storing guns in a damp cloth

[ZCORR Jay]

Dr_2_B
we have the ZCORR bags which use VpCI to inhibit rust.
They come in 3 different sizes for now which are

Pistol 11"x15"
Rifle / Shot Gun 11"x54"
Tactical 14"x49"

You can simply slide a clean gun in and pull it out ready to use. You don't have to drown in it oil or anything like that.

We also offer forum members a 10% discount.

Here are some links to product reviews people have done for us.
http://gunsafehaven.com/rust-prevention-gun-safe-accessories/comment-page-1/#comment-2827

http://www.vimeo.com/14493048

http://www.shootingwire.com/archived/2010-08-16_sw.html

 

[Captcurt]

Don't ruin your wood!

I am a firm believer in a light coating of oil on the metal but to put oil soaked rags on wood is an absolute no-no. If the wood isn't completely sealed you land up with oil penetrating into the wood, discoloring and weakening the wood. I've seen more than one nice shotgun disfigured this way.

Apuuli,
It doesn't have to be linseed oil. Any petrolium soaked rags are subject to spontanious combustion.

 

[SwampWolf]

A 40/60 watt light bulb, preferably located towards the bottom of the safe, will aid in reducing humidity and dampness. When stationed in the tropics while in the military, a lightbulb turned on at the bottom of the locker was sop.

 

[Apuuli]

Captcurt;
I didn't say it HAD to be linseed oil, but it does have to be an oil that oxydizes readily to produce enough heat to combust (a drying or curing oil) and linseed oil with the metalic curers added is one of the worse. Non-saturated oils (like vegetable oils) oxydize more readily than saturated petroleum oils (and are thus more of a danger), which is why spilled linseed oil forms a gunk after couple of days but mineral oil remains slick. Obviously, the temperature is important (say in a car in the sun or a dryer) and having a bunch of oily rags piled up somewhere is a fire hazard even if they don't spontaneously compust.

 

[bri]

eezox + proper humidity levels where ever the firearms are stored.

 

[Deanimator]

Safe, Shooter's Choice red grease.

 

[trickshot]

The gun does not absorb, the rag does, regardless how much oil it has on it.

That sounds logical; but it appears to me that if the rag has more oil on it than the metal does, the oil is transferred to the metal.
How else can you explain that it works so well to apply a few drops of oil to a rag and then wipe that oil onto the gun metal?

 

[LcplJones]

Not sure on this one....I have an easier solution. Shoot your file more often, thus you clean it more often and...no rust! Downside for me...I waste way to much money on ammo.

 

[bsg]

i use a Goldenrod. the best deal i found on one was at Midway when they had a sale.

the Goldenrod has an electrical cord attached to it and plugs into the wall; your safe must have an opening to accommodate the cord. the wall plug is removed for easy access of cord to be strung through the opening from inside the safe; the wall plug then is reattached to the cord from outside the safe, and plugged into the wall.

 

[3:00hold]

The gun does not absorb, the rag does, regardless how much oil it has on it. If this is the only gun with rust that you own, AND the only one you keep in an oiled rag, I am suspecting some cause & effect.

I have stored pistols 30 years in the open air--zero rust--Ruger's included.

The gun had rust before the rag, and again before the rag with extra heavy oiling, but not since the rag. I think it's the case hardening. It's the only gun I have with it, and the only gun with rust.

 

[ThePunisher'sArmory]

Or what else do you do to keep them rust-free?

Take them out and shoot them.......very often. Then clean them, oil them, and put them back in the safe. Repeat once a moth for best results.

 

[jhco50]

I keep telling people how to protect their firearms cheaply and well and it seems I'm talking to a wall. So here goes, one more time.

I came up with this idea years ago while living in SE Texas and fighting rust constantly. I have since seen this in one of the firearms magazines. Maybe I should have copyrighted it...

This may be used for storing your firearms, knives, or straightrazors (I also belong to a straight shaving group) long term. I will explain how to use it on a firearm, but the same basic method is used for anything you wish to protect.

Clean you firearm thoroughly and when done, dry it off completely. Now instead of oiling, polish the complete gun, inside and out (including the stock and inside the barrel) with Nu-Finish or any other wax of that type. Make sure to cover everything and wipe it off with a clean rag. This will keep moisture away from the metal and wood indefinitely while stored. It also works well for pickups.

 

[Texsun]

jhco50- Respectully, I doubt you'll find many here who would put car wax on a firearm just won't sell....

 

[cartod]

Seems JHCO50 Might not be to far off.


"This guy has a Winchester 21 collection that would rival a king."
http://www.winchestermodel21.com/page1.html

C&P


Bill Phifer on Preservation


"As I mentioned, I have never put oil on the exterior of my Winchester Model 21 shotgun collection.

I apply clear color paste Trewax (a brand name). Trewax has Carnauba oil in it.

There are more specific details, but basically I apply wax to the exterior of my shotguns – barrels and wood. Then after about 5 minutes I wipe the wax off with a soft flannel cloth (keep the cloth in a jar for the next time you need it). If I am going into the field I leave the wax on the exterior.

Many shotguns are ruined by oil applied to the exterior seeping into the area where the wood meets the metal and rotting the wood out. You do not have this problem when using Trewax which has Carnauba oil in it.

The wax will protect your shotguns from stray fingerprints etching a pattern into the metal and weather. Some wax will remain in the checkering – just leave it there or remove it with a very soft toothbrush after it dries.

I apply a light film of clear gun oil to the interior of my unfired barrels. I apply minimal oil on the interior mechanisms(firing pin, safety button, ejectors) using a needle oiler.

The inside of fired shotgun barrels require a different treatment. When you shoot a shotgun you fire a plastic wad through the choke constriction at extreme heat. The extreme heat generated by your shot will slightly melt the plastic wad and it will leave a film of plastic at the choke constriction.

The plastic film is all but impossible to remove using normal cleaning techniques. Thus, humidity can build up in this area and rust-out your barrels! If you are buying a used shotgun check for rust at the choke constriction.

Always use a gun case with a plastic zipper. A metal zipper will act like a saw blade. When you can, leave the gun case slightly open so air can circulate – just open the zipper enough so air can get inside to keep humidity and heat from building up.

Never slam a double home after opening the barrels. When closing your double barrels push the release lever just like you do when opening the barrels. Don’t slam the barrels home. Open and close your barrels by pushing the release lever.

Use a lightweight nylon gun sox when taking your shotgun into the field. A dog can jump on your gun or you could brush it up against a tree. I nylon gun sox will really help protect your shotgun. When you reach the hunting grounds remove the gun sox and put it into your pocket.

I’ve describe how I have taken care of my shotguns for over 30 years. I’m not telling anyone else how to take care of their shotguns.

Best regards,

Bill Phifer"

 

[Robert Wilson]

I was under the impression that it was semi-common to wax a rifle before taking it out into nasty weather. When I am taking a fine rifle with great wood into the rain, I give it a thorough coating of wax.