Swedish Mauser 38 information check

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holmegaard

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Local shop has one in pretty good condition. Took note of the markings & configuration, then did a little research to see exactly what it is. What I saw on the rifle, and what I think I know about it:

* Receiver marked WAFFENFABRIK MAUSER OBERNDORF 1899
* Serial 29935 (all match except floor plate)
* Disc has arrow indentation near the "1" on smallest section
* Disc marked "1 Str" on the next largest section
* Disc has arrow indentation in between the "7" on top row, "9" on bottom row of numbers, in the largest section. Unable to determine which number it was actually pointing at.

- made in Germany 1899, started life as a 96, rearsenaled to 38 specifications (no 38's made in 1899 or at Oberndorf)
- pretty good barrel last time it was inspected ("1" on smallest section of disc)
- "1 Str" references point of aim vs point of impact; unsure what the "1" indicates in that regard
- "7" or "9" on largest section of disc references bore measurement at last inspection; unsure what the number indicates in that regard
- wood has really nice figure in the grain, which doesn't seem typical for beech (at least the beech stocks I've seen), but I don't think it's walnut

Know just enough to be dangerous about the Swede rifles, would appreciate any insight you can lend (or corrections to my assumptions).

Rifle is really calling to me, but want to have my ducks in a row before haggling with the owner (gut tells me it's at least moderately overpriced).
 
they are good rifles,i have several and like them. pictures would realy help to give any insights that would be helpful. eastbank.
 
For all things Swedish Mauser, look up a guy called the Dutchman http://dutchman.rebooty.com/
The Northcape book is also pretty good about specifics (see Kehaya, Steve and Poyer, Joe, The Swedish Mauser Rifles 2011).

A few generalities, the Oberndorf receivers are more rare than the Gustafs and probably relatively few were converted to 96/38 configurations which should have a straight bolt btw. The Swedes stamped most parts including the interior of the stock barrel bedding and handguard with partial serial numbers. Matching brings a premium price. Micrometer sights may or may not bring a premium but the Swedes made some fine ones. Importer stamps usually means that the rifle came into the country after 1968 GCA was passed. Make sure that you use the proper headspace gauges for this rifle as the SAAMI gages are not the same as the military ones that the Swede's used. Given the expense of these gages, it is generally acceptable to take a chamber cast if you really want to know what the headspace is for the rifle.

One thing about the Swedes--with a military barrel (should have a crown stamp as do many other parts), it will have a very long throat compared with today's rifles and the Swedes issued a multiplicity of front sights with different numbers representing differing heights on the front sight depending on the ammo and length of barrel for sighting in at different ranges. A few people buy a tall front sight if you want to zero it at 100 yards (Sarco and Numrich both have them from time to time). There are also different sight ladders depending on the model so if unmatched, make sure that your sight ladder fits the ammo that you are trying to fire. Prvi Partisan makes some pretty good ammo and brass for it and of course Norma etc. do as well. The 38 model is the just right model for me--have restored ones of each type but the 38 with a new old stock barrel is the one that I like best.

Swedes compared with other countries' surplus tend to have been kept up well but may have more wear from actual use.

Hope this helps. Good luck on your decision.
 
Thank you for the replies! Guy at the shop let me get some photos, hope these help.
 

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very,very nice over all rifle, if the bore follows the disk it should be ex. it looks like it has had the muzzle threaded for the blank firing attachment(arsenal job). i would not kick it out of bed. eastbank.
 
Still need to get a good look at the bore. The disc is in really good shape... maybe too good? Have read that they're available online stamped any way you want.
 
holmegaard

Looks to be in great shape (thanks in no small part to your excellent photos)! Hope the bore checks out as good as the rest of the rifle appears to be in. Let us know if you decide to get it.
 
Getting a little more educated on these as I go. Two serial numbers I haven't checked are the stock & handguard. Didn't seem... polite, to ask if I could take the whole thing apart :).
Thinking it's not the original wood. Read that Oberndorf rifles were all stocked with walnut, & this doesn't look like walnut to me. Thinking beech, since it seems to be the most common wood used on the Swedes. Attractive nonetheless.
If the bore looks good, the negotiations will start. They'll have to do better than what the tag says- it's in the ballpark of a brand new CZ 550 FS.
 
Here's hoping the negotiations go well and that your Swedish Mauser checks out okay and is soon in your possession.
 
when it was converted they may have replaced the stock at the arsenal. i have a CZ 550 american in 6.5x55, a ex rifle indeed. eastbank.
 

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Another good reference on Swedish military rifles is Doug Bowser's "Neutrality Through Marksmanship"

http://www.gunshowbooks.com/cgi-bin/webc.exe/st_prod.html?p_prodid=GS150629

- "7" or "9" on largest section of disc references bore measurement at last inspection; unsure what the number indicates in that regard

That section of the disk shows the bore diameter. I think the triangle is supposed to be under the number it indicates. Therefore the bore was gaged at 6.57 mm. There is another triangle over the 6.5 row which seems to agree with that interpretation.

That's a beautiful rifle. Buy it!
 
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Still staring at the photo of the disk. Trust me, I'm just guessing. Maybe the triangle over the 6.51 means the bore was 6.51 mm. That sounds more reasonable for a 1 in the bore condition section. Don't know what the "7" means. Now I have to go look at mine again.
 
Thinking out loud... maybe the measurement is guaged in the throat/leade? If well cared for, the rifling could be clean, but the throat showing some erosion from many rounds fired?
 
Your disk tells us the following:

Your barrel at time of marking was in condition 1, showing some signs of darkening. Condition 0 meant pristine. At condition 4, it would be replaced

At marking, the bore at the throat measured 6.49 mm, indicating an original 1899 barrel, as the early Mauser's were manufactured to a 6.46mm lower end spec and the later to a 6.51mm spec.

The rifle was recalibrated to the 140 grs Spitzer cartridge (Torped) and the hold under or over for that rifle's sights are 10cm (or 1 decimeter/"Streck") per 100 meters. In other words, you will have to shoot it and see whether it's a 6 o'clock at 10 cm and 100 m hold or a 12 o'clock at same.

6.49mm throat and a No. 1 condition (at marking) indicates a barrel in good condition at the time of marking. Provided there is no obvious rust or pitting, even if the throat has eroded to 6.51 or beyond subsequently, you are on a winner.

How to Read Swedish Mauser condition disks:

http://candrsenal.com/tip-how-to-read-swedish-mauser-stock-disks/
 
I had one, my brother had one and my dad. We would go out most weekends to the range and each fire a100+ rounds in an afternoon. Mom would make dinner and after we would reload for next week. Low recoil from the 6.5X55 made it enjoyable. Spot on with open sights and a mild hand load, brass lasted for ever. Enjoy!!
 
Good rifle.

I'm not real up on the markings - other than the obvious - but the converted rifles M96 to M38 were originally intended to fire the original 160 grain bullets at 2380 fps (numbers converted from metric) from the 29.1 inch long barrel. Since the M38 has a 24 inch barrel, some velocity loss is expected.

In 1941, the Swedes developed the M41 round; the same case with a 140 grain spitzer bullet at 2519 fps (in the 24" barrel).

One can get much better velocities than the WWI loading with modern powders. I would expect the same for the WWII loading. (IMR or H) 4350 or H 4831 give good velocities; probably greater than the military 'official' velocities. H380 does pretty well.

If you don't plan on shooting this rifle, never mind.
 
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