Stainless Cerakote

[MrGiggles]

I have a Savage Bmag as a truck/tractor gun that takes a beating. The factory bluing/parkerizing has a few scratches and dings that are starting to rust.

A local shop has just gotten set up to do Cerakoting (not sure if it's really Cerakote, may be a similar type of product).

I'm thinking about having my gun coated in a nickel/stainless color because I love a stainless rifle, and the extra durability and corrosion resistance would be nice.

The thought of selling my gun and getting a factory Bmag in stainless crossed my mind, but I think it will end up costing quite a bit more. I doubt I could get much more than 200 dollars for my rifle, and a new one will cost around 400. That's double the cost of the coating.

Anybody else had this done? How does it look and hold up?

 

[drband]

I have VERY limited experience with coatings. My son has his LC9s slide coated because of rust issues. We have been totally pleased with durability-no holster wear (EDC) and looks great. Product used was GunKote color titanium.
The key is to get a gunsmith who understands the surface prep process needed and who is skilled in painting. Don't just trust someone with a rattle-can and an oven. Look for experience and some finished examples.

 

[LoonWulf]

Ive got a few factory coated rifles and pistols, and have done a few myself.
If your not super rough on the gun, and the work is done properly, I think youll be pleased with the coating.
Ive used Cerakote, and Ceramacoat now, and have had good success with both. I would check and see what the shops using and if you can get Cerakote use that.

Again tho surface prep is as important as the product used. so as suggested check out some of the shops work, and or ask detailed questions as to the preparation/application process.

 

[Gun Master]

I have a Savage Bmag as a truck/tractor gun that takes a beating. The factory bluing/parkerizing has a few scratches and dings that are starting to rust.

A local shop has just gotten set up to do Cerakoting (not sure if it's really Cerakote, may be a similar type of product).

I'm thinking about having my gun coated in a nickel/stainless color because I love a stainless rifle, and the extra durability and corrosion resistance would be nice.

The thought of selling my gun and getting a factory Bmag in stainless crossed my mind, but I think it will end up costing quite a bit more. I doubt I could get much more than 200 dollars for my rifle, and a new one will cost around 400. That's double the cost of the coating.

Anybody else had this done? How does it look and hold up?

Don't paint your gun. Just clean, lube, and take reasonable care of it.
The $'s don't add up, if I read this right.
Buy another gun for the cost of the coating.
Also, that paint has to go somewhere, when rubbed, brushed, or otherwise had metal contact metal, etc......
Have you ever thought about cold re-blueing ?
Your gun. Your choice.

 

[LoonWulf]

Don't paint your gun. Just clean, lube, and take reasonable care of it.
The $'s don't add up, if I read this right.
Buy another gun for the cost of the coating.
Also, that paint has to go somewhere, when rubbed, brushed, or otherwise had metal contact metal, etc......
Have you ever thought about cold re-blueing ?
Your gun. Your choice.

Properly done the coating is pretty thin, and will usually ware very little on moving parts, if properly cured, and lubricated. I have used cermamcoat (which isnt the best) on Pistol barrels and have only had one ware beyond some smoothing of the matte finish.

Cost for single color on barreled action should be 100-150(at most), and corrosion resistance is much higher than any bare metal.
Cold blue offers no corrosion resistance, but works well for touch-ups.

I have done whole guns with cold blue, and they look good. But I keep them wet in non-detergent oil, amd check for rust often.

 

[Varminterror]

If I recall, each coat of cerakote, done properly, is a half a thou. Every part I have mic'd after getting back has been 1-2thou thick.

When done well, cerakote is one of, if not the toughest finishes available. When done poorly, it flakes off like cheap krylon. I've yet to find a certified applicator which didn't do it properly.

The cerakote will chew on the inside of your holster, not let the holster chew on it. It's not impervious, so over time it will show wear, but that "over time" part will mean a LOT longer interval than any other finish option, and touching up is a lot easier.

$200 to cerakote a barreled action is pretty steep.

 

[Gun Master]

If I recall, each coat of cerakote, done properly, is a half a thou. Every part I have mic'd after getting back has been 1-2thou thick.

When done well, cerakote is one of, if not the toughest finishes available. When done poorly, it flakes off like cheap krylon. I've yet to find a certified applicator which didn't do it properly.

The cerakote will chew on the inside of your holster, not let the holster chew on it. It's not impervious, so over time it will show wear, but that "over time" part will mean a LOT longer interval than any other finish option, and touching up is a lot easier.

$200 to cerakote a barreled action is pretty steep.

I like my CZ-82, as is, however.

 

[Varminterror]

I like my CZ-82, as is, however.

I didn't realize the finish of your CZ-82 was a part of the OP's question.

 

[MrGiggles]

Don't paint your gun. Just clean, lube, and take reasonable care of it.
The $'s don't add up, if I read this right.
Buy another gun for the cost of the coating.
Also, that paint has to go somewhere, when rubbed, brushed, or otherwise had metal contact metal, etc......
Have you ever thought about cold re-blueing ?
Your gun. Your choice.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, a new stainless Bmag is in the neighborhood of 400 dollars, and my rifle is only worth around 200. That's 200 dollars out of pocket vs 100 dollars to have mine painted.

 

[Varminterror]

Not without weight is the fact your Bmag may not gain value if you cerakote it, and for some buyers - the wrong buyers - it may lose value. I'd venture you're into it for $350 ish already, and adding paint for $100, you're in it $450, and it remains to be worth $200. Net $250 lost in value. Alternatively, the stainless Bmag will hold value better, so getting it for $400, $200 out of pocket plus the $350 you're into the original Bmag, you're looking at $550 in, with a resale value around $300. The same net $250 net investment.

So in terms of opportunity cost, you're trading nickels here. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

 

[RainDodger]

Done properly, real Cerakote is pretty tough stuff. I've had many ARs and some handguns done by a certified Cerakote shop. Excellent. You get what you pay for.

 

[Gun Master]

I didn't realize the finish of your CZ-82 was a part of the OP's question.

My CZ-82 finish is a non-bluing (painting, coating, ceramic, etc.) finish.
My point is, although I prefer bluing, I am perfectly satisfied with the finish (non-blue) on the CZ-82.
Cost, time, labor, type of finish acceptable, et al, should all be evaluated.
It's his gun . It's his option (s) and/or decision (s).
Good gunning !