Suggestions on extra M1 Garand supplies?

[TCW]

Hi All,
I'm finally getting my CMP Garand and was interested in geting a few things to stick in that buttstock!

1. Are those old garand cleaning kits with the multi-piece steel cleaning rod a bad idea (could ding the muzzle)?

2. Are those old grease pots still ok for lubing the M1?

3. Should I get a M3 combo tool or the M10(?) tool that usually comes with the cleaning rod kit.

4. Is that wider chamber brush good to have, or will a bore brush suffice?

Thanks!
TCW

 

[Onmilo]

1. Always a good idea to have a GI cleaning kit stored in the buttstock because that's the way things were meant to be.
I don't use mine unless some emergency requires it, there are much better tools available today than when that stuff was first issued.
A Hoppes Bore Snake will actually work better than a GI kit and no worries about dinging anything.

2. Grease is Grease and unless the grease in the pots has become hard and cakey it will work OK for lubing the rifle.
Again, there are much better modern products for grease lubing an M1.
I like Tetra Gun Grease, many others like Mil-Tec grease.

3. For the sake of history, buy one of each, they are fun to use once in a while but again, you will be better served with more modern products.
The last time I talked to Bill Ricca he still had some USGI 30/06 Chamber Brushes available. These look and act like the M14 chamber brush, only longer.
A product specific bolt diassembly tool will work much better, and easier, than a combo tool for taking apart and reassembling the bolt.

4. In a pinch, if you are handy, you can take a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" square steel stock and drill and tap an 8X32 or 10X32 hole on the side of one end,(depending on the thread size of the brushes you have on hand.)
Screw in a .45 rifle brush and this will work marvelous for cleaning the gook out of the chamber.
I am going to do this if I ever run out of USGI .30/06 chamber brushes

 

[ocabj]

1. Are those old garand cleaning kits with the multi-piece steel cleaning rod a bad idea (could ding the muzzle)?

2. Are those old grease pots still ok for lubing the M1?

3. Should I get a M3 combo tool or the M10(?) tool that usually comes with the cleaning rod kit.

4. Is that wider chamber brush good to have, or will a bore brush suffice?

1. Never use a segmented rod. EVER. Single piece rod, coated is best. Stainless is tolerable. Aluminum never. But NEVER EVER use a segemented rod. And get yourself a muzzle guide.

2. Wheel bearing grease is popular. Lubriplate is also popular among M1 owners. I use wheel bearing grease because it's easy to get.

3. If you get the combo tool, get the one with the patch holder as opposed to the brush. The one with the patch holder is decent for cleaning the chamber.

4. You can use a lot of things to clean the chamber. A 45 brush would work if you have a way to insert it. I use a long 45 cal bore mop.

 

[30Cal]

The M10 combo tool is the easiest way to disassemble the bolt. You chamber the tool and rotate it. Done. Getting it back together is a little tricker.

 

[Telperion]

TCW: I highly recommend Scott Duff's M1 Garand Owner's Guide. It covers a lot of cleaning and maintaince questions.

 

[cracked butt]

Along with the things listed above, you might as well order a new oprod spring and install it as soon as you get your rifle as well.

 

[heypete]

My friend bought dozens of those little M1 grease pots, and has had great success with them. He also keeps some patches and some CLP in the plastic oil bottle that came with the rifles back then too (he bought a few of the plastic bottles as well). He also keeps the original GI cleaning kit in the stock, though he frequently uses bore snakes and one-piece rods to clean it.

I have a stainless one-piece rod I keep smooth and debris free (Am I the only one who CLPs and wipes clean my cleaning rod with a terry towel in between cleaning sessions, and wipes it down after every few strokes with just the towel?) that works really well for cleaning .30 cal and up barrels. Definitely use a "proper" cleaning rod if at all possible, using the GI rods only when out in the field and you have no other options...though you should be able to stuff a boresnake in there just the same. (Having a cleaning rod to clear out a squib round might be useful, though...)

For grease, I tend to use silicone grease, mostly because it's far less obnoxious than the petroleum-based grease, and easier to wipe off my hands. Haven't had any problems with it yet.

 

[TCW]

Thanks for the suggestions!


I'll probably get the folding multi-tool (M3-A1) and keep it in the buttstock...along with a more modern COATED segmented cleaning rod. I wonder if any CLP would fit in on of those holes too. Hmmm...

I also wonder if those old grease pots could be refilled with a more modern grease...

 

[30Cal]

Don't bother with a segmented rod of any kind. They don't stay straight for long. You get 3 opportunities with each pass to scour and ding the crown. Even on a one piece rod, the coating will get scraped off over time.

The GI kit is OK for occasional field use, but for regular cleaning get a single piece rod or a pull through deal like the old GI thong or an Otis kit.

Ty

 

[TCW]

30Cal,
Thanks for the tip. I do have a coated one-piece cleaning rod that I use for regular cleaning. The segmented one would be for the sake of having everything I need in the rifle for emergency/field cleaning...and also to work the ratcheting chamber brush and that M10 combo tool that comes with it for stripping the rifle.

If all goes well, I probably will never actually use the segmented rod for bore cleaning

TCW

 

[Andrew Wyatt]

the segmented rod is all i use to clean it, primarily because I clean it at the range and then fire a clip through it to make sure i put it together right.

 

[dfariswheel]

I also strongly recommend NOT using a sectioned rod for cleaning, especially the poorly fitting GI rod.

