Just put a Swede on Lay-away at local Pawn Shop. This gun has what appears to me some sort of muzzle cover threaded on the end of the barrel. The fellow I'm buying it from said he believes this is an attachment for using this gun for shooting blanks to catch the paper wads. I have seen screw on muzzle protectors before but nothing like what is on the end of this gun. It looks like a metal cap with holes in it. Anyone know more about this and whether or not these guns are safe to shoot regular ammo. Thanks.
Swede Mauser Question
- Thread starter PCCUSNRET
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The ends of the barrels are often threaded and many people put a thread protector on it. This just screws onto the threads and has the same diameter as the barrel. The blank firing adaptor screws on and actually shreds the wooden projectile. That's what might be on the end of that one. Swede Mausers are great shooters! The adaptor looks like this:
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Float Pilot
Member
Plus one with what Shooter said:
The Swedes and several other countries used wooden bullets inside their blanks.
Initially the troops were instructed to hold off to one side when shooting at OPFOR within a 100 yards or so... Well soldiers are the same everywhere so troops were getting hurt during war games.
Around the 1950s many Swede Mausers were re-barreled with threaded muzzles so they could fire blanks. Making them a m/96b or m/38b. As said before, the blank firing adapter shredded the wooden bullet.
The Swedes used a plastic thread protector. I have been using blued steel thread protectors made in the USA. The Swedes NEVER had flash hiders or muzzle brakes on their issue m/96 and m/38s.
The Swedes and several other countries used wooden bullets inside their blanks.
Initially the troops were instructed to hold off to one side when shooting at OPFOR within a 100 yards or so... Well soldiers are the same everywhere so troops were getting hurt during war games.
Around the 1950s many Swede Mausers were re-barreled with threaded muzzles so they could fire blanks. Making them a m/96b or m/38b. As said before, the blank firing adapter shredded the wooden bullet.
The Swedes used a plastic thread protector. I have been using blued steel thread protectors made in the USA. The Swedes NEVER had flash hiders or muzzle brakes on their issue m/96 and m/38s.
It's a good idea to check the headspace on those. The Swedish specs are different
than ours. What passes their "no go" may not pass our "no go" but will pass our "field".
Not a big deal if you are shooting all factory loads, but may require some sizing die adjustment if you are a reloader. In the mid 80's we chronographed some Norma
139 gr. factory loads in a 24 " barrel Swede. avg vel. was 2685 fps. We felt like those were a bit hot for most of those guns.
than ours. What passes their "no go" may not pass our "no go" but will pass our "field".
Not a big deal if you are shooting all factory loads, but may require some sizing die adjustment if you are a reloader. In the mid 80's we chronographed some Norma
139 gr. factory loads in a 24 " barrel Swede. avg vel. was 2685 fps. We felt like those were a bit hot for most of those guns.
Float Pilot
Member
The Norma hunting ammo is a bit hot.... Of course they have been using it in swede Mausers for over 100 years for hunting purposes.
US made ammo, is somewhat more tame in comparison, although no US ammo maker uses the correct size head for their 6.5x55mm brass.
The Federal hunting ammo is pretty accurate, fairly fast and not all that high pressure. While their brass is still slight;y undersized, it is nowhere near as bad as PMC brass which is very much undersized.
For reloading / hand-loading the 6.5x55mm I have settled on using only Lapua brass. Yes it is expensive, but the quality is so superior that it last much longer than other brands. I have some that I hand-loaded 12 times.
US made ammo, is somewhat more tame in comparison, although no US ammo maker uses the correct size head for their 6.5x55mm brass.
The Federal hunting ammo is pretty accurate, fairly fast and not all that high pressure. While their brass is still slight;y undersized, it is nowhere near as bad as PMC brass which is very much undersized.
For reloading / hand-loading the 6.5x55mm I have settled on using only Lapua brass. Yes it is expensive, but the quality is so superior that it last much longer than other brands. I have some that I hand-loaded 12 times.
