SW Model 10 price check

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Tex62

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Hi Folks,

Long time reader (6 months or so anyway) and first time poster. I will likely get more active here as I have gotten revolver'itis...

I am looking to pick up a snub. A local shop here has a 2" M10 pin barrel for $320. Looks to be in very good shape, but it has been "parkerized". Is it a good price?

Thanks, Marty
 
1st rule is to make sure it's not a converted .38 S&W UK Victory - they were often cut down and re-blued or Parkerized. They can be worth owning but not priced like a production M&P or Model 10 .38 Special. Is it an older one with a square butt and no locking lug in front of the ejector rod? (that = cut down).

If it's a recent one, figure out why it was parkerized - left to rust and pit? Did you give it a proper "check out" per the sticky at the top of the forum?
 
It's a pin barrel so it is older

Does the "Parkerized" finish make it more prone to rust then?

I was not able to check the action as it was tie wrapped. It looked fine otherwise. Very little wear on the cylinder, etc.

Thanks, Marty
 
Short answer, no, it's not a good price if it's a run-of-the-mill M10 that someone has needed to parkerize to cover up the rust. :)
 
So would the "pin barrel" be referring to the pin that is visible at the top edge of the barrel on teh front of the frame?

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So would the "pin barrel" be referring to the pin that is visible

Yes, that pin. There are multiple pins on the gun, of course but that is the one people are referring to when they say "a pinned barrel Smith" or variants of that statement. It was an integral part of barrel retention on S&W revolvers until the early '50s. At that time they switched to a "crush-fit" system of just torquing the threads tightly to achieve the needed fit. The pin stayed as part of the design for decades more - until 1982 or so. It was "deleted" then as it just wasn't important and an unnecessary step in manufacturing.

You can use the presence of a pinned barrel to date a gun as older/newer, but the fact the pin is there does not mean the barrel is stronger/weaker or anything like that, really.
 
Yes that is the pin on the barrel. I did not check to see if locking nug was on the barrel or not. The seller indicated that the gun was probably manufactured in the 70s. The gun looked to be in pretty good shape despite being parkerized...
 
Does the "Parkerized" finish make it more prone to rust then?

No, less prone. It is the finish the military commonly used. If you take care of a blued finish revolver, you'll never have a rust problem. That only happens if they are mistreated, heavily used (aka worn), or stored improperly and forgotten.

I don't have a good feel for the price one way or the other. I suspect it is close to market or a tad high. I have a blued Model 10 that I paid too much for a few years back, but it was in excellent condition. Good revolvers overall. Most peole were buying the 357's and the Model 10's kind of lost popularity but regained popularity with CCW interest.
 
oro, i have had the understanding that the crush fit barrels started in 1982

That is what I assumed in the past since that was when the "pinning" stopped. Here is what I was told a few years back. I got this information from a very long-time member of the SWCA who had discussed it with Roy Jinks and engineers at the factory on a tour during one of the annual meetings of the association. He is also a gun industry professional (armorer, gunsmith, and factory employee, too). I can't swear an oath it's accurate, but I trust my source. Heck, I have even let him work on my guns ;):

In the post-war years, S&W was busy making up for many years of a chronic civilian under-supply of handguns (Depression + WWII) as well as lack of profits to fund development. The booming sales also meant money to spend on innovation and engineering. From '46 to '61 a host of engineering changes went on almost yearly. New style ejector rods, sights, side plates, cylinder lug mechanicals, new models, etc. Also - magnums. In the early '50s new metallurgy allowed them to bring out smaller framed magnums (K's) as well as more powerful large-frame ones (the .44). At the same time they started the assembly process of precision torque-fitting the barrels for added integrity and especially strength in the magnums (what we call "crush fitting") and other models. The barrel pin was not discarded, but it was no longer the only system of securing and aligning the barrel.

Eventually, it was realized the "pin" was really superfluous in addition to the crush-fitting and the machining steps removed from production. It's easy to assume that is the date (82) that crush-fitting started, but in fact it had been around about 30 years.

I can't point to any document explaining this; but I imagine it is covered in an older issue of the SWCA reports that aren't available online. I mention my source so you can evaluate it; I have found these sources to be definitively reliable in the past.

Tex62 - I'd make sure it is in fact a 70s gun (or at least it's in factory shape and not a conversion). Swing out the cylinder and look for a model # stamp in there (10-x). That would mean it's not an "Oswald Special" - a cut-down and converted UK Victory model. If the gun is solid otherwise and not rough under the Parkerizing, it is probably a fair deal at $300 OTD. A really nice blued one in original shape can usually be had around $400 routinely. Personally, I'd want a decent discount to that to settle for a modified and altered one.
 
Oro,

Thanks for the advice and lessons :)

I am probably going to let it sit there a bit and think about what I really need. I'd like a smaller .38 for concealment uses. I have not studied the J Frames too much yet. I have a 4" M64 that I like, but I am starting to think the 2" M10 is too big for CCW (although I have big hands and the J frames feel freakishly small). I am not too worried about weight, but it would be nice to have something that is ok in a pants pocket...

Thanks, marty
 
oro, thanks for the info- im gonna look into it

Great. Let me know if you find out differently from someone who "really knows." As I said, I wasn't there so I can't swear to it and would love to have another knowledgeable source verify it.
 
Regarding the pinned barrel, 1982 makes since. My M64 is a late '82 model with the press fitted barrel. The dealer indicated the M10 was from the 70's. I don't have a serial number for it to ask for the date though...
 
I am probably going to let it sit there a bit and think about what I really need. I'd like a smaller .38 for concealment uses. I have not studied the J Frames too much yet. I have a 4" M64 that I like, but I am starting to think the 2" M10 is too big for CCW (although I have big hands and the J frames feel freakishly small). I am not too worried about weight, but it would be nice to have something that is ok in a pants pocket...

Ah... a J-frame with the right grips will work fine in a pants pocket. The M10 won't... at least in any pants I have.

Get an "airweight" if you want to pocket carry a j-frame IMO. Lighter is better. Recoil is quite a bit worse, but carry is much nicer.
 
Even airweight Js are alright to shoot with grips that fit your hand. I could never pocket carry a 2" K frame, I'm just too small built for that.
 
I am larger framed and have a few pants (cargo) that my 4" K frame will go in. I'd need a belt and I don't it I'd like it much though...

I am starting to think J Frame too, but they run close to $500 new and used here. It would sure pack lighter on a bike trip though...

Thanks.
 
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