Starting reloading for .30-30?

[andym79]

Hi guys I have just bought a .30-30 model 94.

The idea is to reload with 165gr Round Nose Flat Point HRBC projectiles. And create a light load for plinking and target shooting up to 100 yards.

So for the load I am thinking 165gr projectile, 20gr of AR2206H and a Winchester large rifle primer! Does that sound like a reasonable load for 1500 fps?

Secondly, I have never reloaded before, and would need to buy a lot of equipment! Does this list cover it?
Reloading Press
Shell Holder
Priming Arm
Reloading Die Set
Scale
Powder Measure
Powder Funnel
Case Lubricant with Pad
Case Trimmer
Deburring Tool
Vernier Caliper
Primer Tray
Automatic Primer Feed
Neck Reamer
Powder Dribbler
Bullet Puller

Which companies equipment would you recommend, Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Dillion or Hornady?

Thirdly, other than buying some reloading manuals and asking questions at the range does anyone know if such a think as a reloading course exists in Adelaide? I guess I could ask someone from the range to show me, but I don't want to learn bad habits, perhaps this could be partly addressed, buy asking say three!

 

[redneck2]

Read the stickies at the top of this forum. Tells you what you need.

 

[medalguy]

I'd recommend buying The ABC's of Reloading before you do anything. There's another thread today about the various editions of this book. It will tell you what tools you need and how to use them. Read everything there before you start spending money so you don't end up with things you don't need.

And ask questions if you have any after reading the book. Also check the stickies at the top of this forum about getting started in reloading.

 

[James2]

The good ol 94. A bit of nostalgia going on here. That was the rifle I bagged my first deer with. That was also the first caliber I reloaded for many years ago. Yep, read the sticky and get a good manual and do some reading first. The Hornady and Lyman manuals both go into the principles and procedure of reloading plus tools needed. I haven't seen the other books mentioned. I always used 150 gr bullets in my 30-30 loads. 170 gr was available in factory loads, and probably in bullets for reloading, but I never shot any heavier than 150 gr. They did the job. Merry Christmas.

 

[James2]

I guess the reason I like the Hornady manual is because I have used a lot of their bullets over the years. They say WIN 748 powder gave best results in their testing. It is nice to have data from the bullet maker.

My go to powder is IMR 3031. I won't give you the load, but expect you to get a load from a manual. Typos are too easy. Best of luck!

 

[Bmac1949]

+1 on the ABC's of reloading. I'd also recommend Modern Reloading by Richard Lee. If you read before you buy eqipment you'll be the best judge of what you need. Your list looks pretty complete. Some dies come with shell holders and you'll only need the two die set for .30-30. The .30-30 is a great place to start reloading. Good luck, have fun and be safe.

 

[Mike 27]

Get the book first, many good ones. I load for my model 94, I use TAC and Hornady FTX 160 grains. My only problem with them is the old 94 doesn't cycle them as well as RN. I do like the TAC for the 30-30. I ran across this load in a guns and ammo a few years back. It is basically a Leverevolution round

 

[popper]

Won't need a neck reamer, but will need a chamfering tool. VLD works. single stage press and hand primer.

 

[john wall]

After you get the correct tools, you are in for a treat!
Bad news is, the 30/30 case is thin, and you must use the right equipment.

Get a full length die set, also a Lyman "M" die, a Lee Factory Crimp die, and for longest case life, a Redding Competition Shell holder set. Also, since this case has a lot of taper for smooth feeding, and the guns lock up at the rear of the bolt, cases stretch. Get a good case trimmer. For low volume, Lee makes a good trimmer. For high volume, Wilson probably makes the best, if pricey, trimmer.

Since the 30/30 headspaces on the rim, chambers and shoulder length vary. The Redding shell holders allow up to .010" less shoulder set back.

The Lyman "M" die prepares the case mouth to have a slightly larger-than-bullet-diameter step at the case mouth for easiest loading of cast bullets without shaving lead, and seating jacketed bullets without collapsing the thin neck.

The Factory Crimp Die allows a firm crimp to keep the bullet from deep seating in the case as it is loaded into the mag. It also prevents collapsing the thin case.

Sounds like a lot of drama, but these tools will allow one to load this wonderful round to its best accuracy potential.