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Thank you, I appreciate all the help. If I shoot it past 50yds I'll have to put a scope on it. I have a couple Swiss K-31's that shoot similar to your Swede but only with the addition of a scout scope. I can see 100 yds with my glasses, just can't get all 3 points to line up at one time 
. Do you happen to know if they make a non-permanent scope mount for the Swede? Thanks again, look forward to picking this gun up and seeing how it does.
. Do you happen to know if they make a non-permanent scope mount for the Swede? Thanks again, look forward to picking this gun up and seeing how it does.NCsmitty
Member
You might consider a Mojo replacement sight, as they help define the target with the natural rear sight alignment to the eye.
http://www.mojosights.com/
There are scout mounts that attach and uses a LER scope, and do not alter the rifle permanently. No bolt alteration needed with it.
http://home.comcast.net/~yzhu/accumount/class1/Swedish/Swedish.htm
NCsmitty
http://www.mojosights.com/
There are scout mounts that attach and uses a LER scope, and do not alter the rifle permanently. No bolt alteration needed with it.
http://home.comcast.net/~yzhu/accumount/class1/Swedish/Swedish.htm
NCsmitty
Float Pilot
Member
This guy from the Swede collectors forum has made some very nice non-perm scope mounts for Swede Mauser's.
http://dutchman.rebooty.com/
I am in my mid 50s now and can no longer see everything all that well. BUT, all I have to see clearly is the front sight. I just use a 6 o'clock hold and let everything else be fuzzy. My groups are all at 100 yards.
See the sight, win the fight.
I just won a as issued Mauser Match using 130 grain Berger bullets and my 1900 Oberndorf made m/96 rifle.
The 130 grain Berger load is the bottom group in this photo..
I installed a longer (taller) front sight blade and stoned it down until I zeroed this load at 100 yards.
http://dutchman.rebooty.com/
I am in my mid 50s now and can no longer see everything all that well. BUT, all I have to see clearly is the front sight. I just use a 6 o'clock hold and let everything else be fuzzy. My groups are all at 100 yards.
See the sight, win the fight.
I just won a as issued Mauser Match using 130 grain Berger bullets and my 1900 Oberndorf made m/96 rifle.
The 130 grain Berger load is the bottom group in this photo..
I installed a longer (taller) front sight blade and stoned it down until I zeroed this load at 100 yards.
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Just paid off my lay-away on this Swede and hope to take her to the range this evening if it cools down a little (right now it is 102 in the shade). The photo isn't great, but hopefully you can see that it appears to be in very good cosmetic condition. I looked at the bore and it looks very clean and hopefully it will shoot a good as my Swiss K-31's. All the parts have matching numbers and it also came with a bayonet that has a matching number. I will try it without a scope first, but if I decide to shoot it much I'll have to get one of the removable scope mounts. Thanks again for all your help.
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Float Pilot
Member
What are the particulars? When was she made and by whom?
What does the bore disc say on the stock?
How about repair station cartouches on the stock wrist?
Serial number check
Swede Mausers are my thing....
Better get the blank firing adapter off of there and into a drawer someplace.
What does the bore disc say on the stock?
How about repair station cartouches on the stock wrist?
Serial number check
Swede Mausers are my thing....
Better get the blank firing adapter off of there and into a drawer someplace.
What does the bore disc say on the stock?
Here's a photo of the disc. One number is supposed to be the bore size and the other the condition of the bore during last inspection. I understand the bore to be number 1, but not sure about the bore size.
How about repair station cartouches on the stock wrist?
It appears there are 2, but I can't tell what they are. I purchased this gun at a pawn shop so I'm not sure if this gun as been refinished or if this is the way it came from the armory. The outside of the barrel looks like a barrel on a brand new gun but the wood has some scratches that have been covered up with a newer finish.
Serial number check
481xxx
Swede Mausers are my thing....
The only other markings I see are the letters "HK" in front of the serial number and Carl Gustafs Stads Gevarsfaktori 1920 on the chamber behind the rear sights.
Better get the blank firing adapter off of there and into a drawer someplace.
Will do as soon as the thread protector arrives.
Appreciate your help.
