Suitable .223 round for home defense?

[ChristopherG]

Must admit I'm an 870 man myself (in the house; outside I'll load as heavy a bullet as my .223 twist rate will handle, as Zak suggests), but I'm curious if anyone is familiar with this 50 grain frangible-tipped stuff being sold by Eric at ammoman.com:

 

[sixgunner455]

AR carbines are great home defense weapons. Not what a person absolutely "must have". "Most people" could get by adequately in real life with a model 10 S&W and a single-shot 20 guage for most of their shooting and defensive chores. That AR is more efficient to actually shoot that those simple old guns, though. More ammo, quick reload, low recoil for fast follow up shots = accurate rifle power applied to the target. I like it.

But I never sneer at what another person decides is right for them to use in this role.

 

[RockyMtnTactical]

No, not that particular load... it's a varmint bullet. Though the .223 is a great HD round if you have the correct loading.

http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=185

ALL CREDIT FOR THIS ARTICLE BELONGS TO TROY. I'm merely putting it in the content archive since he's been very busy.

Okay, for the folks who haven't read all the data which explains WHY (and I'm not going to re-hash that here for the hundredth time; if you want the "why", read the tacked posts and all related links), I'm going to break it down.

First, a few points:

5.56 vs. .223 loads. A "5.56" load means that the round is loaded to "military" pressures, which exceeds SAAMI's safe rating, and generally means from 120 fps (75-77gr bullets) to 200 fps (55gr bullets) additional muzzle velocity. AR-based rifles with "5.56" or Wylde chambers can fire this ammo safely. More muzzle velocity means a longer fragmentation range, so 5.56 loads are more desirable. Having said that, you are almost always better off using a better-performing bullet in a .223 load than a lesser-performing bullet in a 5.56 load.

Generally, Open-Tip Match (OTM) bullets, also called Jacketed "Hollow-Point - Boat-Tail, Match" (JHP-BT Match) or Boat-Tail Hollow-Point, Match (BTHP Match) bullets, are the most reliable performers, as the consistancy in construction required for match accuracy also results in consistant terminal ballistic performance.


Okay, from best to worst:

1. Loads using the Nosler 77gr or Hornady 75gr OTM bullet. While these bullets may be slightly less accurate *in some rifles* than the Sierra MK, they offer better wounding capability. These bullets maximize terminal ballistic performance AND they extend fragmentation range over other loads, and even provide *some* fragmentation range from 10" barrels. These bullets require 1:8 or tighter twist barrels, though they may work in SOME 1:9 barrels.

- Hornady 75gr TAP (5.56 load)
- Hornady 75gr TAP or TAP-PD (.223 load)
- Black Hills loads with 75gr Hornady (.223)
- (no known factory load using the Nosler bullet)

2. Loads using the Sierra 77gr MK. Like all MK bullets, this one doesn't start to yaw until it passes through several inches of flesh, resulting in a longer "neck" area of the wound profile, and thus being rated slightly lower than the Nosler or Hornady bullets.

- Black Hills Mk262 Mod1 (5.56, cosmetic seconds are available)
- Black Hills 77gr Sierra loads (.223)
- Federal 77gr Sierra (.223)


77grain MatchKing OTM in calibrated ballistic gelatin. Note the long "neck" before fragmentation begins.


3. Loads using the 68gr Hornady OTM. Note: barrel length needs to be 14.5" or longer; these will not have enough velocity to fragment from a 10" barrel and only a couple of yards from an 11.5" barrel. 1:9 or faster twist required.

- Hornady 68gr Match (.223)
- Black Hills 68gr Hornady (.223)

4. Loads using the 69gr Sierra MK. Note: barrel length needs to be 14.5" or longer; these will not have enough velocity to fragment from a 10" barrel and only a couple of yards from an 11.5" barrel. 1:9 or faster twist required.

- Federal 69gr Sierra (.223)
- Black Hills 69gr Sierra (.223)

5. Loads using Trophy-Bonded Bear Claw bullets. The 62gr performs a bit better than the 55gr, but the 62gr bullet is ONLY available in the LEO-only Federal Tactical line. As a bonded-core bullet, these are excellent in situations with an intermediate barrier, and are the #1 performers when having to shoot through glass. Note: these soft-point bullets have an exposed lead tip and cannot be rechambered more than a few times. May not feed reliably in some rifles.

