Stevens 200

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oldhammy1

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I am looking to go from 30-06 to 300 win mag. Money is tight, so I was looking at getting a stevens model 200, and then upgrading the trigger. I have an old savage 110 in .270 and love it. I understand it is essentially the same as the stevens 200. I could really use some advice here. I am commonly shooting out well past 400 yards, and need a good shooter. If anyone has any articles or hard data I would also appreciate it.
 
I don't have any "hard data" for you but you are correct. The Stevens Model 200 is nothing but a Savage Model 10/110 without the accu-trigger. Other than the trigger, they are the same gun.
 
Having two 200s, one in 223 and the other in 308 (Pachmayr recoil pad, one for 110 SYN will fit) and while I like the gun I don't think I would find one in 300 mag 'friendly'.

RJ
 
Just get one and replace the stock later. I put a 6lb Choate stock on my model 200 in .308 and recoil is not bad at all. I think theres even a compartment in the grip for lead to add weight.
 
I have a Stevens in 223....will shoot very well and I reccomend the new timney trigger's....the best and only really necessary one to that rifle
 
I would actually rather the stevens, becuase doing the trigger job on them is easier than on a accutrigger model, and it takes about 10 minutes. I am a total idiot when it comes to gunsmithing, and I just did one on it, and a very similar setup on a cz trainer, and it was a snap.
 
I'm always nervous about doing anything with a trigger, since I am not at all gunsmith savy, and I can't stand the thought of a misfire in the field. Do you have adjustment instructions that I can look up? It sure would be nice not to have to put in an aftermarket trigger. Any one else out there have one of these in 300 win mag? I am on the verge of buying one, and am waiting for someone to talk me out of it. So far, all I hear is good.
 
Buy the time youbuy a trigge, pay to have it installed, then a stock, there is a good chance you can buy a better rifle in the first place. Ever think about uesd?
 
The timney goes on in 10 minutes and I have zero technical know how...easy as pie and they are on sale all the time...
 
(I'm curious why you want to go from a 30-06 to a 300 Win Mag?

Looking at the ballistic charts, the most meaningful difference between the two cartridges is going to be the price of ammo.)


I shot a whitetail at 550 yards. Bullet drop about 5 feet. Out to this distance, yes there is not much difference between the two. But out to 800 yards, there is several feet difference. My friend shot one at 800 yards with a 300 win mag, and was comfortable at that distance. I have watched the trail of a bullet through binos out at those distances, and yes, there is a HUGE difference in bullet drop out past 500 yards. Recoil doesn't bother me, so I figure why not give myself the most stopping power, even at long range, while maintaining accuracy.
 
I shot a whitetail at 550 yards. Bullet drop about 5 feet. Out to this distance, yes there is not much difference between the two. But out to 800 yards, there is several feet difference. My friend shot one at 800 yards with a 300 win mag, and was comfortable at that distance. I have watched the trail of a bullet through binos out at those distances, and yes, there is a HUGE difference in bullet drop out past 500 yards. Recoil doesn't bother me, so I figure why not give myself the most stopping power, even at long range, while maintaining accuracy.

Did you look at the ballistic chart I linked? At 500 yards there is a difference of 8.2 inches in drop between the two rounds. There is only 235 fps difference in muzzle velocities between the two rounds, and at 500 yards that difference has shrunk to a difference of 191 fps.

Is the extra cost of the magnum worth 9% more velocity and less than a foot less drop? You could see bigger differences with 3 inches more or less barrel length.
 
OK. Lets just pretend I don't want to be talked out of a 300 win mag. Any other advice?
 
stevens 200 is a really good rifle. might be a bit on the light side for 300 win mag, but hey if ur up to it. i own a couple and i really like the way they shoot for what they cost.

having said that, at 800 yds the drop isnt what makes this kind of hunting frowned upon, its the wind. without busting out a balistic calculator, im guessing that ur 180gr hunting bullet in 5-6mph (typical winter weather) is going to drift at least 2.5 ft....maybe even a whole yard.

sure, the 300win still can kill a deer at this distance, but u would almost certainly have to be shooting at a known distance w/ known windspeed along with the ability to play the wind on a cold bore shot from a field position.... if u are comfortable taking this kind of shot, go for it and the best of luck this next hunting season...but that is well beyond the type of hunting i do.
 
Thanks.

Thanks everyone. I think what I was looking for was verified. I find very few posts or opinions anywhere that talk poorly of this gun. Yes, I do reload, and I might shoot 75 to 100 rounds a year (maybe a little more at first to familiarize myself with the rifle). It will be strictly a hunting rifle, so just sighting in and a little practice is all the shooting I will be doing, aside from the hunt. I just have wild hair up my tail to try this experiment, and I figure if it isn't what I want or like, I can sell it and lose maybe lose $100 on the deal. Thanks again, and if anyone out there has some good instructions on adjustment of the factory (non-accu) trigger, I would appreciate it.
 
I've seen instructions on how to adjust the old Model 110 3 screw trigger, but the Stevens is a 2 screw trigger, that most people say can't be adjusted. Depends on how skilled you are, I guess. I just put a Timney in. Go to Savageshooters.com for your Savage questions.
 
Is the timney an actual drop in, or does it need some slight mods? Basix claims their triger is the only actual drop in trigger for savage/stevens. Anyone know?
 
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