Stuck case 44 Magnum

[Win1892]

Had a brand new Starline 44mag case separate almost in half in a Model 94 AE. The half case extracted. The other half of the case is still in the gun.

I'm at a loss how to remove the stuck piece.

Also at a loss as to what happened.

The batch of ammo was loaded to moderate pressure. This was the first shot of the day but the same handloads had been fired at a previous outing.

Some Specials were fired through it weeks ago and I know it was not cleaned afterward, and only about 6 Specials were fired.

There are no marks on the case rim indicating difficult extraction. Just looks like Starline made a bad one.

 

[Win1892]

Added photo

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

can you try and chamber a dummy round and get the case to stick to the bullet
just a thought

 

[Shimitup]

Try shoving a cleaning brush into it and pull it back. You might shoot a little penetrating oil in first and wait a while if it seems stuck to the chamber.

 

[Win1892]

Actually the shooter racked the lever after the round fired and separated, not realizing there was a problem. After the next round would not chamber the rifle was examined, the extracted case was found on the ground, and the search for answers began.

 

[Patrick Gookin]

I had something similar happen to a revolver once. The brass broke in half when I tried to pull it out. I just carefully tapped the case out with a brass punch. Maybe a cleaning rod will catch on the brass in the chamber and you can lightly tap it out? Keep in mind I'm not a gunsmith or trained in any way in this field. I'm just an idiot with a small hammer and brass punches. Also, a steel cleaning rod beating on a steel chamber could cause the chamber walls to scar. If you end up having to go this route (if you even can), use a metal softer than your barrel.

 

[MrDig]

Since they don't seem to make a 44 caliber shell extractor this link explains it well. Not certain what you will go through on a Levergun but give the aluminum cleaning rod a try.

Sorry about that the link I referred to might help this post a little don't you think?
So here is the linkhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk

 

[BSA1]

HOLY HOT LOADS BATMAN! The impression on the head and flattened primer sure look like hot reloads to me. Along with a dirty chamber from the shorter Specials you have a recipe for a disaster.

 

[beatledog7]

Looks like a double charge.

 

[rcmodel]

get a new .45 cal bore brush.
Force it in the chamber about half way.

Then use a cleaning rod with a flat tip jag from the muzzle to knock it back out.

The reversed brush bristles should snag the case mouth and drag it out with it.

rc

 

[mitchz]

I had the exact problem in a .357 lever. I tried allot of different brushes and jags for while. No luck so I cut about 6 inches off a coat hanger and bent 1/4 of an inch of one end over 90 degrees The other end was slighly bent so it would feed into the chamber then I had to use a patched jag to push it out.

 

[.22-5-40]

Hello, Win1892. I had a case seperation last summer in an original .25-25 Stevens..after firing black powder loads..here I was with a black powder fouled gun and a stuck piece of case in chamber! New brush trick didn't do anything..so if that doesn't work for you..Here is what I did..after I got home, I cleaned bore well, then lightly oiled. Taking an unsized soft lead .25 bullet, I tapped into muzzle using a small rawhide hammer...NOTE...DO NOT use a steel hammer for this!!!...If you do..chances are you will be using some very bad words!..Even a brass hammer will dent steel..trust me! Plastic or wood is safe. Use a close fitting 1 piece rod..a heavy brass or coated steel rod can be used, thread a proper flat faced jag into rod...once slug is completly into bore..it will be snug..but will be able to tap thru..a short piece of brass rod can be used to start slug down into bore before longer rod is used...slug should catch front edge of case & push out.
DO NOT use any kind of steel "hook" type tool if you value your chambers finish!
Best of luck!

 

[45_auto]

If the bore brush method doesn't work at room temperature, it may work if you shrink the brass first.

I've removed about a dozen stuck broken cases by the following method:

Plug the barrel with some cleaning patches just ahead of the chamber.

Put some dry ice (CO2) into some acetone. The dry ice will get the acetone down to more than 100F below zero. The acetone won't freeze.

Get your bore brush ready.

Tilt the barrel down and pour some of the cold acetone into the chamber (broken case) for 5 or 6 seconds. This will shrink the brass considerably.

Dump the acetone out and quickly try the bore brush. I've never had one fail to come out using this method.

It works because the CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) of brass is about twice that of steel. The brass shrinks twice as much as the steel chamber, plus the steel chamber has a huge thermal mass (won't get as cold as the brass) compared to the brass.

This method is commonly used in shops for fitting/removing shrink-fit sleeves and bearings.

 

[Win1892]

I slugged the barrel with a pure lead ball and a fiberglass rod. Pushed the stuck case right out.

Going to take apart some loaded rounds tonight and look for powder weight inconsistencies.

 

[blarby]

WOW that case was CREAMED !

I agree with BSA.

I've used a lot of starline in 44 mag. None of them EVER looked like that.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Brass drift or a cut off and ever so slightly beveled piece of drill rod/drill gage.

 

[AABEN]

Drive a 44 SWC top down to remove it