Suppressor Maintenance?

[SeanMTX]

I own an AAC Ti-Rant suppressor and bought it because it could be taken apart to be cleaned.

I've put probably 300-400 rounds through it thus far, and have yet to actually clean it.

What is the general consensus of how/when/what products to use in the cleaning of these items?

Also, I'm looking at another suppressor that is NOT able to be dissembled. Is an ultrasonic cleaner all I need?

Thanks!

 

[PostalGlock'n]

Shooting 9mm or 45 doesn't need much cleaning really. Minimal deposit, more like a gritty soot. Some like to clean around 500, I've went way past 1000 between cleanings and still didn't have a lot to clean off.

Barrel length will make a difference too. A 4.5" pistol barrel will leave more powder residue than a 10.5" carbine.

 

[Telekinesis]

Shooting the can wet can also change the frequency that you need to clean the can. For instance, I have a 9mm micro can that is designed to use water/wire pulling gel/grease and a wipe (a bit of work, but it's 4" long and hearing safe!). It's a great can, but because of its design and needing to constantly be refilled with ablative, you definitely have residue buildup. I've gotten to the point that after a day of shooting, I just leave it disassembled until I get home and clean it. Otherwise it's a bear to take apart.

On the other hand, if you're shooting with a dry can, you should be fine for 500-1000 rounds if you're using centerfire pistol ammo. As for the process of cleaning them, I just use my standard gun cleaning materials - clean the residue with your choice of solvent, maybe a very light coat of oil on the parts, then reassemble.

The sealed can depends on what caliber you are getting it in. If its a centerfire rifle or pistol can, don't worry about cleaning it. If you eventually start to hear a degradation in performance, call the manufacturer. Several will clean the can for you and send it back for the cost of postage.

 

[boricua9mm]

Since the Tirant does not have a closed baffle design (like the SWR Octane), I recommend you clean it every 500 rounds or else it will become nearly impossible to get the baffle stack out. It'll be locked in place with hardened carbon. I had this same issue with my original Octane 9 HD before the closed baffle stack design came out. SWR recommended a cleaning interval of 500 rounds for that original open baffle design. There is a lot of carbon after 500 rounds, even though it is a pistol caliber. Make no mistake about it.

I clean my Octane 9 HD with 50/50 Purple Power and H20 using a Hornady Lock & Load 3L ultrasonic tank. It takes a good 2 hours in the tank to get *all* of the carbon off. Now, I should say that I only put the steel baffles, steel piston and steel booster housing in the tank. Ultrasonic cleaners tend to erode aluminum, and even if you don't see this right away, it definitely happens and you will see it in time.

I've been curious about using Fire Clean on my suppressor to keep the carbon from sticking, but it's an expensive product. I've been experimenting with a light coat of Bore Butter on the baffles to achieve the same result, but I've been using the Pine-smelling stuff which apparently isn't as effective as the plain yellow tube.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

I'm waiting on 3 cans but I can't imagine Powder Blast (a blend of acetone, toluene, and citrus oil) having any problem with a little carbon--It'll dissolve a lot of plastic gun hardware and finishes!

I'll let people know.

Mike

 

[hentown]

I'm waiting on 3 cans but I can't imagine Powder Blast (a blend of acetone, toluene, and citrus oil) having any problem with a little carbon--It'll dissolve a lot of plastic gun hardware and finishes!

I'll let people know.

Mike

Mike, that's a pretty bad analogy. There are a lot of fluids that dissolve plastics that are worthless for cleaning firearms. Huntertown recommends plain ol' Hoppe's #9. Works for me. I also tumble the baffles in corn cob media in a vibratory tumbler.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

The analogy was an aside. Those are strong organic solvents that are intended to dissolve powder residue and it they works very well. I use Hoppes for years, then CLP and I can tell your that Powder Blast is much more aggressive.

Leading is a completely different issue.

Mike

 

[boricua9mm]

We're not talking about carbon or powder "residue." We're talking about thick deposits of carbon that have been compacted and hardened by intense heat and pressure. It's nothing like, say, cleaning an AR bolt. This type of carbon buildup is serious and requires both chemical and manual/mechanical persuasion. If you find a solvent that can quickly and easily clean off the amount of carbon from 500+ rounds of center fire pistol cartridges, I'd love to hear about it. It would make my suppressed cleanup sessions much simpler. So far, Fireclean is the only thing that *sounds* like it might come close to fulfilling such a task.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

How is this different from cleaning a flash suppressor, a barrel, or even the chamber of a blowback firearms where the heat and pressure are much higher?

The OP asked about cleaning products. I don't think anyone, myself included, said that some elbow grease was not needed.

Mike

 

[boricua9mm]

Quantity, thickness & hardness for starters. All this crap about pistol caliber cans running clean is horse hockey.

I can clean a flash suppressor and barrel with a few passes of a bronze brush. That doesn't even begin to phase the carbon in my baffles.

 

[4v50 Gary]

I've seen a three baffle design that can be owner serviced as well as a one piece one at Shot. They're the way I'd go.

 

[wally]

From my GemTech Multimount TM:

ROUTINE CLEANING:
As a general rule (and contrary to popular opinion) suppressors have a longer life if no attempt is made at cleaning. There are no perfect solvents for the carbon deposited on the internal parts by the burning of powder, and some carbon residues will slightly increase performance. Field experience has shown that the suppressor will outlast a number of barrels.

I have the TiRant 9 and cleaned it after about 400 rds.

Different manufactures may have different designs and recommendations which you should follow. But if I had to clean mine after 4-500 rounds it wouldn't have made it through its first outing.

If you shoot lead bullets (like .22lr) you will need to clean out the lead, if you wait too long it may be near impossible to get it apart.