Hi everyone. I am absolutely new to reloading and want to start with .38/.357. I did some searches but was unable to find the information I need. Here's my question: what supplies do you recommend for reloading? I'm looking for a list that contains everything I'll need, and want to keep everthing in the "best bang for the buck" vein. Also, this is for dual use in my revolver and lever-action. Thanks in advance!
Starter Supplies for .38/.357
- Thread starter BJ Orange
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KansasSasquatch
Member
I prefer CCI primers. For .38 you can get by with CCI 500 but you should switch to CCI 550 for .357. Or you can just use CCI 550 primers for both but you will need to adjust your .38 charges a little lower than listed Max charges unless you are only going to use them in +P rated or .357 chambered guns.
For bullets I suggest either Berry's Plated bullets or Rainier Lead Safe bullets. Both are plated bullets with no exposed lead. They are more likely to be allowed at all ranges than bare lead bullets, are easier for a new reloader to work with than lead, and are generally priced cheaper than jacketed bullets. It is generally advised to load them using lead data but I personally load them to midrange jacketed data without an issues. But starting with lead data isn't a bad idea is a good idea when first starting out with plated bullets.
If you wish to load both .38 plinking ammo and full power .357 ammo you will probably be better off to buy 2 different powders to start with. Bullseye, Unique, and W231 are all good .38 powders and are all commonly available. I haven't personally loaded any .357 yet but I believe HS-6, 2400, and Blue Dot are supposed to be common powders for .357 but other folks may have better suggestions. You could get by with just Unique but it will limit your .357 loads to midrange velocities.
For brass, if you have any brass that you've saved it will probably be just as good as any new unloaded brass you can buy. But if you are going to buy new brass I highly suggest getting Starline brass. It's high quality brass made in the USA (Missouri), is priced well, and shipping is free if you order directly from Starline. Their direct prices actually seem to be better than retailer prices too. It's just a matter of whether they have what you need in stock.
For a press, a decent single stage is probably your best bet to start with. Lee makes presses starting at around $30 for a very basic press. But Hornady and RCBS make single stage presses that are generally considered higher quality but cost 3-4 times as much as the basic Lee. All three have great customer service if you happen to need it.
For dies, Lee tends to make the most affordable sets and their dies come with the necessary shell holder. But I prefer RCBS dies and shell holders are cheap. You can find .38/.357 die sets that have taper crimp dies but you will probably be better off to get a set with a roll crimp die.
You will probably also want to get some form of case trimmer to get a consistent crimp. Any brass you trim will need to be chamfered and de-burred. The Lyman 6 in 1 hand tool is a good value to start with. A case tumbler and tumbler media is also a good idea but some people use other methods to clean their brass, if they clean it at all.
And then there's loading manuals. Lee, Lyman, Hornady, Speer, etc, take your pick. But I suggest getting two or more. The data will vary from one to the other but it is generally all useful. I have the Lee 2nd edition and Lyman 48th edition. Both have good information that you should read before ever buying a single piece of reloading equipment. They will explain all the different processes/steps to reloading and give you good advice on what equipment is necessary.
For bullets I suggest either Berry's Plated bullets or Rainier Lead Safe bullets. Both are plated bullets with no exposed lead. They are more likely to be allowed at all ranges than bare lead bullets, are easier for a new reloader to work with than lead, and are generally priced cheaper than jacketed bullets. It is generally advised to load them using lead data but I personally load them to midrange jacketed data without an issues. But starting with lead data isn't a bad idea is a good idea when first starting out with plated bullets.
If you wish to load both .38 plinking ammo and full power .357 ammo you will probably be better off to buy 2 different powders to start with. Bullseye, Unique, and W231 are all good .38 powders and are all commonly available. I haven't personally loaded any .357 yet but I believe HS-6, 2400, and Blue Dot are supposed to be common powders for .357 but other folks may have better suggestions. You could get by with just Unique but it will limit your .357 loads to midrange velocities.
