Stuck nipples, tight cylinder

[motorcycle_dan]

Okay in a weak moment at the log cabin shop I purchased a used stainless 1858 .44 cal.
It came with two cylinders and in fairly good condition.
I get it home and start fetter'n with it. I like to take 'em apart and make sure all the parts are clean and lubed properly.

Problem one. The cylinder in the gun had several nipples that were plugged. I tried to remove them, no luck. Put it in a pot of boiling water on the stove and let it simmer for a few hours. That allowed me to clear the plugged nipples but still could not remove them. Stuck tight. I quit before bugger'n up the nipples. I will need a new stronger nipple wrench. Mine sort of spread the fingers.

1. So looking for those old tricks to get stuck nipples out of a cylinder.
2. Who makes a strong nipple wrench? Source?

No biggie thinks I, the gun came with a spare cylinder. So I go about installing the spare cylinder. It is tight. Way too tight. It goes in but just barely. It needs help rotating the cylinder while cocking the hammer. Rubbing on the back of the forcing cone.

Is it a reasonable plan to stone the face of the cylinder to fit in this frame? Or is it better to take metal from some other area?

3. How is a new cylinder fitted to a frame?

 

[Duncaninfrance]

2. Who makes a strong nipple wrench? Source?

Try Big Iron Barrels
If you still have problems then e.mail Jule, he should be able to help you.

 

[Jim K]

For removing stuck nipples and screws, don't try too hard and bugger up the nipple or screw. The reason that happens is that the wrench or screwdriver slips when it is being turned and it is almost impossible to prevent slippage with just the human strength. So try this:

Soak the nipple or screw in a penetrant for a couple of days. That may allow it to be removed easily. If not, and if you have access to a drill press, tap out the handle of the nipple wrench and chuck the wrench into the press. Using leather padding, clamp the cylinder tightly in the drill press vise, rear end up. Now, bring the nipple wrench down on the nipple, turning it as necessary to fit. Lock the press down or hold it down using the handle, and turn the chuck by hand, working it back and forth. Since the wrench can't jump off the nipple, it will almost always loosen the nipple. DO NOT turn on the drill press power; this is strictly a hand operation.

This will work on just about any stuck nipple. For stuck screws, use a stub screwdriver blade (without a handle), like they sell in screwdriver sets and for power tools.

Jim

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Good going man, my Child-Safe filter at work blocked me from reading this particular thread...

-MV

 

[mykeal]

cylinder length

First of all, yes, removing material from the cylinder face is the best solution to the problem of interference between the forcing cone and the cylinder.

Now, is the cylinder really longer? Can you measure the length of the two cylinders with a micrometer or caliper? Measurement tools capable of this measurement are not in most home hobbyist's tool chests, so perhaps you can have a gunsmith or machinist do it for you.

If the cylinder is really longer having the exact amount will give you a good aim point for how much to take off.

A gunsmith can usually do this fairly cheaply and include the refinishing of the cylinder face.

 

[Plink]

Try the penetrating oil trick and if you still have a sticky one, try heating the cylinder but not the nipple. That'll expand it a little and usually does the trick. Another odd hint I picked up but haven't tried yet, is to tighten them in just a tad more. Just a slim fraction of a turn. Apparently it helps break the bond and make removing them easy. Good luck!

 

[dstorm1911]

the drill press method is your answer but FIRST set the cyl. in a saucer or shallow pan coffee can etc.. nipples down now fill each chamber with Automatic transmission fluid then pour enough into the can etc to just cover the nipples this will keep the fluid from leaking out of the chambers now using a hot plate or other electric heating source heat the container just enough that the oil simmers, let it heat for about 20 minutes then let cool completally then reheat then let it cool wipe off excess oil and attempt to remove nipples, they actually should just turn out but using the drill press will ensure the wrench cannot slip damaging a nipple..

I've done this with 100 year old gun barrels that no amount of heating cheater bars etc... could budge but the heat, cool, heat cool meathod always gets em out it soaks the oil right into the threads and even simmers out some of the crud causing them to stick..

 

[motorcycle_dan]

Auto transmission fluid?

That was my thought, some kind of penetrating oil. Never thought of ATF.
I have some stuff, Kroil or something like that. Penetrating oil in a spray can.
Works wonders on old rusty motorcycle parts.

That was my thought.

I had read about the drill press trick. That was my next plan when I found a wrench of good enough quality to put some torque on it.

I thought about heating the cylinder and attempting to cool the nipple. Wasn't sure how to go about that. Freeze the nipple wrench?

Need to get off work early one day and go see the folks down at big iron barrels and get one of them super nipple wrenches.

Thanks for the info and I'll post picture of how they come out.

Someone suggested measuring the new cylinder against the old cylinder. Not sure where to measure from. I have a pretty good machine shop (for my motorcycle addiction) Depth and outside micrometers I have still remember how to use. (I think)

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

I bought a boxed nipple wrench from BigIron ..it worked great for removeing the nipples out of a used gun i bought , i thought i`d never get the nipples out even after soaking a week in oils .. its quite the super wrench .

 

[motorcycle_dan]

cylinder soaking

Okay This morning I put the cylinder nipples down in a empty soup can. covered about half way up with "PB blaster" a penetrating oil.

This is a stainless steel cylinder with I assume steel nipples. Anything special about getting these two metals to let go of one another?

My plan it to let it soak through the weekend then try the drill press trick after I get a big iron nipple wrench.

Just as a status update. I took a machinist file to the replacement cylinder. Taking it very slow I removed just a little metal by sliding it on a file. Kept rotating the cylinder to keep it even. (While watching Pale Rider on DVD)
Good ole Clit driftwood... Gotta love him.

 

[Tbu61]

I had a similar Nipple issue on a Thompson Center Cherokee.
Alas, all the kings horses/men failed me, the nipple stripped round. Wound up drilling the center of the nipple as much as I dared, then used an "Easy out" to extract the remains.

Word of caution, an "Easy out" can be brittle and shatter violently, leaving VERY SHARP edges behind. Use with caution and only as a last option. If you have no other alternatives and have to revert to surgery, wear gloves and eye protection. Vise you cylinder Torque the Easy out carefully.

Always use Anti-Seize on nipple threads when replacing...

Good luck!

tbu

 

[ATAShooter]

+1 on the PB Blaster. The Vatican ought to consider Sainthood for it due to the miracles it's done for me.

 

[motorcycle_dan]

Took it to the doctor

Since I'm lucky enough to call Ohio home, I got to visit Jule of bigiron barrels. Left the cylinder with him for repair. Good guy this Jule, very knowledgeable and friendly sort.

He agreed that the nipples in question will probably end up meeting with Mr. Drill bit.

Even after a week in PB Blaster, they wouldn't budge. Jule said he'd get to it as time allowed.

By the way if you are listening, We went by Hugus fruit farm and got lunch supplies. You were right, the Cider was most excellent. Cheese, sesame cracker and a small slice of pear. Mmmmmmmm Good lunch on a beautiful warm December day.