Straight razors

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USAF_Vet

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I'm looking for a good manufacturer of straight razors. The only ones I'm finding are the one with disposable blades, or ones that are simply pocket knives designed to look like a straight razor. I'm not opposed to going vintage and honing with a strop (or attempting to) but I'd prefer new for my first. I've been fascinated with them for years, and anticipate another thing to collect.
 
Boker and Dovo are probably the most popular new brands. Both German. My daily user is a Boker Edlweiss. And then I have a bunch of restored vintage ones too.

Expect to spend 100 to 200 bucks. Get it from a dealer that hones them in house before shipping out. I've had good luck with WestCoastShaving. And you WILL need a decent strop, at minimum, to maintain it. No two ways about it.

Avoid used or vintage razors until you gain some experiance.
 
Not only would I like to collect them I'd like to use one. There is something really appealing about using a straight razor. I have never attempted it but have had several straight razor shaves. Maybe it's the novelty, danger, or the need for good hand eye coordination(with the reversed mirror image no less).
 
When I was in the service I had a Boker I bought downtown at what we might call a "Flea Market". I paid the equivalent of maybe $25 U.S. for it.
It was a handy razor and after some practice I found I preferred it to a disposable.
Unfortunately it was "confiscated" as the Military frowned on owning one at the time.
 
The Badgerandblade forum has more information than you could ever fully ubsorb. If you want to get shaving with a straight, I suggest you check them out. There are other sites out there too.

Also, watch some youtube videos on how shave with one. And how to maintain a razor. Watch as many as you can. Everybody settles on different techniques.

And prepare for a steep learning curve. You wont get baby bottom smoothe right off the bat. It might even take months. More than likely you will get a few cuts in the beginning too. Stick with it though and you can achieve very comfortable and smooth shaves. It is a satisfying experiance.
 
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Why do you suggest avoiding using vintage/used razors? Thanks

So you have a better idea of what you are looking at. Not just shaving experiance, but also after more knowledge on the subject is accumulated. And so you know what a good edge actually is. Which is why I suggest buying a professionally honed "shave ready" new blade from a reputable source. The factory edge usually isnt up to it's full potential.

Many vintage straights on Ebay are junk. Some are cheap knockoffs. Many are damaged, often beyond repair. It isnt always obvious damage either. Hairline cranks in the blade may even go unoticed by the seller if they dont know much about razors either. Scales and pins often need replacement. "Shave ready" from some dude on ebay could mean just about anything as well.

Some things can be fixed, some cant. And depending on how much work you put into it yourself, it can get costly.
 
For years I used a straight razor to shave. Was taught to during an apprenticeship.

Actually quicker for me than using a regular razor. Used the disposable ones however.


Anyways, I stopped when my kids started getting too curious about them.
 
A year ago, I decided to give straight razor shaving a try. I bought a vintage blase that had already had the bevel set and was honed and sharpened. I successfully shaved with it a couple of times, but dulled it when I tried stopping it.. That was it for me.. I went back to a vintage safety razor.
 
I went really old school once and shaved with an axe, just to say I did it. :)

I'd recommend a new straight razor to learn on. I pull mine out on occasion and use it, just to 'keep my hand in' so to speak. I do have two vintage ones SWMBO bought me at flea markets. They are for display. (Chips, pitting.)
 
I went really old school once and shaved with an axe, just to say I did it. :)

I'd recommend a new straight razor to learn on. I pull mine out on occasion and use it, just to 'keep my hand in' so to speak. I do have two vintage ones SWMBO bought me at flea markets. They are for display. (Chips, pitting.)

These days I avoid most shaving by keeping the beard year round. Used to grow it every fall, and shave down to a Van Dyk every spring.
 
My first shave with anything other than cartridge razor was with a Spyderco Delica4. I had just put a mirror polished edge on it and after a couple a brews later that night I got the wild idea to see how sharp it really was. Removing arm hair to prove it is "shaving sharp" is child's play. Coarse facial hair is another story.

Anyhow, it went pretty well. Not super close or very comfortable, but it the job. This experiance is what sparked my interest in straights. Now they're all I ever use.

I could probably do much etter with a pocket knife these days.
 
straight

I still shave with straight razors. I have even made a few.
There is a very definite learning curve. Traversing it often involves blood....a little if you are careful; a lot if you are not.
Note: despite the notation "shave ready", many of that type are not. They need further honing. Often a razor that looks and feels sharp enough to shave, isn't.
Be prepared to spend a fair amount of cash for a good sharpenable razor. If you intend to keep it useful.....you will need a good leather strop, a couple of fine water stones (grit 2000/4000) and a nice hard Arkansas finishing stone.
My own favorite is a Feather razor from Japan. disposable blades. Pricey but beautiful in the hand and scary sharp. A blade will last me a month.
Here's a couple that I made after a design by Lewis Razors:
5EAD709A-54D9-4798-AFF3-D1A6AE493C2D.jpg
very similar...the scales need more work. Very rough.
D5CE2A3B-AA1E-428B-92A0-8DA6E6E9CC50.jpg

Check this link:
http://www.westcoastshaving.com/
 
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mboe794 said:
And prepare for a steep learning curve. You wont get baby bottom smoothe right off the bat. It might even take months. More than likely you will get a few cuts in the beginning too. Stick with it though and you can achieve very comfortable and smooth shaves. It is a satisfying experiance.