For brass, if you have any brass that you've saved it will probably be just as good as any new unloaded brass you can buy. But if you are going to buy new brass I highly suggest getting Starline brass. It's high quality brass made in the USA (Missouri), is priced well, and shipping is free if you order directly from Starline. Their direct prices actually seem to be better than retailer prices too. It's just a matter of whether they have what you need in stock.
For a press, a decent single stage is probably your best bet to start with. Lee makes presses starting at around $30 for a very basic press. But Hornady and RCBS make single stage presses that are generally considered higher quality but cost 3-4 times as much as the basic Lee. All three have great customer service if you happen to need it.
For dies, Lee tends to make the most affordable sets and their dies come with the necessary shell holder. But I prefer RCBS dies and shell holders are cheap. You can find .38/.357 die sets that have taper crimp dies but you will probably be better off to get a set with a roll crimp die.
You will probably also want to get some form of case trimmer to get a consistent crimp. Any brass you trim will need to be chamfered and de-burred. The Lyman 6 in 1 hand tool is a good value to start with. A case tumbler and tumbler media is also a good idea but some people use other methods to clean their brass, if they clean it at all.
And then there's loading manuals. Lee, Lyman, Hornady, Speer, etc, take your pick. But I suggest getting two or more. The data will vary from one to the other but it is generally all useful. I have the Lee 2nd edition and Lyman 48th edition. Both have good information that you should read before ever buying a single piece of reloading equipment. They will explain all the different processes/steps to reloading and give you good advice on what equipment is necessary.
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,475
You don't need magnum primers just because the round is called a magnum. Consult with a loading manual and see if the powder you plan to use actually calls for a magnum primer.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I like CCI primers. When I load for the .38 Special I like W231 (HP-38). When loading the .357 Magnum I like HS-6 and W296 (H110). when I use W296 which is a hard to ignite ball powder I use a Magnum primer.
With W231, HS-6 and W296 I can load any handgun caliber and those 3 powder are the ones I use the most.
As for bullets, 158gr Cast bullets are a cheap way to load a lot of ammo. Jacketed bullets are more expansive. Hornady XTP/HP bullets can be found for a good price when on sale. I also like Nosler bulk pack bullets. I can buy 250 158gr Nosler bullets for $31, that's a very good price IMO. ($31 from Cabela's, not the Nosler site)
When you get up and running you will find you can load between 200 and 250 rounds of 38/357 for the price of 50 rounds of factory ammo. In the end you really won't save any money but you will shoot a heck of a lot more for the same money spent.
With W231, HS-6 and W296 I can load any handgun caliber and those 3 powder are the ones I use the most.
As for bullets, 158gr Cast bullets are a cheap way to load a lot of ammo. Jacketed bullets are more expansive. Hornady XTP/HP bullets can be found for a good price when on sale. I also like Nosler bulk pack bullets. I can buy 250 158gr Nosler bullets for $31, that's a very good price IMO. ($31 from Cabela's, not the Nosler site)
When you get up and running you will find you can load between 200 and 250 rounds of 38/357 for the price of 50 rounds of factory ammo. In the end you really won't save any money but you will shoot a heck of a lot more for the same money spent.
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,475
If you don't mind a big cash layout upfront, you can get Montana Gold 125 gr JHPs for 90 bucks per 1k shipped if you buy a case.
FROGO207
Member
The way to start is buying small quantities of bullets/propellant/primers to experiment with, then after you have settled on your load/bullet combo the best way to save more still is buy in bulk. One order of primers and propellant from say, Powder Valley with the Haz-Mat spread out over several pounds and several K of primers will save you substantially. If you find lead bullets are OK then learning how to load these after getting the basics down will be a snap.
Lots of threads on what is needed for press and such here but individual consumable supplies will be mostly arrived at by trial and error following others recommendations from their results that work in their firearms. Note that your firearms WILL be different with respect to loads/results/pressures from everyone else's, close but slightly different most likely.