BUT, you can safely use the GI rod IF you PULL it through the bore instead of pushing it.

In the field, I carefully put the rod down the bore, then screw on the brush or insert a patch in the loop.
I soak the brush or patch, then carefully PULL the rod through the bore, guiding it with my fingers.
Since you aren't pushing the rod down the bore, it can't flex and wear or damage the muzzle.

The best tool you can have for the M1 is the late type M3-A1 Combination tool.
The earlier tool with the slotted patch holder was discontinued for two reasons.
First, the brush did a better job of cleaning fouling from the chamber.

Second, they found out that the slotted tool would score or damage the chamber.

The M3-A1 is also the easiest way to disassemble the bolt while it's in the rifle.
With the M3-A1 combination tool you can:
Disassemble and reassemble the bolt IN the rifle.
Disassemble and reassemble the bolt OUT of the rifle.
Disassemble the gas system.
Clean the chamber.
Tension the rear sight.
Disassemble the rear sight.
Use as a general screwdriver and pin punch for disassembly.
Extract a stuck cartridge.

One warning: NEVER wrap a patch around the M3-A1 chamber brush to clean the chamber. This "springs" the brass bristles and ruins the brush.

Haunt the gun shows, and check the surplus parts sellers for new M3-A1 replacement brushes, and buy a few spares.

The original GI grease was yellow-white Lubriplate.
Later this was changed to brownish Plasti-Lube.

You can still buy both in larger sizes from Brownell's and Champion's Choice.

In truth any high quality, water proof, heat resistant grease will work as well.

One of the best accessories you can buy for your M1 is a gas cylinder wrench.
This is a special aluminum wrench that fits around the gas cylinder,and is used to hold it steady while tightening down the gas cylinder lock screw.

This prevents damaging the gas cylinder or barrel splines, and keeps the system tight on the barrel.

The wrench can be bought from a number of sources and isn't expensive.

Tightening the gas cylinder lock screw without a wrench puts a tremendous strain on the cylinder and barrel splines, and this will loosen the fit quickly.

 

[30Cal]

I just lightly clamp the front of the gas system in a padded vise which is pretty much the same as a gas cyl wrench (except it isn't as portable).

Ty

 

[TCW]

What's a good online source for a Gas Cylinder Wrench? Fulton Armory has them for $10.00 but they want another $8.00 for shipping...

 

[TCW]

...Anyone else want to chime in on their preference between the M3-A1 multi-tool versus the M10 tool (that comes with the butstock cleaning kit)?

 

[ocabj]

I shoot my Garand quite a bit. These are the following items I actually use for cleaning:

Dewey 30CF25 cleaning rod (one piece, coated, 30 cal, 25", female)
Tipton 30cal brass jag (I found this is better than the Dewey jag that comes with the rod)
Dewey 30 cal brass muzzle guide
Sinclair cotton patches
Butch's Bore Shine
Sinclair or Tipton bronze bristle/core brushes
CMP gas cylinder lock screw brass wrench (not the same as a gas cylinder wrench; used to unscrew lock screw, gives better leverage over a standard screw driver)
.45 cal brush (I use this wrapped with a patch to wipe down the inside of the gas cylinder)
.45 cal mop (I use this to wipe the chamber)

Note: For general 'after-shooting' cleaning, I will remove the gas cylinder lock screw and gas cylinder lock to wipe the threads of the barrel and to run the 45 brush into the gas cylinder. I DO NOT remove the gas cylinder after every shoot. You do not want to do this because it will wear down the gas cylinder to barrel spline fit which is very crucial to M1 accuracy. Hardcore Garand shooters will tell you that they will remove the gas cylinder for a thorough cleaning maybe once a year or if absolutely necessary (ie: rifle rained on, parts replacement).

Also, it's best to clean the rifle upside down so no solvent gets into the gas port and into the gas cylinder.

 

[TCW]

Is it really necessary to use a gas cylinder wrench when removing the gas cylinder lock?

 

[ocabj]

A wrench to remove the lock? No. Not at all.

 

[dfariswheel]

That depends on how tight the screw is.

If it's really tight, even unscrewing it can stress the splines.
On a service rifle, this isn't as critical as on a National Match rifle, but I still protect my gas cylinder and the barrel.

TCW:
The M3-A1 is better because it's a more complete tool.

With the M10 cleaning rod handle, you can only disassemble the bolt while it's in the rifle, unscrew the gas cylinder lock, tension the sight, and have a screwdriver.

In addition, using the handle to install or remove the gas screw can bend the cleaning rod section that is used as a handle.

As above, the M3-A1 Combination tool can:
Disassemble and reassemble the bolt IN the rifle.
Disassemble and reassemble the bolt OUT of the rifle.
Disassemble the gas system.
Clean the chamber.
Tension the rear sight.
Disassemble the rear sight.
Use as a general screwdriver and pin punch for disassembly.
Extract a stuck cartridge.

Personally, I have BOTH.
The M10 handle is in the butt stock along with the cleaning rod sections, a bore brush and cleaning rod loop tip, a tiny jar of Lubriplate, the nickel plated brass oiler, and patches.

 

[TCW]

Thanks! You guys really know your stuff.

I'm getting my CMP rifle in a couple of days, so honestly, I don't know how tight the gas chamber screw will be. I figured that the chamber would need to be cleaned like the rest of the gun and wanted to get the best tools for the job. I will go with the M1-A3 tool first. I'll also get the gas cylinder wrench to be safe...It's not a match rifle, but I still don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks again!