rd mags.

As for your 3/3, I think it's luck of the draw. I've bought a lot of new guns over the last few years with zero problems with any. Just don't buy new models of Ruger when they're introduced. :)
 
Also make sure your gas cylinder nut is tight and that your spindle valve is open all the way.

Quoted for importance. The rifle will not cycle completely if the gas system is not functioning properly. If the op rod isn't getting quite enough pressure from the gas system, it will not go back all the way from firing, and thus will fail to push the bolt all the way back behind the rear of the cartridge waiting to be stripped from the mag. This is actually a way more likely problem than a faulty bolt assembly or magazine, given your description of the problem.
 
I'm interested to hear what ammo you're using as well. M1As have problems if you use ammo with higher than 175gr projectiles, and prefer 150gr ammo.

Does anyone have any experience shooting Hornady TAP 110gr. ammo out of a full length M1a barrel? I've got two boxes I found faily cheap but have never shot it. Really light bullet, but I was told it had enough bang to cycle.
 
You need to check the gas system. Dissemble it and make sure that the barrel gas hole lines up with the hole in gas system. If it does not, then you need to shim it.

Most of time when this happens, it is because the gas plug is not screwed it tightly enough.

Or if you are unlucky, the forward rail mount had slightly deformed your op rod, and you may need a new one installed.

I owned three M1As, and I always disassemble the gas systems first and inspect them, and then I would shim them properly and assemble them to get rid of the play. Never had a single problem with feeding with various ammo.

I only use the new CMI USGI mags (not even the factory SA mags).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top