Lots of threads on what is needed for press and such here but individual consumable supplies will be mostly arrived at by trial and error following others recommendations from their results that work in their firearms. Note that your firearms WILL be different with respect to loads/results/pressures from everyone else's, close but slightly different most likely.
wanderinwalker
Member
For basic needs, something like a LEE turret press kit will get you started in the press department. Add a set of .38/357 dies and a Lyman 49handbook and add a set of calipers to measure your reloaded ammo.
As for primers, I'll say either CCI-500 or Winchester small pistol. Either one works well in my experience so I just pick up whatever I can get my hands on. For powder I like Winchester 231 for loading .38 Specials and Alliant 2400 for .357 Magnums. The Alliant 2400 has the advantage of not needing magnum primers, which simplifies the stocking situation.
For bullets I prefer cast lead for .38 Special loads and jacketed when pushing .357 Magnum speeds. There are a number of options for cast lead bullets in .38-caliber; I like the 158gr SWC for most uses.
Hopefully you've been saving your brass from shooting factory ammo. Revolver brass is so rare to find at the range from other shooters it makes me happy I don't lose any of it while shooting. Once you have a few hundred to start you'll be good to go for a while.
Lastly, READ the manual before you get started. If you have questions, ask, but read the step-by-step at least twice before working on the press. And make a few dummy rounds to go through the set-up and production process first, to get a feel for it.
(And for your first loads, use 231, a CCI-500 or Winchester small pistol primer, your .38 cases and some 158gr SWC. I'd be surprised if you can't get this to shoot well in your revolver.)
Edited: Forgot, don't worry about trimming handgun brass.
As for primers, I'll say either CCI-500 or Winchester small pistol. Either one works well in my experience so I just pick up whatever I can get my hands on. For powder I like Winchester 231 for loading .38 Specials and Alliant 2400 for .357 Magnums. The Alliant 2400 has the advantage of not needing magnum primers, which simplifies the stocking situation.
For bullets I prefer cast lead for .38 Special loads and jacketed when pushing .357 Magnum speeds. There are a number of options for cast lead bullets in .38-caliber; I like the 158gr SWC for most uses.
Hopefully you've been saving your brass from shooting factory ammo. Revolver brass is so rare to find at the range from other shooters it makes me happy I don't lose any of it while shooting. Once you have a few hundred to start you'll be good to go for a while.
Lastly, READ the manual before you get started. If you have questions, ask, but read the step-by-step at least twice before working on the press. And make a few dummy rounds to go through the set-up and production process first, to get a feel for it.
(And for your first loads, use 231, a CCI-500 or Winchester small pistol primer, your .38 cases and some 158gr SWC. I'd be surprised if you can't get this to shoot well in your revolver.)
Edited: Forgot, don't worry about trimming handgun brass.
Last edited:
Cabelas has those (Nosler) bullets for $44 per 250.
For inexpensive shooting, I enjoy shooting the Speer LSWC over Unique.
Midway has them $45 for 500
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/25...n-lead-semi-wadcutter-hollow-point-box-of-500
I've only shot these from revolver though, no rifle.
Good Luck
Midway has them $45 for 500
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/25...n-lead-semi-wadcutter-hollow-point-box-of-500
I've only shot these from revolver though, no rifle.
Good Luck
Save one of those factory 45ACP boxes that have a plastic insert. The ones in PMC and Wolf/Tulammo are the most durable. These work great for a 357 loading block.
For .357, you don't really need much beyond a press, a scale, and a 3 piece die set.
For this caliber, you do not need to trim. You don't need to chamfer primer pockets or case mouths. You do not need even calipers, really. Seat until they fit in your revolver's cylinder and/or to the crimp groove. You don't even need a tumbler, cuz your revolver brass will stay pretty darn clean, unless you load way too light.
Someone recommended plated bullets. Some things to watch out for with plated bullets:
1. No crimp groove. You cannot get a good roll crimp on these bullets. No heavy charges in a revolver.
2. A piece of plating can occasionally spit out the side of most revolvers. Make sure your shooting buddies are not close by, or they could get hit by a piece of plating that is big enough to draw blood or get in the eye.