+1.

I switched to a straight razor a few years ago. A good straight razor shave with good soap, brush and aftershave is one of my indulgences. And it's a closer shave than anything I've ever gotten with a conventional razor.

Seemed to me, though, that maintaining a straight razor and actually shaving with one are 2 different things, so I bought one with a disposable razor so I could learn to shave with it first. One of these days I'll get a real razor & gear.

As far as learning curve, I learned by shaving with a conventional razor first, then shaving with a straight razor, only "shaving" the parts that were easy. I'd increasing the coverage with the straight razor until I was able to do my whole face, then I'd skip the conventional razor pre-shave altogether.

Nice blades, Pete!
 
I disagree that a guy needs all sorts of stones to maintain a razor.

What I do is fifty laps on a bare leather strop before the shave. Followed by 10 laps on a canvas strop after the shave. The idea here is to make sure the exteme smallest part of the bevel is dry, thwarting any microscopic rust or pitting. This gets me by for a few months. The other side of my canvas is lightly pasted with CrOx. A dozen or so laps on that brings back comfortable shaves.

Eventually though, the paste will no longer restore a keen edge. For me, shaving every other day, this takes about a year. Then I send it out for a touchup honing. Costs about twenty bucks and a week later I have a nice new edge. During that time I use one of my other straights.

So minus the startup cost of a razor, brush and strop, totalling about $250, it costs me maybe 35 bucks a year to shave. This includes consumables like soap and after shave.

In the beginning though, you may need more frequent honing. Things like bad stropping habits, dropping your razor, or banging it on the faucet, may require refreshing the bevel. Also, never rub your finger on the edge or use it to cut anything but hair. If you need to determain edge quality, just shave with it. A good egde gives a smooth shave, assuming you know what you are doing. If it is pulling, particularly on with-the-grain strokes, possibly causing your eyes to water, the edge needs work.

Stropping is a must, but as a beginner I wouldnt go spending money on honing tools. Honing takes skill, practice and patience. And often times people dont stick with straight razor shaving for very long. If you decide you wanna learn to hone later on, buy the stones and then get yourself a cheap beater blade to practice on.
 
And one more thing...

For a guy just starting out, buy something like a 5/8, half hollow to full hollow, round point.

5/8 because it is kinda middle of the road. Hollow because they seem to be a little easier to maintain and offer good feedback verses wedge blades. And round point because they are more forgiving. Square points, or similar shapes, offer better accuracy with things like edging around goaties, but are more prone to catching earlobes and nostrils and whatnot.
 
I wear a full beard, so most of the shaving will be done around the neck :eek: and high on the cheeks, so I'm not worried so much about earlobes and nostrils. I just don't want to Sweeny Todd myself. I need to find a local barber shop that still does a straight shave, watch and learn after the experience.

I occasionally see vintage straight razors at the antique and second hand shops, and the look of them as collectors items is what got my juices flowing and wanting to collect them. I had a straight shave once in my life, in London.

Seems like I've got some research to do.

Thanks for the input so far.
 
I doubt most barbers do real straight razor shaves. The one's I've been to around here all use shavettes (the ones with replacable blades). They have told me it is for liability reasons concerning pathogens. I guess I understantand where they are coming from. It seems like everybody is out to sue one another these days.

Shavettes are similar to straights, but certainly not identicle. Technique is about the same, but the edge geometry is different. Brand to brand of blade makes a big difference. Some can be downright harsh on the skin. Also, weight ballance is different than a straight. However, being on the recieving end at a barber shop, you probably wont be able to pick up on much of that. In your own hands though, you can feel it.
 
My barber shop stopped shaving your neck, or your face with a straight-razor years ago during the AIDS & hepatitis C scare.

They also told me it's an insurance thing.

Plus, a lot more sterilization then a good straight razor takes kindly too.

Apparently some shops still do it, as I see people with sports logos shaved into their head?
Just not the one I go too I guess.

rc
 
I have one, a Dovo. While a good blade and sentimental as it was given to me by my grandfather, I usually shave with a silo type double edge.

From everything i have read, Dovo is still one of the few places to go for a good razor these days.

Razor type aside, I still find it preferable to shave with soap and brush over the canned creams. Much smoother shave, even with the same razor.
 
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