I have had the best results with the 150 gr Rem Core-Lokt bullet. Many guns shoot the 170 gr poorly, due to moderate velocity and a slow twist. Pointy boat tail bullets are putting socks on a rooster for this round, and a lot of 94's and 336's will not feed a pointy bullet smoothly.

The 30/30 is a short range venison harvesting machine, period. Although it has harvested very large game, that is not what it is made for.

Primers do not seem to be a factor. I use Winchester or CCI standard primers. Alliant RL-15 works well. I won't publish my load, but the book max of 36 gr often causes difficult extraction and short case life. Trail Boss is very consistent with cast bullets. Check hulls often for case length.

Do not try for amped up velocity. The guns and the hulls are not made for it.

In the field, bullet placement is KING. The Core-Lokt bullet will do its part if you put it where it needs to go.

Using the equipment mentioned, my old Ragamuffin 1894 will put three in a quarter at 50 yards with peep sights. Peep sights are a worthwhile addition to a 30/30.

If you put a receiver sight on your 1894 or 336, a .343" front sight will be needed.

 

[336A]

I'll second what john said about case length, make sure that you trim your brass to the proper min length after each use. Also don't try to hot rod the round due to the brass desighn and its' inherent strength as already stated above. The on caveat to that of course is the new LeverEvolution powder marketed by Hodgdon. I've never used the powder so I can't comment on it. Any good die set such as RCBS is all you will need, the Lyman factory crimp die is nice though. I had great success with my RCBS dies with this cartridge and don't see the need for a competion anything.

I do disagree with john on the use of pointed bullets though. Hornady sells the 160gr FTX bullet as a component for the 30-30, and in factory loaded form I've never ever had any feeding issues. The factory ammo definetly turns the 30-30 into a honest mid range deer cartridge as long as your rifle shoots it well. The first time I used it (160gr factory Hornady LE ammo) on a white tail I was astounded by it's performance, it is that good. I haven't used it since most of my shots are inside 150yd, standard ammo and bullets do all I need and they're cheaper.

 

[andym79]

Which is better for .30-30 a Lyman "M" die or a LEE universal expander die for opening the neck for loading cast projectiles!

 

[mmay1]

+1 on both the ABCs book and a hand priming tool. Multiple shell holders will come in handy, too.

 

[Paul24]

For lead and jacketed bullets the M-Die is the answer. John Wall nailed it. I perfer the Lyman sizing die, the neck portion is larger diameter than any other die I have measured, this means less working of the brass. When using the M-die I use no expander ball in the sizing die, again less stress on the brass.

 

[res7s]

For cast I replace the stock 30 cal pin with a 303 expander/depriming pin. I bell the case mouth with the Lee expander die. The larger expander makes for a better fit with my .312" diameter cast bullets. I use the fat cast bullets in my '70 model 336. It has a large throat.

 

[Bigdog57]

I use Lee presses and handgun dies, but have switched to RCBS for nearly all my rifle loading. I had serious troubles with Lee .30-30 dies - could not get the bullet to seat snugly. One should not use a crimp die to fix this problem, and the RCBS dies work better for ME.
I like the Lee primer hand tool. Gives me a beter 'feel' for seating the primer, and works fine with ALL brands of primers (despite what Lee himself says).
I got by a long time without calipers, but now wouldn't set up a load without it. There are inexpensive ones at Harbor Freight that work well.
I bought a trickler, but honestly have never used it - I 'trickle' using a Lee powder dipper, after dumping a slightly light load.
Use the money saved from the trickler to buy a box of bullets.
The load manuals are great, and there is a lot of data online fromthe various bullet and powder manufacturers. I always cross-check at least three sources for a new load, to be safe. Bad data does occasionally get published. This allows me to see an obvious 'odd' load before using it.

 

[denton]

Don't neglect gas checked cast lead bullets in the 30-30. For plinking, they are cheap and more than adequate. I would not be hesitant to use them for deer, but if given the choice would use a modern jacketed bullets in that application. Non gas checked bullets make pleasant plinking rounds up to about 1400 FPS.

In my bolt action 30-30, 29.5 grains of Varget gives me 1920 FPS with 175 grain cast flat points. A 30-30 has about all the case capacity you can use with 30 cal cast bullets.

