Starting to reload .40, any advice?

[Waywatcher]

So, I decided to put my last chunk of change I had sitting around burning a hole in my pocket into reloading for my .40 Glock. This is (was!) the only cartridge I owned a gun for but didn't reload for. This also happens to be the first automatic pistol I am loading for.

I ordered RCBS carbide dies, shellholders, and the Redding G-RX carbide system for bulge-elimination if necessary. My Glock is a recent mfg. Gen 3 and it seems to have good case support, but I'd rather have the tool on hand in any case.

The powders I have on hand to try are: Unique, Power Pistol, HS-6, and Accurate #5.

I'm looking into bullets, and I think I would like to try 165 grain at 980fps (40 lite) for reduced recoil practice loads. I do own a chrono so that part should be easy.

Any recommendations for bullets and where to order them? Also, Any general advice for me?

 

[LiveLife]

I'm looking into bullets, and I think I would like to try 165 grain at 980fps (40 lite) for reduced recoil practice loads. I do own a chrono so that part should be easy. Any recommendations for bullets and where to order them?

For jacketed bullets for practice loads, RMR has pulled 165 gr RNFP for $97/1000 with free shipping - http://www.shop.rmrbullets.com/prod...6F858.qscstrfrnt01?productId=14&categoryId=15

Also, Any general advice for me?

If you are using mixed range brass with unknown reload history, I would caution on the use of "push-through" resizing die to fix over-stretched case bases from hot loads/less supported chambers. When I come across a case that won't fully resize, I'll rotate the case 90 degrees and attempt to resize a second time. If the case won't fully resize on the second attempt and won't drop in freely into the tight Lone Wolf chambers, I will toss/recycle the case. I could "push-through" resize using my FCD but IMO such cases have stretched too much and case wall thinned too much to be re-loadable "for me".

My Glock 22/27 are Gen3 and will bulge the case depending on powder/charge. Conduct your powder workup and if your cases bulge to the point where you can't fully resize in your regular resizing die, reduce your powder charge. If powder reduction results in too much decrease in accuracy, consider using faster burning powders that will maintain accuracy even at start-to-mid range load data. I shoot 40S&W with 140/155/165/170/180 gr jacketed/plated/lead bullets and mid-to-high range load data W231/HP-38 loads do not overly bulge the cases in factory Glock barrels.

 

[Waywatcher]

I have been saving my own brass from factory new ammo. I have about 400 pieces of Remington brass, and about 300 pieces of Winchester brass; all of it once fired in the same Glock. I don't intend to use mixed range brass.

One thing I may or may not try, is using once-fired brass from my local police/club range. The police practice there (with Glock .40s) and I pick up their brass when I see it; but I haven't accumulated that much. I will use my other brass first, for sure.

 

[LiveLife]

That's great. I think the key is not using over-stretched/thinned cases for higher pressure 40S&W and using max/over max load data.

I reserve verified once-fired cases for full-power loads using slower burning powders.

For mixed range brass, I use lower mid-to-high range load data.

 

[GLOOB]

If your gun is bulging the brass, then you need to change your load. The push through die will come in handy in case you come across a big lot of obvious once-fired, bulged brass. It's not uncommon, depending on where you buy, considering the amount of police departments that use the caliber. A consistent bulge is actually a pretty good identifier that brass IS of the same batch, fired from the same gun, in conjunction with the headstamp, the overall case condition, and the firing pin marks. If they look new and you can rule out multiple extractor marks and sizing rings, you can sort them out for debulging right quick, if they're not bulged too bad.

 

[edfardos]

try slower burning powders which will have lower peak pressures which will be easier on the brass no matter what chamber its fired in. It costs a bit more but it's generally safer.

edfardos

 

[gamestalker]

I agree that slower burning powders are the ticket here. I've been loading for multiple .40's with Longshot and HS6 for years and wouldn't use anything else. They aren't finicky powders either, in that, if you were .1 gr. +/- you wouldn't notice it.

I have developed a couple of loads with those powders that are going over 1400 fps with a 155 gr. JHP.

 

[Branden967]

tag for later

 

[Stormin.40]

HS-6 for me, I load 165gr plated bullets (Rainer or Berry's) at 7.6gr HS-6 and get about 1020fps, 7.5gr was just under 1000fps, this is out of a 4" Beretta PX4 storm. I use a Lee FCD as a push through buldge buster with range brass.