Federal Tactical 62gr TBBC (.223)
Federal Tactical 55gr TBBC (.223)
Federal Premium 55gr TBBC (.223)


6. Loads using the Winchester 64gr PowerPoint bullet. Note: these soft-point bullets have an exposed lead tip and cannot be rechambered more than a few times. May not feed reliably in some rifles. 1:10 or faster twist required.

- Winchester Supreme PowerPoint Plus (.223)
- Winchester Super-X PowerPoint (.223)


7. M193-class ammo, 55gr FMJ-BT bullet. True M193 ammo will be sealed at the bullet and primer, will have a crimped primer and bullet, and is a 5.56 pressure loading. 1:12 or faster twist required.

- Lake City M193 (genuine surplus M193; no longer available)
- Federal XM193 (seconds) or XM193PD (thirds)
- Winchester Q3131 (seconds)
- Winchester Q3131A (manufactured by IMI)
- IMI M193
- PMC, '98 and earlier
- South African M1Ax in battlepacks

8. M855-class ammo, 62gr FMJ-BT bullet with mild steel penetrator in the nose. True M193 ammo will be sealed at the bullet and primer, will have a crimped primer and bullet, and is a 5.56 pressure loading. 1:10 or faster twist required.

- Lake City M855 (genuine surplus M855; no longer available)
- Winchester M855 (genuine surplus M855; no longer available)
- Federal XM855 (seconds) or XM855PD (thirds)
- Canadian IVI (genuine surplus M855; no longer available)
- British SS-109


This list should give you an idea of what is preferred, and in what order. Obviously, many of the loads at the top are quite a bit more expensive than the loads further down (though the TBBC loads are by far the most expensive), but if you're looking just at performance, then this should be your guideline.

I might not have gotten every load out there, but you should be able figure it out if there's a similar load that I didn't mention.

ETA:

Loads To Avoid

Anything loaded with a varmint bullet; all varmint bullets in this caliber will underpenetrate from all guns. This means NO VMax bullets (including TAP loads), NO Nosler/Combined Technologies "Ballistic Tip" bullets, and so on. Varmint bullets were designed for animals no larger than 60 lbs., with the lighter bullets being designed for even smaller animals. They are NOT combat bullets, regardless of marketing to the contrary.

Any frangible bullet load. Frangible bullets are designed for short-range training, where shooting standard bullets at reactive steel targets would be (more of) a safety hazard. Usually, they are made from powdered lead or tungsten alloy inside a gilding metal jacket. They are designed to disintegrate when striking steel plates, but they are NOT designed to (nor do they accidentally) fragment in flesh.

"Armor Piercing" bullets. It is incredibly unlikely that anyone outside of the military will be able to put their hands on a single round of TRUE AP ammo in 5.56, as M995 AP ammo is a speciality item that is rarely issued to anyone but SOCOM troops, and then only on SAW belts, and only when specially requested for a specific mission. It is very expensive and in short supply, and it was designed primarily to disable equipment, NOT for wounding. Since the bullet will not fragment, it is a poor performer with regards to wound profile. This would hold true for any all-steel core or solid copper bullet as well.

Last Updated :: 4/11/2006 9:41:33 AM MDT

 

[Mr. T]

Suitable .223 round for home defense

I would have to say that if the .223 is all you have, then it is the best weapon for home defense. Personally I prefer a 20 guage Remington 870 youth model loaded with double 00 buck. It's light weight, very maneuverable and in interior CQB like situations it's absolutely lethal at those close ranges. If you don't think the 20's enough gun, then go to the 12 guage; either way you have a very lethal, very effective weapon that will be less likely to over penetrate the target, yet be almost instantaneous in incapacitating them. If you're in the country where you might have to take someone down at distance, then the rifle would be more appropriate, but if you live in a town or city, I would have to recommend the shotgun.

Mr. T

 

[possum]

The .223 as a HD rifle is advocated largely by advertisments and mall ninjas.

I totally disagree, and there are many people that have been at this alot longer than i and they would have to disagree with you as well. Ie Zak Smith......
I am a sgt in the army infantry, not a mall ninja, but i have been wanting to apply....

OP,
look into the TAP line by Hornaday, they make good stuff. Rounds are consistent from shot to shot, less flash in low light conditions, and they are made for teh exact purposes that you want them for.

 

[possum]

Frankly I think the idea of using a rifle firing a rifle cartridge inside of your home will generally result in shots through walls and unintended targets getting hit.

for you and the many others here that believe the above i advise that you check out Rob Pincus' video from Personal Firearm Defense, titled "Combat Focus Shooting and Home Defense Tips."
he does a mock up of rooms and a hallway, and uses different rounds, out of different systems and you get to see the results for your self. the TAP 5.56 did among the best. out performing and penetraing less than the handgun rounds.

when was the last time armored criminals attempted to break into your domicile? More to the point,

It matters not what the BG is wearing, it is about choosing the best tool for the job at hand.