3. Don't shoot 'em too fast in your rifle. 1200fps or so max.
I like plated bullets just fine in semiauto pistol fodder. But I do not use them in revolvers anymore. I prefer a hardcast bullet to plated in a revo, and they're cheaper. Now, plated do have benefits over hardcast. Less smoke, less lead exposure, and cleaner shooting. This could be worth it if you shoot indoors.
For .357, you don't really need much beyond a press, a scale, and a 3 piece die set.
For this caliber, you do not need to trim. You don't need to chamfer primer pockets or case mouths. You do not need even calipers, really. Seat until they fit in your revolver's cylinder and/or to the crimp groove. You don't even need a tumbler, cuz your revolver brass will stay pretty darn clean, unless you load way too light.
Someone recommended plated bullets. Some things to watch out for with plated bullets:
1. No crimp groove. You cannot get a good roll crimp on these bullets. No heavy charges in a revolver.
2. A piece of plating can occasionally spit out the side of most revolvers. Make sure your shooting buddies are not close by, or they could get hit by a piece of plating that is big enough to draw blood or get in the eye.
3. Don't shoot 'em too fast in your rifle. 1200fps or so max.
I like plated bullets just fine in semiauto pistol fodder. But I do not use them in revolvers anymore. I prefer a hardcast bullet to plated in a revo, and they're cheaper. Now, plated do have benefits over hardcast. Less smoke, less lead exposure, and cleaner shooting. This could be worth it if you shoot indoors.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I guess it's been a while since I bought them. Last time I paid much less than what you saw. I tend to buy a lot when I buy with long runs in between. Maybe they are $44 where you are, in PA they might be cheaper...
Lost Sheep
Member
10 Advices for the Novice Hanloader
Thanks for asking our advice and welcome to the forum. Reloading is a great hobby in and of itself and a terrifice adjunct to shooting.
Tell us something about yourself. It will help us compose answers that will be relevant to you.
What are your goals? (Long-range targets, varmints, hunting large game, personal defense, casual target shooting, etc.)
What kind of quantities do you contemplate? How many different calibers might you add in the future? Will you have a dedicated loading space or will you be putting your gear away after each loading session?
What's your budget?
There is lots of good advice out there, but not all of it will be good for your particular situation.
10 Advices for the Novice Hanloader
Anyone who can follow a recipe in the kitchen or change a tire can handload safely. It just takes care and a bit of humility. Handloading is not rocket science, but it does involve smoke and flame and things that go very fast, so care is to be taken.
I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal, so I put together this list.
So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".
So you can better evaluate my words, here is the focus of my experience. I load for handguns (44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 9mm, 357 Mag, 480 Ruger) a couple hundred per sitting and go through 100 to 400 centerfire rounds per month. I don't cast....yet.
When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted my press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table.
I still believe in a minimalist approach and and try to keep my inventory of tools low. I do not keep my loading gear set up when not in use, either, but pack them away in small toolboxes until the next loading session.
Now, here are my Ten Advices.
Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.
Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.
I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging. I am told the older editions are better than the newer ones, so the library is looking even better.
Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps found in their early chapters. The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well so give better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.
As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)
The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.
There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.
Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.
Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.
Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?
Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Aluminum generally takes more cleaning and lubrication to last forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevy owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon, blue, Lee red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer (and most major retailer) assembles a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is a decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing many of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the savings you thought the kit gave you), but you will have gotten started, at least.
On building your own kit: The thought processes you give to assembling your own kit increases your knowledge about reloading. You may get started a couple weeks later than if you started with a kit, but you will be far ahead in knowledge.
Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads? Pushing performance envelopes?
While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the mechanical steps of loading right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, bullet seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.
Learn on a single stage press or a turret press, or if on a progressive, only once cartridge at a time. While you can learn on a progressive press, in my opinion too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of (unless you load singly at first). Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.
Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.