Best,
Chuck
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Float Pilot
Member
The bore diameter was exactly 6.50mm. the barrel condition was a #1 which is just slightly less than brand new perfect. and it need no additional adjustment when using the newer 1941 ammo.
During 1920 there were 8,229 rifles made by CG. Not that many... It makes yours very desirable.
H.K. is the initials of the inspector: Helge Gustaf Ludvig Kolthoff
He was inspecting rifles at CG from 1 Apr 1912 - 28 Feb 1923.
The marks on the stock wrist will look like little crowns, maybe with a C, or an S, or a CB.
The Swedes rebuilt and maintained these rifles up until the 1980 or 90s in some cases.
The blank adapter threaded barrel was installed in the 1950s, but may have been replaced again latter.
Are all your numbers matching?
During 1920 there were 8,229 rifles made by CG. Not that many... It makes yours very desirable.
H.K. is the initials of the inspector: Helge Gustaf Ludvig Kolthoff
He was inspecting rifles at CG from 1 Apr 1912 - 28 Feb 1923.
The marks on the stock wrist will look like little crowns, maybe with a C, or an S, or a CB.
The Swedes rebuilt and maintained these rifles up until the 1980 or 90s in some cases.
The blank adapter threaded barrel was installed in the 1950s, but may have been replaced again latter.
Are all your numbers matching?
Wow! That's a lot of information about this gun from the little I was able to provide. All of the numbers match. There appear to be two small crowns on the stock wrist but I can't make out the letters (they've been filled with shellac or whatever finish material was used on this gun). Thanks again, you've been extremely helpful.
Float Pilot
Member
We need better photos...
All matching has me all hot and bothered
All matching has me all hot and bothered
The only number that doesn't match is the one on the bayonet. I also understand there is supposed to be a number on the trigger guard but I'm not sure where it is supposed to be located. Is it under the magazine plate? I've taken several photos but not sure how to post more than 2 at a time.
Parker51
www.swisherpens.com
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Float Pilot
Member
Sorry it took me so long to respond, I was having multiple orgasms from looking at your photos. The stock is in pretty good shape other than the little boo-boo. See how the wood sticks out past the metal around the butt-plate and on the action tangs, that is how it is supposed to look.
The trigger guard / magazine box number is hidden and only to be seen when it is removed from the stock. There is another serial number on the barrel inside the stock and probably armory stamps from when it was re-barreled in the 1950s. There is also a serial number inside the barrel channel of the stock and also another inside the upper hand-guard.
Oh I almost forgot to mention that the FIRING PIN is also serial numbered.
You are hereby invited to come over to the Swede Military Rifle Collectors site:
http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?49-Swedish-Military-Firearms-Forum
You need to post your find over there with people who live for this sort of thing.
Did you get a good price?
The trigger guard / magazine box number is hidden and only to be seen when it is removed from the stock. There is another serial number on the barrel inside the stock and probably armory stamps from when it was re-barreled in the 1950s. There is also a serial number inside the barrel channel of the stock and also another inside the upper hand-guard.
Oh I almost forgot to mention that the FIRING PIN is also serial numbered.
You are hereby invited to come over to the Swede Military Rifle Collectors site:
http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?49-Swedish-Military-Firearms-Forum
You need to post your find over there with people who live for this sort of thing.
Did you get a good price?
I'll check on these as soon as I have a chance to remove the stock.
Thank you, I visited this board and it looks like a great place for information on these guns.
A good price, but probably not a great one. I paid $400.00, it was price tag on it for $450.00. I've bought a few guns from this store so the owner gave me a what I felt was a good deal on this gun. Fortunately, I have a C&R so I didn't have to pay the $35.00 transfer fee. I have looked at ones that were really beat up and they were asking $250 to $300, so I figured if I am only going to own one or two, that I might as well get one that looks good. Most of my C&R are Swiss, but I think this Swede will fit in quite nicely.