 

[benEzra]

I would keep some ball ammo around incase they are wearing body armor.

JHP penetrates Kevlar just as well as FMJ at rifle velocities.

I think any rifle is a bad idea indoors. If you own "property" like a farm or ranch that's different. But for "home" defense any CF rifle will over penetrate

Not the case IF you are using the right ammunition. .223 JHP's of moderate weight penetrate less in both building materials and ballistic gelatin than most 9mm JHP. Just don't use FMJ unless you have masonry exterior walls and/or no neighbors in the line of fire.

My own personal preference is Federal 55-grain JHP, which tilts toward the shallow penetration side but IMO is still sufficient. I don't personally consider 69- or 77-grain loads necessary for in-home use, though I certainly see where LEO's would want a bit more penetration, and I respect the opinion of those who prefer the heavier loads for HD as well.

deafren you with the report

A .223 with a civilian-length barrel (16" or greater) and no muzzle brake is no louder than a 9mm and less loud than a .357, although the rifle will be a bit boomier (more bass and longer pressure pulse).

12 Gauge, 18" barrel.........................161.5 dB
.223, 55GR. Commercial load 18" barrel.......155.5 dB
.30-30 in 20" barrel.........................156.0 dB
9mm..........................................159.8 dB
.357 Magnum..................................164.3 dB
.45 ACP......................................157.0 dB

(Data from here.)

Yes, a .223 fired in an enclosed space is EXTREMELY loud and can cause hearing damage. The same is true of any defensive-caliber centerfire pistol or 18" barreled 12-gauge. Just don't use a rifle with a brake or a sub-16" barrel.

clumsy when negotiating close quarters like narrow hallways

Can be, but no more so than a shotgun, and that's a good argument for adjustable-length M4-style stocks on a long gun (IMO). My own house is not large (1300ish square feet), but the spaces are plenty wide to move freely with a carbine, although you'd have a bit of trouble with something longer. Practice also helps.

LEO's and military do fine moving with long guns in very close quarters, even bulked up with vests and gear that you or I won't be wearing in our homes.

a long gun is more easily wrested away if you get jumped in the dark by an intruder.

I'm not convinced of this one. Retention positions can be used for both.

There is also the matter of using a military styled rifle. It's not impossible that an anti-gun, overzealous prosecutor or civil attorney hired to sue your butt off could make an issue of it with an ignorant jury carefully selected for anti-gun opinions.

Less of a problem now that more Americans own "assault weapons" than hunt, IMO. And given the number of departments now issuing non-automatic civilian AR-15's for general patrol, your local prosecutor can't really bash AR-15's anymore without shooting himself in the foot with the PD.

I have lots of black guns with 20 and 30 round mags but I would never consider using one for indoor home defense. But my experience is that just about everyone here will call me nuts. Do as you think best.

You're not nuts, by any means. One should use whatever he/she is most comfortable with. But those who choose small-caliber carbines are not nuts, either.

I'm curious if anyone is familiar with this 50 grain frangible-tipped stuff

I suspect that is training ammunition for indoor ranges (it goes to powder when it hits steel). This won't necessarily penetrate less in wallboard than a regular .223 JHP, because wallboard probably won't shatter it like steel would. Terminal effects could resemble either FMJ or a super-lightweight varmint bullet, depending on how fragile that particular frangible is.

 

[Rifleman 173]

PRACTICE is the key to successfully using ANY FIREARM.

Practice a lot with a pistol and you're golden for home defense. Practice with a rifle a lot and you're golden for home defense. Practice with a shotgun for home defense a lot and you're golden there too.

Pick your firearm. Develop your home defense plan. Practice a lot with your firearm of choice and you're probably going to succeed when others fail. Also overlap or layer your plans of defense and plan to transition back and forth from firearm to firearm. Practice what you plan too.

In other words, come around my house with evil intentions and you will be met by a grumpy old man packing a rifle that is backed up by a handgun that is backed up by a good sheath knife. I know which directions I want to shoot with my rifle and which directions or reasons I would use my handgun. Get too close and the knife comes out if needed.

Anybody who limits themselves in using firearms limits themselves in their plan of defense. Firearms are tools and you need to remember to pick the right tool for the right job.