On the Turret vs Single stage the decision is simpler. You can do everything on a Turret EXACTLY the same way as you do on a single stage (just leave the turret stationary). That is, a Turret IS a single stage if you don't rotate the head.
Learning on a progressive can be done successfully, but it is easier to learn to walk in shoes than on roller skates.
Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of almost every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.
Advice #4 Find a mentor.
There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers; 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")
I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.
After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.
Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness
When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on the coffeetable and the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe their setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.
You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium. A dropcloth is practically infallible. Use cloth, not plastic. Less static, quieter and has less tendency to let dropped primers roll away.
Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology
Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.
Read previous threads on reloading, too.
Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)
When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying. "The delicious flavor of low price fades fast. The wretched aftertaste of poor quality lingers long.
Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies
T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.
Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.
Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children (present of future - lead is a hazard, too. Wash after loading and don't eat at your bench). Enough said?
Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because they are next to each other on the keypad.
Good luck.
Lost Sheep
Thanks for asking our advice and welcome to the forum. Reloading is a great hobby in and of itself and a terrifice adjunct to shooting.
Tell us something about yourself. It will help us compose answers that will be relevant to you.
What are your goals? (Long-range targets, varmints, hunting large game, personal defense, casual target shooting, etc.)
What kind of quantities do you contemplate? How many different calibers might you add in the future? Will you have a dedicated loading space or will you be putting your gear away after each loading session?
What's your budget?
There is lots of good advice out there, but not all of it will be good for your particular situation.
10 Advices for the Novice Hanloader
Anyone who can follow a recipe in the kitchen or change a tire can handload safely. It just takes care and a bit of humility. Handloading is not rocket science, but it does involve smoke and flame and things that go very fast, so care is to be taken.
I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal, so I put together this list.
So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".
So you can better evaluate my words, here is the focus of my experience. I load for handguns (44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 9mm, 357 Mag, 480 Ruger) a couple hundred per sitting and go through 100 to 400 centerfire rounds per month. I don't cast....yet.
When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted my press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table.
I still believe in a minimalist approach and and try to keep my inventory of tools low. I do not keep my loading gear set up when not in use, either, but pack them away in small toolboxes until the next loading session.
Now, here are my Ten Advices.
Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.
Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.
I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging. I am told the older editions are better than the newer ones, so the library is looking even better.
Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps found in their early chapters. The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well so give better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.
As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)
The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.
There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.
Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.
Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.
Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?
Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Aluminum generally takes more cleaning and lubrication to last forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevy owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon, blue, Lee red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer (and most major retailer) assembles a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is a decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing many of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the savings you thought the kit gave you), but you will have gotten started, at least.
On building your own kit: The thought processes you give to assembling your own kit increases your knowledge about reloading. You may get started a couple weeks later than if you started with a kit, but you will be far ahead in knowledge.
Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads? Pushing performance envelopes?
While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the mechanical steps of loading right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, bullet seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.
Learn on a single stage press or a turret press, or if on a progressive, only once cartridge at a time. While you can learn on a progressive press, in my opinion too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of (unless you load singly at first). Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.
Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.
On the Turret vs Single stage the decision is simpler. You can do everything on a Turret EXACTLY the same way as you do on a single stage (just leave the turret stationary). That is, a Turret IS a single stage if you don't rotate the head.
Learning on a progressive can be done successfully, but it is easier to learn to walk in shoes than on roller skates.
Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of almost every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.
Advice #4 Find a mentor.
There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers; 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")
I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.
After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.
Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness
When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on the coffeetable and the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe their setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.
You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium. A dropcloth is practically infallible. Use cloth, not plastic. Less static, quieter and has less tendency to let dropped primers roll away.
Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology
Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.
Read previous threads on reloading, too.
Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)
When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying. "The delicious flavor of low price fades fast. The wretched aftertaste of poor quality lingers long.
Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies
T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.
Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.
Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children (present of future - lead is a hazard, too. Wash after loading and don't eat at your bench). Enough said?
Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because they are next to each other on the keypad.
Good luck.
Lost Sheep
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