Switching to short trigger on 1911
- Thread starter Gtac
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Is this a "play" gun or is this a self-defense firearm? How mechanical are you?
While it is a relatively simple procedure, I'd recommend that you have a good smith do this for you to make sure that nothing goes wrong. The trigger is the only moving part that you actively engage in order to fire the pistol, -you don't want to mess up that during an emergency.
Since replacement triggers are made oversized, they will need to be stoned along the front, top & bottom of the trigger, also you need to know how to check & set the bow & body for tightness, AND very importantly, you need to make sure that the rear engagement surface is properly set to meet the grip safety/ignition group.
If you do use a smith to fit the trigger, you may as well have him do a complete trigger job with upgraded sear & disconnector to match. This is sometimes called a "reliability package".
Or, maybe all you need to do is to replace your standard grips with slim grips.
While it is a relatively simple procedure, I'd recommend that you have a good smith do this for you to make sure that nothing goes wrong. The trigger is the only moving part that you actively engage in order to fire the pistol, -you don't want to mess up that during an emergency.
Since replacement triggers are made oversized, they will need to be stoned along the front, top & bottom of the trigger, also you need to know how to check & set the bow & body for tightness, AND very importantly, you need to make sure that the rear engagement surface is properly set to meet the grip safety/ignition group.
If you do use a smith to fit the trigger, you may as well have him do a complete trigger job with upgraded sear & disconnector to match. This is sometimes called a "reliability package".
Or, maybe all you need to do is to replace your standard grips with slim grips.
Thanks for the reply. That's about what I figured.
It's really a "play" gun right now, but it could become my primary house gun if I ever work with it enough to become confident with it. Changing the trigger is an important preliminary step.
Can anyone recommend a good 1911 smith in the Baltimore area?
It's really a "play" gun right now, but it could become my primary house gun if I ever work with it enough to become confident with it. Changing the trigger is an important preliminary step.
Can anyone recommend a good 1911 smith in the Baltimore area?
XavierBreath
Member
Read through these instructions and decide for yourself if you are up to the task.
Trigger sources include:
Brownells
CDNN
Chip McCormick
Midway USA
Numrich
among others.
Short triggers can be hard to find sometimes. The GI trigger is available from Numrich. Your gunsmith might have a short takeoff trigger from a Mil-Spec or GI45 that he would part with for a few bucks.
Trigger sources include:
Brownells
CDNN
Chip McCormick
Midway USA
Numrich
among others.
Short triggers can be hard to find sometimes. The GI trigger is available from Numrich. Your gunsmith might have a short takeoff trigger from a Mil-Spec or GI45 that he would part with for a few bucks.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Call Springfield and order a replacement trigger for the GI Mil-Spec. Best chance of a drop-in. Chance...
MICHAEL T
Member
Their are directions on the 1911 fourms. Check around .If you can strip a frame all the way and reassemble you can do a trigger. Will need a good file and to take your time.
SoCalShooter
Member
Its not real difficult, but get a schematic for the 1911 and you should be a ble to do it...but you will probably need to work the trigger a little.
ClarkEMyers
Member
You can fit it yourself - but distinguish between fitting a trigger and remove and replace for a trigger.
As properly and most importantly noted above:
The pad is where most of the fitting takes place but notice that the rear of the bow can when things go awry lift the three finger sear spring and that can result in a failure to reset and that can result in a runaway or full auto experience. Notice also that some off spec beavertails will not stop the trigger and it's best to use a setscrew on the magazine release. Some triggers will have tabs that can be set to limit forward travel. Not the best idea to try to reduce freeplay and overtravel to zero - that won't work and brings along problems in the attempt.
As properly and most importantly noted above:
The pad is where most of the fitting takes place but notice that the rear of the bow can when things go awry lift the three finger sear spring and that can result in a failure to reset and that can result in a runaway or full auto experience. Notice also that some off spec beavertails will not stop the trigger and it's best to use a setscrew on the magazine release. Some triggers will have tabs that can be set to limit forward travel. Not the best idea to try to reduce freeplay and overtravel to zero - that won't work and brings along problems in the attempt.
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