You can use either flat points or the new Leverevolution "rubber" points. Using normal pointed bullets in a tube fed magazine can lead to interesting results, such as a magazine tube that doesn't work anymore because it tried to be a rifle barrel and failed.

John is right about the M die. I have both that and the Lee equivalent, and the M is what I use all the time. I only use it with cast bullets.

It's hard to beat a 30-30 for basic enjoyment at the range. The 94 is an enduring design because it filled its market niche so well: Not too expensive, respectable rate of fire, enough range to put meat in the pot, excellent for discouraging predators around livestock, good handling for self-defense, and mild recoil. Hard to beat.

 

[06]

30/30s are my son's favorite deer slayer round. On your reloading equipment--forgo the primer loader tube and get a hand loader. Just as fast and you get to inspect your brass more closely. I used tubes to begin but it has been years since I mounted one on a press. Also there is a slight chance of detonation using them. Welcome to the hobby and may you have many years of enjoyment doing so.

 

[andym79]

Just wondering, has anyone used Titan Reloading based in WI? Their prices seem quite good! Here is a basket I filled this morning, I have not bought anything just price comparing!

1 x LEE 4 HOLE TURRET PRESS W/QUICK DISABLE AUTO INDEX 90932 $72
1 x LEE EXTRA 4 HOLE TURRET 90269 $10
1 x LEE UNIVERSAL EXPANDING DIE 90798 $12
1 x LEE .30/30 WIN DELUXE RIFLE 3 DIE SET 90631 $32
1 x LEE #R3 UNIVERSAL SHELL HOLDER 90520 $4
1 x LEE .30/30 WIN FACTORY CRIMP DIE 90822 $12
1 x LEE IMPROVED POWDER MEASURE KIT 90100 $10
1 x LEE POWDER FUNNEL 90190 $3.50
1 x LEE SAFETY POWDER SCALE 90681 $24
1 x LEE AUTO PRIME XR 90230 $19
1 x LEE #3 AUTO PRIME SHELL HOLDER 90203 $3
1 x 30/30 WIN LEE CASE LENGTH GAUGE/SHELL HOLDER 90136 $4.50
1 x LEE CASE TRIMMER CUTTER & LOCK STUD 90110 $5.50
1 x LEE CHAMFER AND DEBURRING TOOL 90109 $3
1 x ULTIMATE KINETIC BULLET PULLER QBP1 $26
1 x LEE PRIMER POCKET CLEANER 90101 $2

Total $242 plus postage (good?)

If I added a RCBS charge master (a lot of cash but it seem worth it) to the above, then I should be pretty much set, right?

It would be a lot easier to compare prices and give you an answer if you would list individual prices for each item.

it sure would, have amended the post.

 

[rcmodel]

It would be a lot easier to compare prices and give you an answer if you would list individual prices for each item.

There is no way to say if that is good or bad without pricing out the whole list from Midway, Midsouth, Cabalas after Xmas employee price sale, etc.

rc

 

[andym79]

Midway, Midsouth, Cabalas

I know Midway don't post internationally, and I can not use a freight forwarder because they only take US Billing addresses!

Midsouth do, but All international orders must be faxed to them with signature!

Cabelas do, but International Standard Air delivery is 45% of the total order amount!

 

[rcmodel]

Ahhh!

I didn't even notice you were down under!!

Nevermind!

rc

 

[denton]

The Lee die set comes with a shell holder.

There are a lot of Lee things I like, but their scale is not one of them. I have a Hornady balance, and like it fine.

Skip the $10 powder measure kit. You probably won't end up using it. Put another $10 with it and get the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, which you will use. You might want to try that for a while before getting the Charge Master. It is as repeatable as a good balance, which is more repeatable than digital scales that measure to .1 grain. Yeah, I've run the tests, and the humble Lee powder measure beats most everything else. Surprised me considerably.

You'll need a set of digital calipers. Here in the States, I get mine from Harbor Freight for around $20. They aren't Starrett or Mitutoyo, but they are completely adequate for reloading.

Practically all my dies are Lee. But be aware that they do have a tendency to sometimes leave burrs inside the dies. I've had that happen probably 4-5 times out of the 50 or so dies I have. 30 seconds with a Dremel buffing wheel fixes it just fine. I consider that to be fair exchange for the low price.