I took her to the range yesterday and found that the front sight is too low for 100 yds. I need to try to locate a taller front sight if I am going to shoot this without a scope. I tried her on some metal targets and hit 3 out 5 from the 200 yd line. I also found the front sight had been bumped (or deliberately) moved way over to the right and until I moved it back to center it was hitting way to the left on the target at 100 yds. The best group I had was approximately 6 inches, but I'm sure that was me and PMC ammo and not the gun. I really won't be able to tell what she can do until I put a scope on her.
Thanks again!
Best,
Chuck
www.swisherpens.com
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Nice looking rifle, btw.
That reminds me that I need to get good pics of my pair of Swede Mauser 96's. The all matching rifle I got from Ellisons about 10 years or so ago (maybe longer?). Gorgeous rifle and probably the most accurate rifle I own.
The second rifle come from a big mil-surp sale at Old Town Station. By the time I called to order everything I wanted was gone, except for this one Swedish Mauser. They said it was "mismatche" which probably why it hadn't sold. I figured for $90 I'd take a chance. Turns out the only thing not matching are the barrel bands! The really neat thing is it has "boxed SA" Finnish army markings. Don't see that very often in a Swede.
That reminds me that I need to get good pics of my pair of Swede Mauser 96's. The all matching rifle I got from Ellisons about 10 years or so ago (maybe longer?). Gorgeous rifle and probably the most accurate rifle I own.
The second rifle come from a big mil-surp sale at Old Town Station. By the time I called to order everything I wanted was gone, except for this one Swedish Mauser. They said it was "mismatche" which probably why it hadn't sold. I figured for $90 I'd take a chance. Turns out the only thing not matching are the barrel bands! The really neat thing is it has "boxed SA" Finnish army markings. Don't see that very often in a Swede.
Float Pilot
Member
Parker,
The Swedes originally had them dead-on zeroed at 300 meters with their military ammo.
For 100 yards they would just aim at the enemy's belt buckle and get a chest hit.
Taller front sights are easy to find. The guys on the Swede collector site sell them from time to time if you ask.
I have taller front sight blades on two of mine and they are now zeroed for 100 yards IF I use a 6 o'clock hold on certain size targets.
I have also had to drift the sights on a couple of mine. One I really had to drift a long ways over. It turned out that the stock was warping a little with age and there was a tiny bit of pressure on one side of the barrel. After I relieved that spot the groups moved back over by about 6 inches at 100 yards.
PMC ammo is not so swell. The brass is undersized and the primer pocket flash holes are not uniform. (But it is better than IGMANN which is horrible) Swede military ammo is still available for you folks living in the lower 48. Plus you can find Privi made ammo down there as well.
Of course hand-loading is the best way to win a shooting match with your Swede.
Lapua Brass is the way to go. It is the correct size and it last much longer than any other brass. So the initial high price of around $65 per hundred is not so bad once you realize that you can load it 8-10 times.
If you only shoot factory ammo, while the US made stuff is also slightly undersized, the Federal hunting ammo is actually very accurate ...
The Swedes originally had them dead-on zeroed at 300 meters with their military ammo.
For 100 yards they would just aim at the enemy's belt buckle and get a chest hit.
Taller front sights are easy to find. The guys on the Swede collector site sell them from time to time if you ask.
I have taller front sight blades on two of mine and they are now zeroed for 100 yards IF I use a 6 o'clock hold on certain size targets.
I have also had to drift the sights on a couple of mine. One I really had to drift a long ways over. It turned out that the stock was warping a little with age and there was a tiny bit of pressure on one side of the barrel. After I relieved that spot the groups moved back over by about 6 inches at 100 yards.
PMC ammo is not so swell. The brass is undersized and the primer pocket flash holes are not uniform. (But it is better than IGMANN which is horrible) Swede military ammo is still available for you folks living in the lower 48. Plus you can find Privi made ammo down there as well.
Of course hand-loading is the best way to win a shooting match with your Swede.
Lapua Brass is the way to go. It is the correct size and it last much longer than any other brass. So the initial high price of around $65 per hundred is not so bad once you realize that you can load it 8-10 times.
If you only shoot factory ammo, while the US made stuff is also slightly undersized, the Federal hunting ammo is actually very accurate ...
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